Assistance Please!
 

Happy July folks.
I recently aquired a Luger from my In-Law, and would like to sell it for her.
Is there a correct method, policy, or particular means to:

1. ID the pistol
2. specific photos needed
3. Proper forum to request help in determining its value
4. Any other things I need to know

I hope this isn't too much to request, but not being a gun seller, I want to do this the right way, as well as not fall for any lowballers.

It is a BYF 41 - wood grips - VERY clean - SN 6000 - all numbers I can see match ( I have not disassembled it)

Any help sincerely appreciated!
John

How about posting additional photos here, and after we kick the tires a bit you can post it for sale below? Top, bottom, right, left, front numbers, barrel numbers, magazine numbers, muzzle and bore, front and rear grip straps.
Just post a few close-ups and we'll tell you what others we need in order to speak intelligently. Then you will have your info. and can sell it as an informed seller.

dju

Great, ...I'm on it.

Luger info...
 

Here's the best I can do with the iPhone....any more needed I can take.. According to the in law, it was a bring back. She's still looking for "some leather stuff" that supposedly came with it. She is a bonafide hoarder, so thats gonna be iffy.

the basics (which in New Collectors area explained what to show, but I think you're just here for this time :) )

byf = Mauser made
41 = year made

all small parts should have the 00

value of a byf if I was buying one is $1500-$2200, depends on originality :)
depending on who is buying - mag doesn't match and thats not a deal killer at all
wood grips, which is likely correct, but some folks want to see the bakelite ones

extra magazine or holster would make a few hundred more dollars

A very nice Luger!
I'd add that it appears to have bluing that is better than most, no wear that I can see. I'm not seeing the grip straps but I'll bet they are pretty well untouched too. To me $2000 seems like a reasonable starting point.
dju

I agree with David, assuming that all inside numbers match. Is there a number inside the sideplate? Bill

Can I see the number without disassembling it?

No. It will be on the backside of the sideplate. Bill

If you are unsure of how to disassemble it you can go to YouTube or just simply don't do it. I'd hate to see anything get bent or broken...
dju

It appears you have a very nice Luger, but to learn key data re: value you should disassemble it and verify that all the numbered parts match.

Disassembly is not difficult, many YouTube videos show how. Numbered parts list is in the FAQ of this forum.

I was afraid of that. Guess if it becomes a deal breaker, I'll get a gunsmith to open it up...my limits are with the 1911!

sooo, should I move this over to the Selling forum with the limited info I have, or, is more research in order (maybe trace its "roots"), or leave it up to the new owner? opinion....

I could probably figure out how to break it down, but.....one slip of the screwdriver.....just can't do it.

It is possible to completely field strip by hand with no tools, as this videos demonstrates.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIs2AVRaZzo

I suggest at least try it. Lugers are tough and IMO can't be damaged via hand field strip. Knowing if the parts are all properly numbered is important.

I'll check out the video and see if I can work up the balls......

I hope you do. I do not deal in WWII Lugers at all but from what I can tell you have an outstanding example. Review the video and carefully field strip the piece so that you can assure the folks it is as good as it appears. Then offer it for sale at a reasonable, but not cheap, price. Good luck.
Ron

What is the letter suffix on the frame in front of the trigger guard? Please post a picture of it if you can.

OP, you just got some great advice from the lugermeisters. You have a very nice Luger that should easily sell if you price it within the range advised above.

If I were you I'd keep it!:thumbup:

Yep give your inlaw a couple grand, a big hug and a kiss, and you will be on your
way to a nice luger collection.:)

If you can field strip a 1911, you can surely do a luger.
It is quite a bit simpler.:thumbup:

That'a a very good WW-II Luger!

If you can get the story about how it came to the US, it would be more interesting.
Any accessories and sometimes, the "bring back papers".
The US soldiers would register the gun to bring to back to the US.
Those forms are very collectable and make the gun more valuable.

If you choose to sell it, give the buyer 3-5 days to inspect it without firing it.
And you should be prepared to take it back if it has issues.

