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How to reblue... ?
Hi,
I recently purchased a refinished early luger. The rebluing was, obviously, done over the original finish without any attempt at removing the original blue. This is quite evident by the two tone coloring on the gun... My question, to those who have had more experience than I, is how do you remove the original bluing without pitting the gun in any way, and what is the best commercially available rust bluing solution for redoing Lugers? Thanks, Frank |
Earth to Frank...
![]() C'mon Frank, that's like asking a prize-winning chef for his world class "Duck L'Orange" recipe!!!
I once asked a person who I had good reason to suspect had Mafia connections, if all the stuff we heard about the Mafia was true... he replied: Those that know, dont tell... and those that tell... don't know!!! Good Luck. Dok |
Whadya Wand ...
(EOM) |
ouch.....
who would want to eat an orange duck?
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Or any Duck for that matter !
(EOM) |
Re: Or any Duck for that matter !
![]() It's not all it's "quacked" up to be!
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Re: How to reblue... ?
Brownells sells a rust and blue remover. Muriatic acid diluted with water works too. With both of these the parts are left in the remover just long enough to remove the blue and rust.
Bead blasting is another and maybe better way. Brownells also sells "Pilkingtons Classic American Rust Blue" 4oz. for $17. I've used the Pilkingtons to rust blue a few Lugers. It's not difficult but does take time and must be done correctly for best results. Craig |
Re: thanks Craig...
I have seen the Brownells ad, but have never seen the results of a reblue done with that product, Is it comperable to the original finish in terms of color and depth... yours Frank
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Re: thanks Craig...
I'd better say I don't know. The 1913 DWM I once owned was quite "blue" in color, bluer than these Pilkington projects.
The Pilkingtons luger is bluer than the Russian dip blued I got from AIM. Craig |
Again Craig, Thank you... (EOM)
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