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-   -   Couple problems happening here (https://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=29260)

Sky Zero 10-30-2012 11:14 AM

Couple problems happening here
 
So it seems to me like my spend casings are crimped/dented on the side after ejection. I noticed after shooting a bunch of rounds that the crimped part/dented part is actually having pieces of brass being shaved off of it at some point in the firing/ejection process and it's spreading those shavings all over my Luger. It gets everywhere and it's scratching my finish :( I thought I read somewhere else on this forum that the crimping of the rounds is normal, but lugerdoc said it wasn't. I've been using WWB but it does this for all ammo, honestly.

I stopped using the original mag once I got my 2 new mec-gar magazines but those don't seen to help this brass shavings problem.

Also, 50% of the time the action doesn't like to stay open after shooting the last bullet. about 40% of the time the action stays open with 1 bullet remaining. What's going on with that? It's happening with my 2 new mec-gar mags and my original mag. Here are some pictures. Sorry for the massive size and bad quality. I just want to get this fixed!

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...1030021141.jpg
it does this to all the ammo, although sometimes it's not that crimped/dented. Most of the time, however, it's pretty dented.

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...1030021142.jpg

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...030021142b.jpg
as you can see here, the casings are pretty dented. Not sure if this is normal

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...1030021149.jpg
this is where the majority of the built up is. The brass just grinds in there and scratches everything

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...30021150-1.jpg
As said earlier, this stuff gets everywhere including all down into the grip area.

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...1030021145.jpg
here's some of it on my original magazine.

Any kind of help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!

lugerholsterrepair 10-30-2012 12:29 PM

I wrote this before I had a cup of coffee..Never mind!

alanint 10-30-2012 03:27 PM

I don't think the extractor would affect anything but the cartridge base, not its rim.

Try this; Take a permanent magic marker and make marks near the rim of a few loaded cartridges at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 positions. Mark one of these lines with an additional "T" for Top and chamber the round making sure that the "T" mark is right a the top position. After firing, see where the shaved area is in relation to your marks. This will help you determine which of the gun's components is acting on the spent shell.

mrerick 10-30-2012 03:43 PM

What does the breech throat area of your barrel look like?

Marc

alanint 10-30-2012 05:36 PM

I agree with Marc that I would be looking at the breech throat or the feeding ramp for a sharp edge or anomaly. I think this is more likely happening upon ejecting so there is little danger of overpressure, but the spent shells are clearly hitting something upon ejection with considerable force.

Curly1 10-30-2012 09:42 PM

I have seen this happen after ejection on my Russian TT33 and other pistol brass.

Sky Zero 10-30-2012 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lugerholsterrepair (Post 222513)
I wrote this before I had a cup of coffee..Never mind!

well, thanks for your input anyway! hehe


Quote:

Originally Posted by alanint (Post 222523)
I don't think the extractor would affect anything but the cartridge base, not its rim.

Try this; Take a permanent magic marker and make marks near the rim of a few loaded cartridges at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 positions. Mark one of these lines with an additional "T" for Top and chamber the round making sure that the "T" mark is right a the top position. After firing, see where the shaved area is in relation to your marks. This will help you determine which of the gun's components is acting on the spent shell.

hey thanks for the idea. I'll go ahead and give this a try and see what I come up with. I'll post details after my next range visit so keep an eye out here



Quote:

Originally Posted by mrerick (Post 222524)
What does the breech throat area of your barrel look like?

Marc


I'll snap a picture of it and you can have a looksie. I don't exactly know what I would be looking for.

Sky Zero 10-30-2012 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick W. (Post 222520)
I am not overly sure of what is causing the marks on the case from here.

Likewise, I am not overly sure, how brass will mar steel but I do not get out much.

The extractor that resides in the breechblock only has so much reach up the case, wants to run over the rim and lock into the rim recess of the case during charging. If the brass shavings are coming from there, looks like the rims would show the wear(scratches at least).

One might take a small file and mark the rim with a smallish cut, then put that cut straight up before firing in single shot mode. That way you would have an angular reference as a clue.

I reckon it is possible for the fired case to be marked by the sharp edge(taper crimp) of the next round in the magazine, and possibly by the ejector. Just a guess on my part. Perhaps the ejector is kicking the spent case hard to the left onto the receiver fork?

The 9mmx19 is a slightly tapererd rimless case that headspaces on the case mouth. The original crimps in reloading were so called rolled crimps, such that the front of the case mouth was actually rolled into the bullet by the crimping/seating die. The taper crimp dies actually compress the case around the bullet completely, kinda a complete squeeze, rather than just at the case mouth.