My concern is that it looks like it's been re-blued.
The parts which should be a straw color are not (trigger, safety, springs).
If that's true, it hurts the collector value, but it's still a very good looking Luger !

Good photos ! Thanks for sharing your find.

By 1941, Mauser was well into salt bluing all P.08s. The strawed parts and interiors in the white of hand-crafted rust bluing were history since late 1937. So, your pistol is correct in the finish department.

The operative adage is "Buy the gun, not the story." Bring-back documentation does not necessarily add anything to the value, although the papers can be a charming addition.

tharpo:
it looks like a lower case "q" with a small diagonal line on the lower left corner of the circle part of the q....mag has same or similar mark.


As for the take down....hold my beer and watch this!

Can't get the toggle to lock open with or w/o the mag....Help!

found some good marking info here.....
http://www.tague.at/pistolen/index.h...ges/en_p08.htm

It is unfortunate that the video in the link that was posted uses locking the toggle open to disassemble the gun. Locking the action open is not necessary. You can easily disassemble the gun by pressing the muzzle against a firm but padded surface so you do not mar the finish. With the upper retracted (pushed to the rear), rotate the locking lever down and remove the side plate as shown in the video.

The fact that you can't lock the toggle open on an empty magazine is probably due to the non-matching magazine not being able to sufficiently engage the hold-open mechanism. The hold-open could be defective but it is more likely the fault of the magazine.
Ron

P.S. Oh, by the way, the safety has to be off (safety lever in the upper position) or you can't retract the receiver.

Once you learn to field strip it, you can explore whether the hold-open is intact but thwarted by accumulated goo, or damaged. It needs to move freely. I would suggest trying a different mag in the meantime. An FXO mag would not normally be suspected of having a weak spring, which could be the culprit, but one never knows...

Done!
 

All righty then,
taken apart, wiped off, photos, lubed and reassembled. The toggle hold open still doesn't work with or without the mag. Nothing apparently broken or loose. ???
More pics of the innards.
I guess the "straw" color of some parts doesn't apply to this one? Should I reiterate all the info from you guys when I list it for sale, or would a serious buyer be savy enough on its info...other than the photos?
Is listing on other sites advisable (in terms of viewers)? Should I disclose the toggle issue, or is that normal for this piece?
Probably some dumb questions, but thanks for understanding!
......and..ALL your help and input is really appreciated. I'll be glad when this is over!

Put a little oil on the hold open and work it up and down- it is probably just stuck by old grease/oil/rust?

straps
 

Forgot the photos of the straps...

I did...its sitting awhile and I'll work it some more....thanks

If you put the magazine into the gun with the upper half OFF, you should see the hold-open bar raise up a bit just as the mag. locks into place on top. The button on the magazine is what pushes it up. You'll be able to see if the mag. raises the lever. If not try a different magazine as your hold-open lever appears intact.
It's a nice gun, collectible and correct, and you're doing well.
dju

Thanks David...I'll give that a shot...problem is, I have no other mags to try. I can at least tell if the hold open bar moves.

You can actually push it up and down with your finger just to see if it moves. The flat piece just behind the magazine should raise/lower just a bit to catch the toggle on its trip forward.
dju

It does.....

I'd say that's a pretty strong indication of a magazine issue, not the actual hold-open. Minutia.
What else did you need to know before moving forward?
dju

Can't think of anything specific...I'll just disclose that the toggle won't lock open, and the consenses is a mag issue. I honestly think the gun is fine.

Is there a right or wrong way to list this? I've sold firearms before, but nothing as specialized as this.

I'll check out the video and see if I can work up the balls......In all my years I have NEVER heard a real Sky Soldier say something like that.

You can always post a link to this thread in your for sale ad so the potential buyer can learn everything there is to know about the gun.
Good luck.
dju

Gun serial number 6000q, inside sideplate #60. Does not fit the "rule" but there is no reason to think that the sideplate is not original. I think Mauser did this numbering for their own purposes and not for us collectors.

Point well taken trooper....RVN..what bat/yr?

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