need help stripping a 1912 Erfurt for re-finish
 

I recently picked up a shooter grade 1912 Erfurt P08. It is in good condition metal-wise and is matching. The finish is something I've never seen before. On top of the original rust blue is some kind of epoxy or baked on enamel. I've run some experiments and found the following:
1. Commercial Muriatic acid (not swimming pol stuff)...barely touched it after 3 minute immersion...but took the bare blued areas down nicely to bare metal. I'm afraid of going longer for fear of over etching the metal areas.
2. Lacquer thinner: 24 hour soak...no effect.
3. Acetone: 24 hour soak...no effect.
Attached are some pictures of the frame and barre/receiver. The frame was soaked in Muriatic for 3 min and later in lacquer thinner for 24 hrs...some areas were already worn off from age and handling, but you can see areas of the black junk still remaining.
The barrel/rcvr was only soaked in acetone for 24 hrs. You can see that there was no effect.
So, does anyone have experience with this type of removal...or any suggestions on how to hit it?
My intent is to strip and prep and then send off for re-bluing. Thanks for any inputs.

Hi Steve, just want to welcome you to the forum, we have some very knowledge people on this site and if you will be patient I'm sure you will get the information you are looking for. In the meantime if you use the search feature at the top of this page you may get some ideas there. Good Luck. :cheers:


Lon

I have been struggling with the same thing, and I can't see any other way than blasting it off. Walnut shells may do the trick, but it will probably take glass beads to get it off.

Lysol Toilet Bowl cleaner is great for removing bluing, but I'm not sure it will touch that stuff. You may want to show it to a plating shop to see what they recommend, but be careful about electrical stripping because it could cause hydrogen embrittlement, or some such bad thing...
Radiator repair shops have some pretty good/strong dip tanks.
Have you tried commercial paint stripper, the caustic acid jell. stuff?
dju

thanks to all for the responses...DJU, yes...I forgot that I also bought a can of the thick, goopy paint stripper and "painted" that on and left it for a couple of hours...no luck. I'll pursue some of the other ideas. I want to try to avoid anything that would distort the underlying metal...ie, round off edges and stamps.

Are there any British proof marks on the barrel?
I remember somewhere that some Lugers that made it into British hands for some reason recieved an enamel type finish.

Dave...YES, there are British proof marks on the bottom of the barrel, good catch! This stuff could be enamel, but normal Ace Hdwre paint stripper wouldn't touch it. My undercover assistant (another Forum member) has a line on something called Greensolv 273c used in the aircraft industry and is aimed at epoxy type stripping. We are on a hunt locally at auto paint stores for it or something similar. We are also considering trying to burn it off with a propane torch holding the temperature in the 400 F range. Steve

I would look into and reasearch more deeply on what EXACTLY the Brits applied to these lugers. Enamel can be just a generic term. If and that is a big IF you can find more info into exactly what it is it may be more easier to find what will remove it and it could make it easier for you.
On a side note and I won't harp on it but I will say my piece, that finish was part of the Lugers history, but since you are past that point with the Luger I will add my Good Luck to you in your project and I hope you will keep us posted with the outcome.:)

I am mildly surprised that no one has suggested that your Luger may be a Russian capture/VoPo Luger that was exported to (or more likely through) GB and received the British proofs there. A Search here will reveal instances of a 'tar-like' coating applied to these Lugers, and various methods of removal.

I would go with the crushed walnut shell blasting, or crushed corncobs, as a non-destructive method of removing the coating.

An alternative would be to entrust the Luger refinishing to an established restorer. Gerald Tomek on this forum is highly recommended by many members here for this refinishing. :)

Postino...funny you should mention that...GT is my mole. We live a few miles apart and I'm leaning heavily on him for advice and guidance. We are taking this slowly and trying the least invasive/destructive methods first. Interesting possibility about RC or VOPO connection prior to UK. Clearly more "discovery" is in order.
Dave...Yes, I very much agree with the historical considerations...it is definitely part of the history of this gun. It's a fine line between leaving it as it is and taking it back to the original configuration of just the rust blue finish. If it had been in better condition and more "collectable" instead of just being a shooter that might have been the better option.
I will post our progress. Steve

I had an Erfurt with British proofs. It had been painted black. However this coating came off rather easily with 0000 steel wool and oil. Sounds like, as has been suggested, Russian dipped. On mine after removal of the paint the original finish was intact and in good shape. If anyone can figure it out it is GT. Good luck Bill

Bill...I have some 0000 steel wool so I tried it with CLP...didn't make a dent in the black coating...pretty sure this isn't our "friendly" RC dip. I also went to Sherwin-Williams and bought a can of the toughest stripper they have...called Super Strip. I did a test area on the frame three times for 1/2 hr each time and then wire brushed with a small brass brush with negligible result. I'll consult again with GT and if we can't think of another solvent to try, it may be blasting time. Steve

I don't know if you have already tried this stuff, but if not you might want to give it a try.

Some time back, I need to remove some base coat/clear coat epoxy paint. My regular paint stripper(from Ace) wouldn't even touch it. My friend that does a lot of this kind of thing told me to get:

Klean-strip
Low odor
Aircraft remover

It has a picture of an airplane on the can. It works!! I still had to apply it more than once, and allow quite some time for it to work, but it did strip it off. You MUST wear gloves and be careful with this stuff. I purchased it in an automotive store like Checkers/Auto Zone/etc. but I just don't remember exactly which one. Good luck.

Steve: see MEK . Welcome aboard.

http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthre...&highlight=MEK

Ken D

rhuff...I just ran over to my auto supply house and picked up a qt of Klean-Strip. I put a thick coat of it all over the frame...too early to see results...instructions say it could take a few hours and may need repeating...fingers crossed.
Ken D...just saw your email...MEK is next if the above doesn't get it.
Once again, thanks to all for the suggestions. Will update with any new results. Steve

Give a try at a overnight soak in regular old gasoline....it worked for me on some unknown finish on a old Hi-Power

Sunday morning update...no luck so far. I soaked the barrel/rcvr overnite in gasoline...didn't touch the black stuff. I had also left the Super Strip on the frame overnite...no change this morning. So, it looks like either propane torch to try to burn it off or head to the bead blaster. It may take a few days to get new info, but I'll post when available. I do check the links you all suggest...thanks. Steve

"Thick Formula, THE WORKS, Disinfectant Thick Toilet Bowl Cleaner". This stuff might do it as it will remove nickel or chrome plating.

That British black enamel is like the old stove enamel...tough as nails. The only way I have been able to remove it is with 0000 steel wool, acetone and hours and hours of elbow grease. As far as I know there is no quick and easy way. Use rubber gloves, that acetone will suck all of the oil out of your skin.

Sorry to hear that my stuff didn't work for you. That is definitely some "bugger tough stuff"!!