Nice 1900
 

I think he is reaching, even for the minimum bid. To bad for the slight "problem" that it has.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=336511739

:O someone try to shoot 9mm through it? or squib load? A little too pricy to throw non matching barrel on it and put in a case.

9mm wouldn't chamber so more than likely a stuck bullet and then another round fired.

I agree with SteveM, some criminal probably fired a second bullet while the previous one had remained stuck in the barrel.

It is a real shame about this 1900. It is a much better than average gun. If the barrel was as good as the rest of the gun, $2500 would be a decent buy. If it could be had for $1000-$1200 and rebarreled it would make an excellent representative piece for a beginning collection.

Take it all the way, make it into a carbine.

Can't...no stock lug. In addition you would have to fabricate and attach a forearm extension for the frame, make a forearm, make a barrel with front sight ramp and rear 3-position sight and shave off the rear sight on the toggle. Even then you couldn't legally be allowed to attach a buttstock since it was not a carbine originally. Doesn't sound like a worthwhile project to me. :)

This gun will be hard to sell. The problem is not minor.

Make note of the serial number. This gun may very well turn up in a year or so with an intact, matching barrel.

Send it to John Martz, he will fix it up and make it real nice for you! Love that patented soft silver "coin" sort of finish he does.

Ron:
So in your opinion, the carbines that the Lugerman is making are not legal since they begin life as a 4" gun?
Never thought of that...
dju

If they have a 16" barrel or are sold as a registered, short barreled rifle they are fine.

As "alanint" has pointed out, Lugerman's carbines should have 16" barrels, and I think they do.

Makes sense.
So, for the sake of conversation, a WW1 4" gun, with the rear sight milled off, and with a repop. Artillery barrel with artillery sight is a SBR if used with an Artillery stock?
dju

Yes, if the barrel is less than 16"

I think it is also possible to re-install an artillery length barrel on one that was originally manufactured as LP.08, which had its barrel changed to one that is less than 4", add the stock, and have a C&R excluded gun. Easy to do with a DMW receiver with the notch on top front, as they were notched because they were made as artilleries. Not so with Erfurt, which notched every pistol frame, after a point, regardless of its final original configuration. Isn't it the case that some reference to what production data is avaliable can result in finding serials numbers within a range of those produced, of what configuration?

I'm wondering if the barrel can be welded back up, turned on a lathe to get the correct contour and then rust blued. Of course it would be a non-shooting example but at least it would be preserved. It's in really fine shape except for the barrel.

Sorry to bear bad news, but any major mechanical modification negates the C&R status. I wouldn't even want to argue about a refinish.

Uh, oh. I was thinking it would be a restoration, but I see the point.

Offer made, but it was a no go.
 

I offered to buy the pistol; however, the owner thinks it is listed at a far price and was not willing to go to the amount that Ron had suggested in his post. Not that I need another project mind you, but it would have been a nice fixer upper.

G57

I think it really depends on the degree of major modification / yes, I know what the regulations say.

Still, it just would negate the C&R status to 'modern' FFL standards.

that said; from the BATF

Good info Ed! I think the gun could have the cracks welded, and have the barrel relined with an insert, test fired, re-rust blued, original markings micro blasted to create halos etc. But probably, it will become an SS issued snub nose!

The seller said if he didn't get at least his minimum asking price he was going to rebarrel it and keep it. He said he had sold a similar luger for $4000.00, so he thought his asking price was quite fair.

I told him about this post when I made him my offer to buy the pistol. I figured he should have some information on what the real value of the pistol was. Don't think he really cared, I think he just might be trolling for a sucker.

G57

If cut the middle broken section off, and weld a good section on, it's possible to align the rifling. "Weimar Red 9" was reworked that way, looking into the bore, the rifling looks perfect. But the silver brazing line is visible outside. I bet today's technology can hide the lines much better, visually.

