Live Round " Stove Pipping "
 

:confused:

I've tried the following ;

5.0 IMR7625 124FMJ ( 3 per mag ) 1100 ft/sec

5.4 Win SF 124 FMJ ( 1 per mag ) 1091 ft/sec

5.2 Win 231 124 FMJ ( 2 per mag ) 1093 ft/sec

Are my reloads too hot ? Guessing too fast of bolt speed .

Win , Fed, & Rem bulk will work ( 115 FMJ @ 1025 ft/sec ) .

Maybe I should put in a new recoil spring ( 1918 Erfurt ) .

Any help or reload data will be appreciated .

TNX glenhwhittenberg@aol.com :surr:

Why don't you just shoot the bulk loads that work, or load your own to the same specs? Your hotter loads don't give you much more velocity. I don't think you're looking for knock down power from your Luger, so what's wrong with the 115 gr. bullet? I'm just saying.....

Neil

+1
If you are like most Luger owners, the only thing the gun needs to do is to fire reliably when you are plinking or target shooting.

Why insist that it perform with multiple loads? Find a load that works and roll your own if you are looking to save money.

There could be many things that could give you the results that you are experiencing....but, since these problems don't surface with factory ammo, it has to be your reloads. You didn't give the bullet manufacturer/profile or the OAL. I have found that when I load for my Lugers, I use as long of an OAL as will function reliably in the mags, and pass the "plunk test" in your chamber(upper off of the frame). I believe that your loads are too hot for your springs which may be recoil, mag, and/or firing pin. Chrono the factory loads that are 100% reliable in your Luger, then start low/mid range loadings, and see where you are with muzzle velocity. Lugers are spring and ammo sensitive, and can make a reloader pull his hair out. They are not like loading for a 1911, Glock, Sig, etc. Don't give up, just step back....take a deep breath....and begin at the beginning.

There are a couple of things to look into relating to the stove pipes you're experiencing.

One, as mentioned, is the condition of the recoil spring. Wolff makes a range of springs available. The different eras of Lugers and different calibers have various spring turn counts, and condition does matter.

Second, consider your grip and support of the Luger. Consistency here is essential, as well as a good mass to recoil against.

Finally, consider the condition of the magazine and it's follower spring. G.T. on this board does restoration, rebuild and tuning. I personally wouldn't disassemble one without the special tools he uses.

Marc

1918 Erfurt ..You do not mention the type of magazine you are using.

The feed lips could be too wide...When the pistol recoils loose lips can let a live cartridge slip out and up..causing a live stovepipe. I would try a MecGar.

This is not the weapon I would be experimenting with.

Hi:

Your problem is quite easy to solve.

What year is your pistol?

Do you have any reason to believe that your springs are worn out or replaced? If so, your Luger will never function properly.

If you search my name, you will find a thread on how to assure your OAL is correct for the bullet type and brand you are handloading. OAL is vital for proper function of a fully loaded 8 round magazine.

Also under my name are two or three additonal threads (or comments on other's threads) on specific handloads that function perfectly and are highly accurate in the Luger. The powders you are using are too fast. Try SR 4756 and Power Pistol for FMJ bullets and Accurate #5 for lead bullets.

Properly sprung and handloaded, the Luger is a highly accurate and reliable pistol. My DWM 1917 has fired over 3,000 consecutive rounds with not a malfunction!!!

Good luck, and I hope my threads are of help.

Sieger