new guy from ohio
 

good afternoon all... have always been intrigued with lugers, there appears to be a TON of information to be learned here!!
bought a Mitchell luger 20 years ago and never ended up firing it (still new in the box!!).....I thought that was "the real thing", obviously I was mistaken...
guess it's time to dump the Mitchell and buy something that is real!!

Welcome, fellow Ohioan, to the board. First, your Mitchell Luger is every bit a real Luger. However, I would not recommend firing it as the metallurgy and production quality reported in these guns has been...well, lets say not up to snuff.

Secondly, I would recommend that you read up on the FAQ document provided at the top of every page. It has almost all of the basic information you could ask for when getting started and before you buy the books.

Welcome to the forum, Steve. Some consider the Stainless Lugers made in Houston to be collectible in their own right. They are not, of course, without their issues, but if yours is one that functions OK, fits together so that it doesn't rattle when shaken, hasn't had its flat surfaces buffed during its manufacture to be all wavy, and doesn't exhibit galling on the toggle ramps, it is indeed desirable as an example of what it is. NIB ought to realize an amount slightly North of a thousand bucks. If you insist on getting rid of it, I'll bet you could come pretty close to swapping it even up for an original lower level collectible or nice original shooter.

Welcome to the forum.

It may be a good move to pass along your Mitchell Luger and buy an original. I've not been favorably impressed by the Mitchell Lugers I've examined. The fit hasn't been that great.

If your purpose is to shoot an original Luger, then I suggest looking for a shooter.

If collecting is the idea, then I suggest not shooting an all original, matching Luger. One in collectible condition and all matching will lose it's value if a numbered part breaks.

Before jumping into deep waters, learn all you can here and also buy reference books... generally, the newer books have the best and most accurate information. Also beware that there are many fakes out there so being educated BEFORE you invest is a wise move.

Welcome to the forum. Do download the FAQ PDF document:

http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=13121

Lots of good reference information there, and it's free!

Good advice above. Welcome to ,the Forum. Bill

Welcome! Great helpful folks here.

G2

just found a DWM "sneak luger" over on another site...got to do some reading on value, appears to be MOSTLY numbers matching for 1375...

That sounds very high priced to me. Bill

ty sir.

"Mostly matching numbers" is like being a "little bit" pregnant. It's either matched or it isn't. Not much in-between.
dju

apparently numbers matching except no numbers on firing pin, bolt hold open, and grips.

Not uncommon to see those parts replaced, but it probably puts it into the shooter category. Unless there is something special about this one, it sounds like an expensive shooter.
dju

Welcome aboard. Yes, there are a number of true experts on this and the Still's forums and a much larger segment, like me, who are somewhat informed. Strike that "like me" part--I know enough to get into trouble, but I have knowledgeable friends who keep me pointed in the right direction. People here are quite willing to pass on their knowledge.

BTW, the Luger you are looking at isn't even close to be matching.

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to this forum, and my best advice is to go slow, and learn.

Most Weimar era commerical lugers did not number the firing pin, hold open or grips, so may be correct. TH

If you're just starting out collecting Lugers, buy the reference books first. They seem expensive, but you'll save their cost in the first bad deal you avoid.

For what a mismatched Luger priced at $1375 costs you, you could have a correctly priced mismatched Luger (worth $1000) AND the most detailed Luger study that has been published.

There is a lot of information in the FAQ I mentioned earlier, but much more detailed information in the books.

So, go to Luger University first, then buy Lugers. Your experience may vary.