After repairing, It does not have to be presented as an exotic piece. It's a repaired pistol. Probably will cost a few hundred dollars. I would think that's better than simply replacing the whole barrel -- the number is kept. The only uncomfortable part is ... it's repaired. But it's already broken, isn't it...

Rewelded barrels are unsafe to shoot. If you are going to repair a pistol, do it right. Mount a rust blued Lothar Walther barrel, or better yet, a NOS armorer's replacement item, number to match the gun, and sign the work.

I agree welding will be unsafe to shoot. But usually people don't even buy a 1920 7,65 DWM for shooting, why would someone buy a 1900 DWM for shooting?? I still think it's better to keep the number, if interested in this particular gun.

And, if an owner changed mind in future, it's always possible to get rid of that welded barrel, and install a new barrel on it. At an extra cost though. So, this step can be rolled back. Rebarrel it at the beginning, then there will be no return.

Because it's the best shooting Luger variant.

I would love to repair and then shoot this pistol from time to time. Even though the seller has dropped the by now price by $800.00 for the second listing, he is still hanging on to the $1500.00 opening bid.

Perhaps after its listed a few more times with no takers, I will try again to make him an offer in the price range Ron has suggested. Is it okay to call dibs on the pistol?:D

I would think that after reading this tread the seller would come to understand no informed buyer is going to pay $1500.00 for a shooter that still has to be repaired even if it is a nice looking 1900.

G57

So maybe he is hoping for that UNinformed buyer?
Also, the BroomCloset in Florida relines barrels for C96 and Lugers. I'm wondering about an external repair followed by a sleeve?
But regardless, there are better deals out there.
dju

Who's the seller of this gun?

dju, that's what I'm thinking or like I said before, a sucker.

I though of that repair method also. I think that would be an option if the sleeve alone was able to contain the pressure of a fired round. But the crack would also have to be welded, finished, and the barrel reblued. After all that you still have the original barrel that has been welded, sleeved and reblued so....its really not in it's original condition. I think a rebarrel is the best bet safety and effort wise.

Like its been stated before, the pistol lost it's true collector value when that second round was fired, I don't think a new barrel will hurt its value, it will just add some safety to the time it spends on the range.

alvin, I wouldn't want people to give out my name on the internet without my permission, so I will not post the sellers name out of common courtesy.

G57

G57:
I have a beautiful matching Artillery Luger with a bulged barrel. Seems a couple of kids tried shooting it and stuck one bullet, then another, then another. Anyway, the barrel is slightly bulged but not fractured. So I took it to the range and banged away. Shoots fine, but I'm not sure what to do with it if I ever decide to sell.
dju

dju,

I have heard of people shooting both rifles and pistols with bulged barrels with no great loss in accuracy. I have read that as long as the last few inches of a barrel are in good shape dimension wise and the barrel still has a good crown the firearm will still shoot well.

I can't speak from personal experience for a bulged barrel, but I have an old Mannlicher-Schoeanuer and a Remington model 8 both with lightly pitted/frosty bores that still shoot well.

Lightly pitted is okay, Bulged is okay in some cases, a fractured barrel needs to replaced in my opinion.

As for the Artillery, sell it as is or replace the barrel. As long as you price it to reflect the damaged/replaced barrel. Describe it in an accurate fashion, so the buyer knows what he's getting both parties will sleep well at night.

G57

Gerry Tomek has successfully un-bulged barrels with a 'saddle' which fits over the bulge and is then tapped while turning the barrel. Pics look good of the finished fix.

I have also seen bulged barrels put back round using a tool that looks like a pipe cutter but with three rollers (no cutter). It works great, but leaves circular marks. It is loose enough to ride the Luger taper but the resulting barrel needs refinishing.

Gerry's method is cool, and a Luger taper could be easily bored in a steel block on a lathe, then split. It would likely be gun-specific since the taper is different diameter at any point on the barrel. From a machining point of view, it sounds like a fun project. (For someone else!). :D