Mild rounds
 

I know it's a bad idea to shoot Lugers that are all matching due to chance of breaking certain parts but would that risk go down if you were to reload milder than factory rounds? I understand that being an automatic a certain amount of energy is needed inorder for the action to work. i'm pretty sure I know the answer already but just thought I'd ask anyway.
Thanks
Jim

It has been my experience that lugers will not perform correctly with anything less than a "factory" load. The correct solution is to shoot a "shooter."

KFS

Lower powered ammo may not cause the action to work. IIRC, that was a problem with earlier US made ammo. I don't shoot any of my collector grade Lugers, parts that break are tough to replace. If the gun is a "shooter" then it doesn't matter as much.

G2

Hi,

If you are Handloading, here is a very accurate, yet, very mild load for you with a readily available and highly popular powder.

124 Grain, FMJ, Round Nose Bullet

O.A.L. of cartridge 1.69 to 1.173 inches (critical for jam free operation)

3.6 to 3.8 grains of Bulls Eye powder.

This is a nice load that will not overly stress your very fine Parabellum.

I will be very happy to share more proper "Luger Loads" with you upon request.


Good shooting,

Sieger

Hi,

I am sorry to have to disagree with you on this idea, as German Army Pistol ammo had a 123 Grain Bullet traveling at only 1,076 f.p.s. from a standard 100 mm barrel.

Respectfully,


Sieger

I know folks will say you shouldn't shoot your matching P-08. They already have. I shoot mine, without problems, so far. It will depend on the risk you are willing to accept, and mitigate. I reduce the risk of breaking matching parts by replacing them before I go to the range. Typically, the firing pin and extractor. I also mostly shoot WW2 Mauser production guns, as the durability seems to be better, (although once in a while, I will shoot an older DWM gun). That all being said, I try to only use Winchester White box ball. It appears to be the gold standard of commonly available 9mm ammo for use in the Luger pistol.

Under loaded rounds can generate excessive chamber pressures, and damage firearms.

Get a shooter. You'll enjoy it more.

Thanks everyone for the input. I have a couple of Lugers that I won't shoot, and a couple of shooters. I was just wondering about mild loads not only for #'s matching guns but also more for saving wear and tear on my shooters. From what I gather from what everyone posted I won't worry about it for the shooters. Nonshooters were only shot once to verify that they do work, no interest in shooting them beyond that. I will try the load Sieger posted as I have those components.
Thanks All
Jim

Hi JEB

I also am a handloader, with Lugers. None of my Lugers are high dollar collectables, so, basically, they are all shooters to me. I tried to develop "soft" loads for my old Lugers using different bullet weights, and different burn rate powders. I was not able to produce good reliability unless I was willing to change some springs, etc. I was not, so My loads, both 7.65Para, and 9mm are as close to the original velocities as I can get them. My Lugers thank me for that by behaving in a manner that pleases me.


Most all true handloaders have to "try" different combos to achieve a certain end result......some times you accomplish it, and sometimes you don't. Good luck, and enjoy!!

WWI and WWII production pistols were not built for longevity, the steels used were not selected to be still firing about one hundred years later.
I belong to the "don't shoot collectibles school", I'd rather see someone shooting a refinished mixmaster or a Russian capture P08 rather than an all original piece that, that should be preserved for a number of reasons.
IMO.

I'm not sure I follow you, could you explain?
The logic and experience suggest: the more powerful round, the more back pressure[longer barrel, silencer] - the more wear and potential for gun damage, correct?