What can you tell me about my Luger?
 

I inherited a DWM P08 Luger, Serial Number 4275. It doesn't have any Imperial, Weimar or Nazi proof marks on it. It has "GERMANY" stamped on the left side of the receiver and "N" with a crown on it stamped on it. I understand that may denote pre-1940 manufacture and proof fired with smokeless powder, "N" standing for Nitro. Also it has a lower case script "i" stamped on it. Any ideas on the origins of this pistol? Export model, perhaps?

Welcome to the forum.

Can you post more pics?

Sorry, that's all I have for now. I'm having it rebarrelled and re-blued and putting new grips on it. I'm not worried about diminishing its collector value, I want it as a shooter. Also, I notice it doesn't have a year of manufacture stamped on the upper receiver like other Lugers have. What's up with that, Curly?

The "i" is part of the serial number. The gun is a 1920 "Alphabet Commercial" and the GERMANY is an export stamping.

Also, the extractor doesn't have the last 2 digits of the serial number stamped on it. FWIW

It looks to be matching and in original finish. .30 Luger, right?

Re-barreling it will eliminate any collector interest, and probably reduce it's value.

it was made for export in the early 1920s (probably 1922).

Marc

Reproduction? You mean it's fake?

I think it's 9mm. At least, that's what we were firing through it last year.

That's part of his signature. Your pistol is real.

Ok. He had me going there!

Whay are you having it rebarreled is it shot out?

Yes, the bore looked pretty smooth.

Have you shot it? Do not assume that since the bore is not new looking that it will not be accurate. I have seen Lugers with bores that looked like sewer pipes that could group better than the marksmanship ability of the person that was shooting it. Try it before you rebuild it, it might save you some money and will keep it original.

Same goes for re-bluing it. Once done the value us cooked. And to us odd-balls, your gun is far more attractive as-is than if it were all shiney and nice.
dju

Commerical Alphabet Lugers do not have extractors that are number matched to the pistol, only military models.

CN & RH, If your extractor is original, it will have the last 2 digits of the serial stamped on the inside. TH

Good call, Marc! I just got it back from the gunsmith. He had it for 3 months and never touched it, then he died over the weekend. So it's still in its original condition, with its original barrel.

I tried jacking a 9mm in the chamber and it was a no-go. So I looked in the chamber with a borelight and noticed a shoulder cut in the chamber. I also miked the bore with some digital calipers and got 7.65 mm +10mm (or thereabouts.) .30 Luger, right? I've already contacted Numrich about returning the 9mm barrel. I think I'll put the new grips on it, but keep the old ones, of course.

So why wasn't the caliber stamped on this firearm? To reiterate, it's a DWM "Alphabet Series" commercial model. S/N 4275 "i". Does anyone have any reference data to verify what caliber this is?


Is .30 Luger ammo hard to come by?

Also, I just happen to own a P08 upper assembly in 9mm. Would it be safe, or prudent to try slipping this slide over the lower and firing 9mm's?

Regards,

Clark

Didn't go through with re-barreling it. Turns out it's not even a 9mm. .30 Luger?

Didn't go through with re-bluing it. Is .30 Luger ammo hard to come by?

Check Gunbroker for .30 Luger. Not under just every rock, but probably easier than .22LR. The other 9mm upper should/may fit right on. Try it. That's how I got my "Navy". A commercial lower and Navy upper. Fit right on.
dju

Fiocchi makes ammo in .30 Luger. Not sure of sources in today's market. I doubt it's in as much demand as 9mm...

There have been a couple of different lengths of receiver. It's possible that your 9mm upper might work with the frame. To fire 9mm, you probably will need a stronger recoil spring.

Note that the receiver / frame / trigger plate / take down lever were all hand fit on Lugers. For that reason, you may or may not find that your receiver will function with the frame, even if it is of the correct dimensions.

I wouldn't try it without having someone experienced with Luger gunsmithing do it.

Marc

I bought some 30 Luger recently for about $25 a box, shipped

From here?

http://shop.militaryshooters.com/cat...11&pid=1008332

I haven't checked recently, but have purchased a fair amount of Fiocchi FMJ 30 Luger ammo from Able's Ammo(Able's Sport) in Texas. It is worth a try. The shipping is reasonable due to being in So. Az.

