1938 S/42 98% with STIFF TD-lever? (pics)
 

I just privately bought a 1938 Mauser that is very clean, matched mag, great E/M holster and wonderful price... Before I bought it, I tried to field strip the gun and the TD lever was VERY stiff and I couldn't flip it. The seller wanted to use a penny (ouch) and I knew the gun was right so I bought it as-is w/o trying the "penny trick".

After some Kroil, the lever released reluctantly and I find it as expected... matched to the firing pin and grips are numbered too. It's simply a magnificent machine and is well preserved despite being stored in that Navy holster for years.

My real question surrounds the TD lever being soooo stiff. Even with the sideplate off it's stiff and tighter as it goes back over the side plate.

Any ideas... and thanks for any comments

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Place the end of the barrel against the palm of your hand or other object so that the cannon moves back a bit and then try turning the td lever. Sometimes this helps.

Hi Steve- Yep, that's the way I take them down to release the tension initially... Still tough...

Hi,

Judging from the photo the lever sticks out quite a bit on one side of the pistol. I guess that either the lever or the small lever spring is damaged, which allows the lever to move too far to one side, thus blocking normal operation.

With the gun dismantled, you can pull out the takedown lever, when it's in downwards position. Examine the lever and the little L-shaped spring.

Perhaps someone installed a home-made spring...

Okay, what's the trick to getting the lever back in once it's out? Thanks

Bob, that's a real beauty.

Let us know what the deal with the lever was...

Do a search on takedown lever spring.. there has been a recent discussion on this...

Thanks, John !

Bob
Would like to see photographs of the KM holster that this Luger came in. Reported 1938 dated Lugers near the serial number 9431i are mostly KM marked. I would speculate that your luger may have been one of those procured by the Kreigsmarine but not KM marked. More information in the link below.

PART 2/2. S/42-1938 LUGER, WITH ACCESSORIES Jan C Still http://luger.gunboards.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7289

You made an outstanding find.
Jan

Thanks Jan for the encouragement... I was wondering the same as I also bought a Navy Mod34 from the same gent and also looked in your book re: 1938 KM lugers and was wishing it had been KM marked as I saw the trend.

Here's a link to the Luger holster...

http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthre...threadid=14999

There is damage to your frame in this area as shown by one of your photos... I will bet the frame was dropped with the takedown lever removed at some point in the gun's life... the hole is no longer perfectly round and causes binding on the shaft of the takedown lever when you turn it. The only cure would be the VERY JUDICIOUS removal of the metal where the parts are rubbing each other...

http://forum.lugerforum.com/lfupload/lug38_02a.jpg

Thanks John... great eyes! From the pic it certainly would appear you are correct. I better dig it back out and take another look about...

OR maybe just leave it alone and either live with it or it will eventually in many turns and twists, wear the hole round again. Neat observation as to why this lever would be hard to turn (or twist).

'" That's some eye you have John"

Sometimes it takes a long time for compliments to roll in, huh, John! ;)

Anyway, nice to see this thread and I learned something new. And I'll agree, great eye!

Having the TD lever out makes sence.. can't imagine the luger landing on that area with the barrel attached.

From the front picture it is possible to see some grooves in the damaged area.. I guess that is another little part of the puzzle.

It's a nice Luger Bob, congratulations with it!

Is it possible that the hole was out of round originally and someone tapped the frame to try to make the hole concentric?

Bob et al, For lowering of the TD lever to insure that the receiver is out of battery, I find it easiest to have the toggle held open, before trying to lower lever. Even then, I may have to resort to a custom made tool that pushes down on the shank of the lever, rather than the checkered circular part that have been known to snap off. Reinstalling is best down with the barrelled reciever removed, so that as your pushing it in from the left side, you can push down on the right side, against the spring pressure, to aline it with the hole in the frame. If a new TDL spring is required, I do have DDR originals @$25 each. TH

Looking closely at the take down lever knurled knob it seems to possibly have a slightly dented area on the bottom of the knurl also. May have been in the unlocked position and dropped causing the damage to the frame and maybe the take down button. Would need a better pic of the bottom of the button to be sure.
:confused:

Perhaps the TD lever was not snaped completly in place, but sticking out a little on the impact. If completly in, I don't think the frame would bend like that.
..what type of floor was it in the shop you bought it? Concrete or wood/carpet? ;)


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