I inherited this 1916. Looking for more info
 

I am not familiar with the luger. I am looking for more info like what do all the markings mean and what is its value. Looking for value for insurance reasons.

Close up of the markings

Matching numbers as far as I can tell with out taking it apart.

Robert, welcome to the forum. To help us, give us more information, suffix on front of frame, marking on toggle, etc.


Although I can guess the toggle is marked DWM and was made in 1916.
Is it 9mm or 30 luger? originally it would have been 9mm, and at some point it was sent to the USA receiving the "germany" export marking (a requirement of the USA, so could also be considered a import marking, except it was applied before coming over here).


Ed

Robert,
* It also does not look like it is assembled correctly. It would be dangerous to be discharged in its present condition.
* As a guess it does not look like the toggle's internal hook is properly engaged to the main spring's "U" shaped link.
* Disassembly/reassembly instruction are available in the Tech Info section of this site. A video is aslo available; but, I have not saved the URL.
* A gunsmith familiar with Lugers could reassemble properly in less than a minute unless broken/missing parts are involved.
* Nice looking piece. If all matching numbers, this condition should bring at least $1k (Insurance purposes).
* Trust this helps.:cheers:

It is a 9mm and the toggle is marked DWM.
The magazine serial numbers do not match.

I never had it apart and I donâ??t intend to shoot it. I looked at the diagram but I am not able to tell what is wrong on assembling. It is "Loose" The toggle will move easily. Can you point me in the right direction on how to assemble correctly?


The suffix is i. see photo

top photo

http://www.lugerforum.com/

look to your left, there is directions of taking a luger apart



ed

I met the same problem when I handled a Parabellum the first time. The T shape hook must go under the U shapped opening in the back of the frame. Otherwise, the gun can still be assembled, but the receiver just slides back and forth freely on the top.

Robert,
* Fellow member "Shadow" has provided "how to" video's on his YouTube site. Hardly likely you would have to go to the detail level of disassembly shown to rectify your pistol's malady.

* Assembly/Disassembly: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2Mra...eature=related

* Assembly after a basic field strip for cleaning: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBP0R...eature=related

Mr Tac,
* Would be that I allowed an unknown gunsmith the latitude to re-engage the toggle hook in a mear few seconds. Then, spend nearly the balance of the minute explaining why it cost $20.
* That is how long it takes to explain "Been there; done that" I trust.

Respectfully,
Bob

I once bought a "broken" 1900 Luger quite cheaply, only to find out after I bought it that it was improperly assembled. That was a loooong time ago and I only suspected that it wasn't broken when I bought it.

I recommend the Shadowdog videos! I am really new to this having not been around guns since I was a kid, about 30 years ago...I had my luger stripped in about 2-minutes. I had a newer magazine that wouldn't hold open the action. I needed to push the barrel back to disengage the take down lever.

This is a better dissassembly video from shadowdog. You don't need to remove the trigger to field strip the receiver and breachblock. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SD9hq...eature=related

Kurt

Tac, some folks simply pull back on the toggles with an empty magazine inserted to let the hold open lock them back, which in turn, as you know, lets the take-down lever free. I suspect this may be some sort of 'primary' way he was thinking of doing it, but the pistol having no hold open forced him to do the 'push down the barrel trick'. Nothing wrong with doing it this way, by the way, kpolak. I believe that way is actually the 'standard' practice, as some lugers dont have hold opens from factory?

I found that when I opened the action, and it stayed held open by the clip, the take down lever would disengage. If it wouldn't stay open (like with a newer clip) I needed to push the barrel back to get it to disengage. Should I look into something? Should I need to push the barrel back all the time?

Kurt

Tac, your way makes sense to me...

If I understand correctly, place top of hand above action, and thumb around rear of luger at indented area at top of grip, and squeeze.

Great tip!

Kurt

No need for apologies Tac, i am aware of the correct, and safe way to clear pistols, and of course, ALWAYS practice such actions, was just pointing out that 'some folks' do prefer to do it that way. Perhaps it may have sounded, or come across a little 'vague' on a primarily public forum, just adding to the discussion is all :cheers:

So what does the markings mean and the suffix i? Is this a Collector or a shooter?

Tac, Went,

I appreciate the information on the safe handling. Being very new, especially to the Lugers, I was basing my handling information on the shadowdog video on field stripping that bore the Lugerforum patch at the beginning.

Reinstalling a magazine after confirming the luger was indeed clear, did seem a bit odd to me. I appreciate your candor.

Kurt

cmott426,

The markings (proof marks) deliniate:
German military receiver proof. Found on DWM Lugers 1914-1918.

Proof marks can be found in the technical information section of the forum.

Kurt

From the pictures that you posted, the finish looks at least original to the era (1920? might be refurbished before exporting? you may check "GERMANY" under a loupe for the halo effect). If it's also all-matching except the magazine, it's a conventional "collectible". I have seen quite a few people shooting collectibles though. Some spend more $$ to replace fragile small parts before shooting, some don't bother doing that. That's up to the owner.