It is easy to overdo the roll crimp and effect headspace, lots of leverage in today's presses. The taper crimp can be overdone too, but a bit harder to do because of dimensional stops, but leaves a nice squarish face to headspace on. Most that do the roll crimp on these cases use only a smallish amount of roll, and the headspace is off the very slightly rolled edge. Both methods will work nicely, appropriately applied.

One finds the roll crimp moreso in the rimmed cases.

One has to have to have some crimp, from whatever type of method, just to keep the bullet from going down the case and reducing the powder cavity(higher pressures). One might note that an overly smallish expander can provide fair amount of bullet holding power on its own but can effect accuracy especially with lead bullets(lead shaving on seating).

The holdopen deal can be a puzzler at times. The spring on the holdopen tries to keep the face of the holdopen in its cavity at all times. If the holdopen lead spring is weak, then the holdopen can bounce upward and catch the breechblock early. If so, one would think that the holdopen issue would show up somewhat randomly with reference to the number of cartridges still in the magazine.

The other issue is in the magazine itself. How high does the new magazines sit in the frame. The other is the size of the magazine loading button on the side, ie diameter of said button.

One can take the one grip off and watch the things work on the holdopen versus the magazine button. The purpose of the button is to mechanically lift the holdopen up against the will of the hold open spring to catch the breechblock appropriately.

I notice some wear on the ramps; may just be the picture.

thank you for the crimping info! Now I unerstand when people are talking about it haha. Appreciate it!

Sky Zero 10-30-2012 10:49 PM

Here's the breech throat as best as I could get it, as well as the feedramp (I think...)

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...1030022331.jpg

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...1030022334.jpg

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...1030022340.jpg

alanint 10-31-2012 05:43 AM

What is that "U" shaped piece at the top of your extractor groove? That does not belong there!?!
Please take a photo of this area from the top of the pistol looking down. This right here may be your problem. I also don't see how a normal extractor could fit in the groove with that piece in there, so a photo of your extractor would also be useful.

Jerry, you may have been onto something after all!

Lugerdoc 10-31-2012 10:11 AM

I believe that the "U" shaped "problem" is just an optical illusion caused by the angle that the photo was taken. So long as this part of the received doesn't extend into the extractor cut of the barrel, it should be OK. Too many of you chasing Zebras. Unually when the case mouth of a spent case is crushed, it's a result of the toggle returning faster than the case can eject. There are several possible cause of this, but with the lack of HO after the last round, I would postulate that the recoil spring is too strong for the ammo being used. Cutting a link or two off of the current recoil spring, should solve this problem. Of course it would be a good idea to also check the condition of the extractor and ejector, which can also delay case removal. TH

Vlim 10-31-2012 11:17 AM

Take a look at the extractor spring (the little coil spring below the extractor itself). When it is weak, the round will be pulled backwards, and rammed out by the next round. The dent is usually caused by the extracted case banging into the receiver. You should notice that the case barely clears the gun while shooting. With a fresh extractor spring, the case will jump over you.

I had a mismatched VoPo with the same 'features'. The cases kept hitting me in the face, or on top of my head, and all were dented. Finally I replaced the extractor spring and all went back to normal.

Sky Zero 10-31-2012 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alanint (Post 222566)
What is that "U" shaped piece at the top of your extractor groove? That does not belong there!?!
Please take a photo of this area from the top of the pistol looking down. This right here may be your problem.

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...ca/image-3.jpg

I hope that's what you were looking for :/ I'm still going to try your idea; just haven't been to the range yet.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lugerdoc (Post 222577)
Unually when the case mouth of a spent case is crushed, it's a result of the toggle returning faster than the case can eject. There are several possible cause of this, but with the lack of HO after the last round, I would postulate that the recoil spring is too strong for the ammo being used. Cutting a link or two off of the current recoil spring, should solve this problem. Of course it would be a good idea to also check the condition of the extractor and ejector, which can also delay case removal. TH

Good info! Where exactly is the recoil spring located? Not inside the bolt assembly, right? That's the only spring I've seen other than the hold-open spring. Could the recoil spring also be causing my hold open issue?

here's some photos of the extractor and ejector. I'm new to lugers so I don't know what abnormalities in which I may be looking

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...ca/image-2.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...ca/image-1.jpg

It's a bit dirty.. sorry! Wanted it this way for the photos though

Sky Zero 10-31-2012 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vlim (Post 222580)
Take a look at the extractor spring (the little coil spring below the extractor itself). When it is weak, the round will be pulled backwards, and rammed out by the next round. The dent is usually caused by the extracted case banging into the receiver. You should notice that the case barely clears the gun while shooting. With a fresh extractor spring, the case will jump over you.

