Soaking a Luger in Solvent
 

I've been considering removing the non-metallic parts from my P-08 and soaking the whole thing in Hoppes solvent. Is it a wise idea to leave it sit for a while in a pool of it, or should I just use it to wipe down the Luger?

I've done the process to parts on my SKS and the results were solid, but I wasn't sure about using the same process on this specific firearm.

Marhaben,
I don't think that soaking the metallic parts would hurt anything. I have soaked some of mine in Kroil penetrating oil for over a week. The results have been very good. Just make sure that the frame has completely drained before replaceing the wooden grips.
Bill

Thanks.

Would kerosense or another like substance also work?

I would think that kerosene should be OK also. Of course you would have to be careful because of the fire hazard. You might want to check out this sight for a do it yourself cleaner lubricant:http://www.building-tux.com/dsmjd/tech/eds_red.htm The famous Ed's Red.
Bill

I use in my shop a 50/50 Hoppes and paint thinner.....outdoors and covered of course....you can let it soak for years.....

In the service we used Break Free. It came in 5gal pails,and we soaked about everything we had to clean in that stuff. Good results too.

Is there anything I have to worry about as far as removing the bluing or otherwise aesthetically harming it?

I've used carburator cleaner, brake cleaner/solvent, laquer thinner, acetone and just about anything else that was handy on Lugers and haven't hurt one yet. I don't think you can harm one unless you actually use a bluing remover.

Do not use steel wool, no matter what someone may say it will harm the blue finish, get a "Big .45" cleaning pad from Brownells......

Howard,

Amen to the no-steel-wool. Your "Big 45" comment has prompted me to finally post the review which has been simmering in the back of my mind of this product, its at http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthre...threadid=14113

--Dwight

Well I am someone! Of course I only have a mear 45 years experience in cleaning fine firearms and Lugers among other Luger work. I have used 0000 grade steel wool for 40 years and have not harmed a gun yet. It would take a while but I expect I could locate quite a number of talented gunsmiths that use steel wool also. I know of at least 3 members of this forum that have used it a long time. The key word here is 0000 grade----4 OUGHT!!! Certainly the course stuff will remove blue but not the -----4 OUGHT. It will even clean rust from straw with out harm. Steelwool already has a bit of oil in it to prevent rust. I sometimes add more oil. Guess who stocks 0000? --- Wal Mart. More than 45 years ago an old gunsmith showed me another way to remove mild frost from blue with out harm to the blue. A piece of brown paper sack and gun oil. It works!! So you new guys use what you feel comfortable with-----I just suggest that you don't let the armchair speculators talk you out of a good thing.

I agree with Art. I have been using 0000 steel wool and WD40 for 40 years and haven't harmed the finish on a gun yet. For the past 15 yrs I've been using a product named RB17 with 0000 steel wool, it is amazing what this combination will do in turning "browned" bluing back to "blue". :thumbsup:

Wal-mart also stocks toilet bowl cleaner.....armchair? 30 years of owning a gun smith business....I do not care about you or any other member who may use steel wool, steel wool is not as current/up to date designed blue steel cleaning as this pad....wake up

Easy guys... opinions are like... well "elbows"... everybody has one... speak your minds, of course, but no need to get down on each other for a difference of opinion...

Hi Guys,
Any place else to buy 0000 steel wool Beside [ WAL- MART ]
Alex

Ace Hardware. Where I buy my four-ought. I also use bronze wool some. REAL soft.

I have seen the Big .45 in use and it appears to work well. It or an item like it has been around a while. Looks like a Chor-Girl skillet scouring pad. I believe these were made out of magnesium I was told. You would see guys using them on their guns at gunshows before they put them out on the tables.

I agree with the above comments when it applies to rust blued lugers, but even then if removing a spot of rust, you may leave an unfinished spot that should be kept well oiled to prevent future corosion. DO NOT use any abrasive including 0000 steel wool on hot dipped (post mid 1937) guns or you will regret it. TH

I think the Big .45 pad may contain nickle-silver......I just know that applying hand pressure to scrub away rust/fouling/crud and crap is no problem, scrub away...it is not an abrasive pad.

Tried a can of Break Free "Powder Blast" today to clean an 80 year old Luger that had grease so caked-on that it looked like varnish in places. The gun was so bound-up with dried gunk and grime that the action would hardly work.

I cleaned the entire gun (grips and magazine off and out) with this product, and I was amazed at the ease with which the caked-on material disappeared. The gun was left so oil and grease free that I was afraid rust would start in the exposed areas, so I immediately flushed the gun with Break Free CLR.

This Luger now looks like a different gun.

Luke

Years ago, I did use 0000 steel wool, but I currently use 0000 bronze wool, with gun oil applied and LIGHTLY rub to remove any rust spots. Yes, it may leave a spot, but you have to stop the rust. I agree that any abrasive used should be last resort. As Tom stated, a spot will probably be left.

Edit - I almost forgot..... I have been using BLue Wonder Cleaner to remove rust spots lately. I have not tried this on a Luger yet, so no experience there. I place a small amount on a pice of cloth and rub lightly. it works great. Any of you guys have any experience with BLue Wonder?