Obscenely heavy trigger on 1912 P08, "two fingers" heavy
 

Howdy folks. I don't post as much as I should on here. I added another P08 to the herd and have encountered a new issue. All the other Lugers in my collection have very pleasant triggers. This new (to me) 1912 has an overly heavy trigger (think Nagant DA revolver pull heavy.) I have not tried to fire it yet, although I shoot most of my other ones. I say "most" because one of them has every part matching, has never been refinished and is a glorious bringback from WW1.
So what's going on with this 1912. It looks as if it might have been refinished and the mag is non matching, but overall it's a nice pistol with a phenomenal original barrel. I have cycled it with some snap caps and it cycles well. I am eager to shoot it but would like to get the trigger pull sorted first. Apologies if this is a stupid query, but I searched and didn't find anything on this problemo.
Thanks in advance,
Dom

Does the trigger "take up" in the usual way, but require extreme force at the end of its travel? I once had a shooting-condition navy (all matching) which had a trigger travel so long that it pulled all the way to the frame and required extreme tension at that point before it would release the sear.

--Dwight

I think that Dwight has identified the problem...the trigger/transfer lever/sear bar geometry is not correct and you have to squeeze the trigger to its limits to release the striker.
Ron

What's the best medicine for the afflicted bars? That's one area I've not had to fiddle with before. I'm reasonably competent mechanically.

It's possible that a part in the overall trigger linkage is not in the correct position, or that it as been modified to the point that it no longer is large enough to work.

First, I would take off the trigger plate and see what resistance you encounter operating the sear bar by hand (pushing it in in front to rotate and release the sear. If it's smooth and crisp, the sear to firing pin linkage is probably ok. Observe how much movement is required to release the sear.

Look at the surfaces and see if anyone has modified them, grinding them down.

Next, I would make sure that the trigger plate fits solidly against the side of the receiver. Make sure that there is no play when the locking lug is in position. Check this by operating the trigger and watching to see if the plate moves in and out. If it is loose, the plate or locking lug was probably damaged in some way.

Finally look at the trigger bar in the trigger plate. Look at the surfaces to see if they have been reduced to the point of becoming too small to press the sear bar properly. Compare the transfer bar to the ones in your other Lugers...

This may help you find what parts are contributing to the problem.

Ok, I am new here, but Dom I believe you have a Luger with the Dusseldorf experimental safety mod. That is the ultra rare and highly prized models with the 31lb trigger pulls; no unintended discharges with those puppies! ;)

Dom, I am just kidding of course, and attempting to substitute bit of humor for my lack of being able to contribute any technical advice. I do believe you have your answers in the posts from folks above. I hope their suggestions enable to resolve your trigger problem. Keep us updated.

Yes, sounds like the trigger lever angle is too shallow.
Some times they are such a bad "fit" they will not fire the piece at all.

In my experience the lever is too brittle to bend, so the only choice is a new/different one;
BUT, there is no guarantee that any given lever will solve the problem.

This is one problem where I think you would be better off to send the luger to a good mechanic,
like "lugerdoc" to fix it- he will have several levers to choose from.

In general, the parts in the trigger linkage are hardened, and will break before bending. There are a couple points that can be formed, but this takes some background.

Try and diagnose the problem step by step first.

Excellent advice gentlemen, I will do some diagnostic work today, thankfully I have a few other Lugers I can use for comparison and I fix old Mercedes so I understand it's important not to attempt any repairs until the issue is diagnosed correctly. Will report back later.

Dom, As mentioned above, you most likely have too much overlap between the trigger bar and the striker and perhaps too stiff a flat trigger bar spring. Either of these will cause a hard trigger pull, also too stiff a striker spring. Ajustments or replacement of the trigger lever can possibly give you a quicker striker release, but would not give you a lighter trigger pull. i can inspect your luger, diagnose any problems and test fire for $75 plus $25 insured priority return S&H. At that point I should be able to give you a firm quote on parts &/or labor required to correct any problems. Tom

I seem to have found the problem. Should have spotted it earlier.
Note, I propped the piece up in this position for a better photo, it is not stuck there.

What's the consensus, sheared off or ground down by some bubba "gunsmith" (I'ma fix me up this gnat-see gun right good) or stuck in the depressed position? I'm betting sheared/ground down. Looks like a tiny pin needs to be punched out before it can be replaced. On the plus side the firing pin is original!

Stuck,
I don't think you could shear that pin in use. It is solid and the hole and spring where it moves either rusted or filled with dried out lube.

Yes, you do have to push out the small pin; a paper clip will usually do it- but maybe not on yours!

Soak the sear bar in solvent to dissolve old dried grease and I'll bet the disconnect will pop right out (at least I hope so :))
Ron

Hoppes 9 won't hurt the finish right? It's what I plan to use as long as you guys give me the green light.

Hoppes certainly will not hurt the finish as well as mineral spirits (paint thinner) or acetone will not hurt the finish. Go go for it, you may very well solve your problem with no expense! As you soak the part attempt to move the disconnect pin to work it loose. Good luck!
Ron

You need to use a penetrating oil (like Kroil or WD-40). Just soak it good, tap it against the workbench and it should hopefully pop right out. Once it's loose you may want to disassemble it for a clean/lube job, and you do that by pushing out that little pin. Most punch sets won't have a punch small enough, but it can usually be pushed out with just a piece of wire.

I'm planning some solvent soak first to dissolve the crud, and then an oil soak to hopefully free it up.

Kerosene works well for this. If you're lucky, that will be all it takes to get the plunger to come loose again.

I let the part soak all day in Hoppes #9, several light taps with a brass hammer and some other non marring implements yielded nothing, no movement whatsoever. Soaking now in penetrating oil, will report back tomorrow.

I can not give any good technical advice, if its a shooter, I swap out parts - as an example of some parts working and some not - i was out shooting with Jerry Burney and could not get one to shoot, swapped a couple of sideplates, nothing.

At home I tried another sideplate and it worked fine. I guess thats why they always say that many parts are 'hand-fitted'.
:biggulp:

Also check to see if your sideplate is bulging away from the frame under trigger pressure. Seen that happen resulting in an awful trigger pull.
dju

Well, it's been soaking in penetrating oil for days. Still stuck. Strangely I don't think it has been ground down because I can't get it to push back into its recess at all! Can I apply heat and see if I get it to budge that way?

Just go ahead and remove the pin, if the plunger still won't move, at least the hole will allow more penetrant into the small channel.

You may have to grind a very fine "starting" punch to get the pin to move. It is likely well stuck also.

A Little heat won't hurt, just till the residual penetrant bubbles or catches fire! BE CAREFUL.
Hold the piece with tongs and apply heat slowly or just put in a 350 degree oven(the part, not the solvent container!)

Then let it soak for more days.

The internal spring may have "gone south" for whatever reason, but mild-mod heat and continue soaking would be my plan at this point.

Guess I’ll update here as well, I fixed the ‘12 Luger, the spring in the channel was seized with something that looked like flash rust, but wasn’t. It’s years later now and I’ve never had another issue with that Luger. Got a GREAT deal on it too, and it’s a nice early one!

It is always great when someone lets us know how "it" turns out.
Even "if" over a year later! :)