Worth $500.00?
 

He guys....looking to buy this from a friend. Any info would be great. Needs right side grip and locking bolt on front left. Why are the small parts not strawed? Every parts looks black. Thanks. Dave

http://s427.photobucket.com/user/wor...67387126421374

What do you want to know? 1916 Erfurt that was badly pitted and refinished "Parkerized"

Shooter grade worth maybe about $400 in my area, if that?

Bob

Thanks Bob, Thats what I need to know, If I put $100 in the locking bolt I wanted to make sure it was worth it. Might offer him $350

Also what hold the right grip on? It has a groove on the top of the grip and the screw on the bottom. It slides on and off with the screw in place.

Heavily rust pitted, maybe bead blasted, can't tell if it has been "parkerised" but certainly no original finish. You know about the right grip and takedown lever. Has it been through a fire?

Offer $200, do not pay more tha $300.

--Dwight

Don't buy it at all..It's dead. Unless you can test fire it before you buy it and it shoots really well!

Is it just me, or does the toggle train look like its been smacked with a hammer and bent a little?

+1 a test fire is in order.

Preferably by someone else ;)

O.K. I get the point its not a gem! Iam looking to have one in the safe, shot maybe 50rds a couple times a year. It cycles fine with out the magazine in and locks back with the magazine in. Bore look good. I can see wear on the Parkerized finish...so it has been shot! I will put my PPE on and shoot it!!!

As has been stated, pitted and refinished. Also it is a parts gun.....made from the parts of multiple Lugers. If it shoots reliably, then try and get into it cheap, as it is more than rough.

Well, I picked it up for $250.00! Question.....With a empty magizine in the gun, it should hold the breech open when pulled back, which it dose. Should it stay open when the empty magazine is removed? Because it dose not.

http://i427.photobucket.com/albums/p...psac844def.jpg

Can't view your photos on photobucket. Post them here...

The magazine has to be empty and inside the pistol for the hold open to work...

Marc

An empty magazine causes the hold open to, well, hold open. Once open, remove the magazine and it stays open until you pull the toggle to the rear and release it, then it should close.
But now pull the toggle back with no magazine in place. It should not stay open.
dju

Test fired the gun today!! Put in six rounds and only had to pull the trigger three times!! Its double firing sometimes and when I racked in a round once, the gun fired. Any thoughts on a fix?

Hi, photos would be very helpful in helping you.
pictures of the sear and the breachblock and firing pin , and inside of side plate especially
thanks

This is simptomatic of dirt, debrys in the mechanism. Is the small plunger at the end of the sear moving freely?

http://i427.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps13f38aeb.jpg
http://i427.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps0292966b.jpg
http://i427.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps768ff835.jpg
http://i427.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps3837a332.jpg

http://i427.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps2c7eea93.jpg
http://i427.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps4ac0a700.jpg

Possible worn sear.

Everything looks pretty clean , check the plunger in the front under the sideplate like alanint said. I woudnt think the firing pin is stuck and slam firing. You paid 250.00 I would say you have plenty of room to work with maybe you could ship it lugerdoc on this forum and have him get it squared away.

Should the firing pin always bet out of the end of the sear?

Come again?

My first guess is that the sear/firing pin interface is worn, or BUBBA has "fixed" it!! Perhaps someone tried to do a trigger job, and things went bad. With the toggle train out of the pistol, and the firing pin assy in place, the tip of the firing pin will protrude through the firing pin hole on the breachface....that is normal.

David, you could try checking for firing pin spring tension when the breech block is in battery. Read one of the stickies about de-c0cking the pistol...to get a sense of what you're feeling for, how far back to draw the toggle knobs, etc. Feel for it, and if you still have tension from the firing pin spring after the action has been cycled, then I'd say you likely have the sear/firing pin lug problem, as Richard suggests above.