Lucky in Auction?
 

Threw a bid on a Swiss 06 this weekend, it arrived this AM. Had a hard time with the locking bolt. There was a light hard film of green grease on most of the parts. Thought I would ask you guys for your opinions. Thank you, Hugh

Well, I tried to download @ six photos by attachment, but I guess there is a trick other then the manage attachment below. I see other attached photos that you are able to enlarge and zoom on but I am not having any luck...

ADMIN NOTE: I have uploaded the first sample photo that you sent me. The original size is almost 3 megabytes. The upload process (using the manage attachments feature took almost 30 seconds for a single photo, if you attempted to upload a half dozen photos at once, it would have taken several minutes before the process was completed. The final upload size as converted by the forum software process was about 240 kilobytes. Try to upload a single photo in a new post to this thread and wait at least 5 minutes before giving up, or until the photo has been uploaded. -JS

Remember, on the 1906 model you have to press the grip safety in before you can draw back the toggle and swing down the locking lever...

Marc

Green grease
 

The green grease is more than likely waffenfet or automatenfett. Waffenfett is yellow/amber grease that can turn (light) green with age and/or exposure. Waffenfett is conjectured to be a sperm oil & lanolin based grease, and was replaced by automatenfett in the '50s. Automatenfett is a dark grey/green lithium grease.
Both are excellent.
http://www.lba.admin.ch/internet/lba...19.3328v02.pdf

If the photos are on the large side, once you have hit the upload button, then go make a pot of coffee while the file transfer takes place... eventually, they will be attached to your post, and will be listed. Once that happens, then you can close the upload window. Try it and let me know how it goes.

The main reason I wanted to post photos is because I think the green grease may have been applied a long time ago. Terrible hard time removing the locking bolt. Tracking down reason was rather simple after changing out the trigger plate with another. The tang on the side of the trigger plate that the locking bolt covers was too thick. Who knows when it was installed (may be original form the factory) but did not show signs of forced removal, which I had to do (wood dowel) and so might have limited actual use of gun! Very little wear on sharp edges and the green grease on most parts. Still have to do a better cleaning of barrel (looks like inside of smooth glass tube because of grease.

Over all shape of gun is excellent. All parts of gun match, even grips. When I figger out how to post photos - will do so.

Not bad buy for $850.00

I am always leery of 'old grease". I was overseas for just over 7 years, 93-2000 and I greased up all my guns that I left at my dads.

You'd swear it was WW2 cosmoline when I got back....
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sounds like a heck of a deal!

Sounds like you need Hoppe's #9 or mineral spirits with a toothbrush to get that stuff off...

Ed's Red works as well, and it's cheap enough for dunking large parts/subassemblies or even the whole gun. Just be careful with painted areas, I use the formula without the acetone, but it may still affect paint. The only place on a Luger would be the text behind the safety, so I would be careful with that.

I have the barrel and extension soaking in KROIL at the present, let is sit overnight and use a brass brush on it in the morning, no hurry.

Hi,

WD-40 and a tooth brush always works for me!

After you have "degummed" the pistol, I'm sure it will work with all of the original parts reinstalled.

Good luck with your fine acquisition!!! If all ends up well, your purchase price is an unbelievable steal!!


Sieger

See my note and photo in your original posting above...

John, tried to upload one jpg photo and it turned me down.

Send me the error message please.
 

Please hit the Alt-PRNT SCRN Keys when you get the error and paste it in an email (if you are using outlook) and send it to me...

It took two of the photos - will try some more on next post.

It took another four!

Thanks to John I have posted all the photos that I have taken so far. Any info that you gentleman can gleam from them would be appreciated. Thank you, Hugh

PS, I think its $850.00 well spent.........

Can anyone explain what the printing on the right side of the gun means? Is that the year manufacture or the model (1924)?

what is the inscription on the inside of the lower grip?

Nice one ; originals mags are difficult to find , and they are very specials for the bottom

Inscriptions
 

Looks like U(?) Studer written on both grips.
Almost certainly the name of the fellow to which the pistol was issued.

Just like the Swiss rifles that have name tags under the butt plates, Swiss pistols, revolvers & autos, will have the soldier's name on them

Mine.
previous owner Soldat Anton Zeder, Mineur Kompagine 2
Marked Zeder
and very lightly in the follower groove,Hangen Yoelen (?)

http://forum.lugerforum.com/lfupload/sl20v07_015.jpg
see: http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=17129

Importer info
OOW INC CHARBON OH (Ohio Ordnance Works, Inc. )
Type
1924 SWISS (Sometimes called Swiss 1906/1924)
Caliber
7.65

Yep.

Check inside the frame for a date (LU1900's photo)
http://forum.lugerforum.com/attachme...1&d=1388476427
Mine only has Z Z (and Automatenfett :evilgrin:)
http://forum.lugerforum.com/lfupload/20v07_026.jpg
Gentlemen & Ladies with better resources may have the date of mfr. based on the serial number in the Swiss section.

- Only thing I could find - Z 3 Name on grip - U. Studer Serial # 30279

Congratulations beautiful Luger.

I agree with Sieger, in similar cases in the past I used WD40, an old tooth brush a lot of patience.

The inscription under the upper frame on the right of your Luger is the import marking. I think that this one is associated with a company that was called Ohio Ordinance Works: http://www.ohioordnanceworks.com/ and they may be able to give you information about importing your pistol.

I personally never use WD-40 on a metal firearm. It is a water displacement chemical. While it's useful for dissolving the gummy adhesive used in permanent sticking labels, it's not good long term for a metal blued surface. If you do use it for some reason, be sure it's all removed when you're done.

I think it's safer to use mineral spirits as a solvent, followed by a good preserving gun oil.

An old toothbrush that's been washed and cleared of any abrasive material left by toothpaste is a good cleaning tool. Depending on what has to be removed, well oiled bronze and steel wool can also be useful.

Remember that hard things scratch and remove softer things. The grit in toothpaste is small, but it's derived from stone and stone like materials that are very hard. The black magnetite form of iron oxide is harder than in the white steel used in steel wool. It's also harder than bronze.

BTW, you paid about half the market value of that M1900/06 Swiss with correct magazine.

The serial number range would indicate that your Luger was one of the last of that model manufactured by Bern W+F (which ended at 33089).

http://www.swissrifles.com/pistols/ has the serial number range. As they switched over to the next model around 1924-1925, your pistol was probably made in 1924.

My M1900/06 W+F sn 218xx was made in 1923, so I'd put yours at the end of 1924 or 1925...

BTW, the magazine with the little silver disc was delivered with the DWM M1900 and M1900/06 manufactured Swiss Lugers, but not the ones made by W+F, which are wood bottomed without the disc.

Congratulations. These are really beautifully made, aren't they?

For future reference, there is a specific forum area for Swiss Lugers on this board at:

http://forum.lugerforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=129