Recoil spring tool
 

I make this tool which is a new reproduction of an older tool which I have seen, and which appears on this forum. It is very useful in changing the recoil spring in a P08 Luger. The handle is turned from spalted maple. There is a good site which shows how to change the recoil spring, go to wonderhowto and look up disassembly of P08, then find the video on replacing the recoil spring. This tool sells for $40.00 which includes shipping. Additional charges for international shipping. If interested, please send me a PM.
This is an example, the grain patterns change from one tool to another. I also make them without the grooves. There is a laser engraved image of a P08 with the word "Luger" on the flat top of the tool. Will attempt to add a couple of additional photos.
Thanks,
Jim

Nice work!

Recoil spring tool
 

Additional photos

Additional photo.
Jim

Love the wood!

That is a very nice looking Luger tool. I would love to have a pair of luger grips made from that wood!! I am a grip-a-holic!!

I would too! The Luger is a beautiful firearm - the grips? Uh, not so much. Walnut is a boring wood.

I will now place this tool on Ebay.
Jim

Your work looks familiar. Do you also make shifter knobs for Jaguars?

Nice work, Jim!

:eek:A really nice looking tool. Like the emblem on the handle.

Not shifter knobs for Jaguar, but rather grips for Beretta 71, jaguar.

I just received one of Mr. Solomon's tools today, and it worked splendidly! Cut down my time by 2/3 and made removing the mainspring a cinch! HIGHLY RECOMEND if you have to do mainspring work! All in all, well worth the purchase! :thumbup:

That is one nice looking tool. I'll be ordering one in the future. Excellent work.

I totally agree - Jim, that is a beautiful tool, and sounds extremely functional as well. I expect you have are aware of some of the dangers of working with spalted woods and take precautions, but felt I should just mention it.

Years ago I read an article about a woodworker who worked with spalted wood and developed pulmonary fibrosis. He attributed this to working with the spalted wood. Of course this is anecdotal evidence and there is some controversy as to whether spalted wood dust is any more dangerous than normal wood dust (http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/...k-about-health) ... but when it come to my own lungs I err on the side of caution. Just thought I would mention it and you of course may do what you would like with it. Best practice of course is to treat all wood dust as a health concern I guess, but that article from years ago seems to stick in my craw. :)

Ultimately, a woodworker without respiratory protection or a very effective vacuum system puts himself at risk for brown lung. In addition, some varieties of wood present other, different poisonous components to the woodworker in their dust. Hugh Clark cautioned me once about hop hornbeam dust I'd encounter when checkering grips--particularly with the power tool some scratchers use in theri work. I Googled the subject, and though I cannot cite the page of such info, it was pretty easy to find.

Spalting is black stains in the wood, mostly running with the grain. I forget if it is the result of the activity of a bacterium or fungus, but is a part of the wood's decomposition. I would not be surprised if the moldy dust is a hazard...

I have a good filtering system in addition to a protective mask. Once the tool is finished, there is no danger that I am aware. Thanks for mentioning this on the forum.
Jim Solomon

Good to hear Jim that you have taken proper precautions. I agree, I have never heard of any dangers with the finished product, just the dust.

As ithicaartist points out, dangers from wood dust are not limited to spalted wood dust, but sounds like you have it all under control as I expected.

Based on the reports, herein, about the way the tool functions and its effectiveness; and the craftsmanship I purchased one. It is due here on Monday. Really looking forward to receiving it. I have several people I will be showing it to.
thanks

In general, all of these tools which I make are turned from Ambrosia or Spalted Maple. I find the figure resulting from the ambrosia beetle are attractive. I have a number of different woods, so if you have a specific wood that you wish to have for the handle, please let me know.
Jim

When 1i was 13 yeas old I figured out how to change a recoil spring just using a Philips screw driver that fit the hole and was big enough to get a grip on. sometimes.
Folks over complicate these things

Albert Einstein said something like
"Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler."
As for my needs, this tool conforms to that advice.

Jim

:thumbup: I would like to point out that Jim is also an accomplished grip checkerer (after training from a master :evilgrin:) and if my 10-12 week turnaround is too long for some of you, he may be able to restore your grips faster.:thumbsup:

And I do it with a drift punch, it's really not too difficult. However, I can see a need for a tool if you do it on a more regular basis.

I have heated and bent a screwdriver-I changed a '37 recently.
I do believe in the right tool for most jobs.
Some go as far as grinding screwdrivers to fit. I think that is a good idea.
I also learned about field expedience and innovation.

I use a cotter pin puller to install my coil mainsprings. Jim's tool would look good in a Luger display, matched up with a restored [Thor] Luger and a cleaning rod like the one in Ed's carbine thread. And an old box of ammunition. In a fitted wood case. Lined with velvet. :)

Don't forget, a nice brass plaque on the box!

Jim,

Please see my PM regarding buying one of your recoil spring tools.:cheers:


Sieger

Recoil tool
 

I recently purchased the book, published 1965, entitled "Lugers Unlimited" by F. G. Tilton, MSgt, USAF. And, on page 17, found the following photograph and information. It could have been the basic design of the older tool which I had seen earlier, and the one which I used to design my reproduction which I offer for sale here on the Luger Forum.

I will add to this thread to say that I have one of Jim's tools - and it sure works better and a LOT faster than the screwdriver I was using before! Nicely made and beautiful to look at too!

I think the tool is on the Bender book too

I had to replace the mainspring on my Luger, and I liked your idea so much I made one out of a nail and an old chisel handle. Took me about 20 minutes. Thanks for the idea! Worked like a charm.

The basic design appears to work well....
Jim

I have finished a new lot of recoil tools. They are made of spalted.maple, couple from black walnut, and a couple from Bradford pear.
If interested, PM or send email to dent2@frintiernet.net

Jim Solomon

I think it interesting how many folks can use other tools. I have done that also, but using one of Jim's tools, saved me a lot of time and slipping that happened before!

:)

I just received a black walnut handled tool from Jim's latest run; and I am really glad I did.

Used it tonight to change the mainspring in a "baby" frame I'm building.

I could not have done it with my old "use a punch that fits the hole" system!:thumbup:

Great tool and great price for the $40 too!:cheers:

Me too!
 

Just got mine! Excellent workmanship! .....:)....Can't wait to use it.... Thanks Jim, best to all, til...lat'r...GT....:cheers:

Bump

Jim, that tool is beautiful and well crafted. I am glad I bought one from you. I know someday I will be glad I have it when changing that spring. You are very talented. :)

Bump