I, also, have a 1921 DWM Alphabet Luger in 30 Luger, plus a complete 1939 rebarreled receiver(Erfurt Toggle train) that I switch back and forth on my DWM frame so that I can shoot 9mm, and 30 Luger. It can be done, but you need to check things out for fit and function.

Are the magazines caliber specific? Will 9mm magazines feed 30 Luger ammo and vice versa?

Yes, same magazines for both calibers. Look around for the 30 cal ammo and don't pay the 50 buck price that everybody asks for the Winchester stuff.

here is ammo source.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/167...cket-box-of-50

I noticed "Out of stock, no backorder." But you can be sure I'll check back with them in 3 weeks! Thanks, Ben! I have an account with Midway. I better also order some .30 Luger reloading dies:thumbup:

So I didn't defile it by having it re-barreled or re-blued. I DID dismantle it as much as I dared, cleaned everything in Agitene with a nylon bristle brush, ran a copper brush though the bore to get out the lead fouling and coated everything with CLP before reassembling it. Lookin' good now! Would reconditioning the grips be a sacrilege? They look somewhat beat up. What do you guys use on those walnut grips? Stain? Shoe polish? Minwax?

I'm glad you did not have it reblued, in fact once done its value is gone, and it's true that for us collectors a Luger is far more attractive as it is. Anyway be VERY careful when you take the grips off, having said that I would address you to the F.A.Q. of this forum where you can find an useful answer to your question about cleaning old walnut grips. One more thing just do not use shoe polish of course! :-)

Member Hugh Clark (Hugh) can make your grips look like they were never used... including fixing the million dollar chip below the safety lever...

The finish is beautiful the way it is.

Firing 9mm upper on .30 Luger lower
 

OK, I took your advice and ordered the P08 recoil spring from Numrich. Clearly, there is a difference between the two springs. The upper spring is the original .30 Luger spring. The lower spring is the replacement spring that Numrich sent, ostensibly for firing 9mm. I just don't see how I'm going to compress that longer spring enough to engage the spring guide hook over the recoil lever. I had a hard enough time reinstalling the original shorter spring. Is there something wrong with this picture? Maybe this wasn't meant to be? I assumed the lower frames for P08's were identical between .30 Luger commercial models and 9mm models. Maybe this isn't the case? :confused:

There is a difference between a recoil spring and a main spring. To replace a flat main spring you need some modification, I believe.
Jack

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufact...093.htm?page=3


So I should replace part #50 to fire 9MM? Why the difference in length between the 2 recoil springs?

No, CAP Black Jack must be confused by your question because he is incorrect this time, and that doesn't happen often... the flat spring (50) is from the early model Luger pistols... the round spring (31) is the correct spring for your P.08

Getting it in the pistol can be a real challenge. Here is a photo tutorial that THOR posted many years ago... it will serve you well.

http://www.lugerforum.com/Mainspring_Install.html

The difference in length is simply because your original spring is suffering from metal fatigue...

Welcome to the lugerforum. :bigbye:

Thanks, John. Good information! Does this mean I will be able to fire .30 Luger AND 9mm Parabellum by merely switching uppers and using the SAME spring?

If you have two different upper assemblies fitted to your frame, you should be able to shoot both calibers... the problem is that if the spring tension is adequate for 9mm, then the .30 caliber loads may not be strong enough for reliable functioning... If you handload, you can custom build your loads to suit the gun...

It worked! Off to the range with my "hybrid Luger!" I'll see what kind of loads I can work up in .30 Luger if there are cycling problems. As an added benefit, I notice that the trigger pull is a lot sweeter now with the new spring. Before, I often had to squeeze real hard sometimes to get off a shot.

Good luck with your new springs. You can lock your toggle back and leave it that way for 24-48 hours and allow the mainspring to "take a set".

In my 1921 DWM Luger, I installed the 9mm mainspring, and then load some 30 Luger rounds to factory spec. and they function well with the 9mm spring. That way I can switch back and forth with my complete upper, including toggle train, in 9mm. I hope that things work out well for you also.