I had a mismatched VoPo with the same 'features'. The cases kept hitting me in the face, or on top of my head, and all were dented. Finally I replaced the extractor spring and all went back to normal.


Well the rounds seem to jump high well enough and usually bang me on the top of my head after hitting the ceiling above the shooting station. i'll take a looksie at the spring; anything I should notice when looking at it if it's a weak spring? Could the ejector be cutting into the rounds that give that triangular shaving pattern (see original photos) Thanks! Great info as well.

JD 10-31-2012 12:16 PM

Looking at your photos, and noting that you are using WWB, I don't think the "brass" you are seeing in the pistol action is brass at all. WWB is loaded with ball powder, and in my experience it leaves some unburnt powder particles in the action after firing. These particles are a yellow / brass color as the deterent coating gets burned off, and are very small spheres or flattened spheres. To the average shooter they do appear to be "brass" particles, but instead are simply unburnt pwder particles and are quite normal when firing ammo loaded with some types of ball powder. I see this all the time when firing my Sigs with Winchester ammo...

Vlim 10-31-2012 01:56 PM

Geco has a similar burn/residue behavior.

mrerick 10-31-2012 02:23 PM

It looks like the barrel is not rotationally aligned in the receiver. Note the lack of symmetry at the extractor cut.

Note how the left side of the cut is vertically aligned, and the right side of the cut has a step.

Does the barrel witness mark line up, and is the front sight perfectly vertical to the receiver and frame?

Marc

Sky Zero 10-31-2012 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JD (Post 222585)
Looking at your photos, and noting that you are using WWB, I don't think the "brass" you are seeing in the pistol action is brass at all. WWB is loaded with ball powder, and in my experience it leaves some unburnt powder particles in the action after firing. These particles are a yellow / brass color as the deterent coating gets burned off, and are very small spheres or flattened spheres. To the average shooter they do appear to be "brass" particles, but instead are simply unburnt pwder particles and are quite normal when firing ammo loaded with some types of ball powder. I see this all the time when firing my Sigs with Winchester ammo...

Excellent info. It's not that I don't believe you or don't want to take your word for it, but these brass looking shavings are also shiny like they are on the casings. There are also large bits/chunks/strips of this shiny brass colored material laying here and there around the different parts of the gun. Is this powdery residue you're speaking of shiny as well? It shines when light is put to it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrerick (Post 222597)
It looks like the barrel is not rotationally aligned in the receiver. Note the lack of symmetry at the extractor cut.

Note how the left side of the cut is vertically aligned, and the right side of the cut has a step.

Does the barrel witness mark line up, and is the front sight perfectly vertical to the receiver and frame?

Marc


Now that you mentioned it, I see a lack of symmetry in the area you're talking about as well as a misaligned witness mark. Here's a photo.

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...1031022146.jpg

JD 11-02-2012 02:41 PM

Sky Zero,

Unburnt powder particles can look shiny if they are covered in oil or when you shine a bright light on them. Powder particles are round or semi-round flattened spheres, often very small. Powder particles would not be in the shape of strips, or rectangles. My guess is that most of what your seeing is powder particles, with probably some real brass particles thrown in too...

Sky Zero 11-03-2012 12:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JD (Post 222697)
Sky Zero,

Unburnt powder particles can look shiny if they are covered in oil or when you shine a bright light on them. Powder particles are round or semi-round flattened spheres, often very small. Powder particles would not be in the shape of strips, or rectangles. My guess is that most of what your seeing is powder particles, with probably some real brass particles thrown in too...

oh ok! Thanks for the info, JD :)

should I get my proof marks aligned? (see picture 2 posts up)

Rick W. 11-03-2012 07:25 AM

If you are talking about index marks, barrel/receiver; then you might ask am I a looker or a shooter?

If a shooter, does it shoot to the point of aim?

If a looker, then the marks being off may have some effect on perseived value. Some folks believe that the marks being off, means the barrel has been off since the factory days, others are not so sure.

The marks can be aligned with special tooling, ie the barrel vise and receiver wrench(very important).

Sky Zero 11-16-2012 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick W. (Post 222733)
If you are talking about index marks, barrel/receiver; then you might ask am I a looker or a shooter?

If a shooter, does it shoot to the point of aim?

If a looker, then the marks being off may have some effect on perseived value. Some folks believe that the marks being off, means the barrel has been off since the factory days, others are not so sure.

The marks can be aligned with special tooling, ie the barrel vise and receiver wrench(very important).

Well would that effect the function of my gun at all? I shoot her but I'm having this problem and I was curious if it's due to the misaligned barrel

Rick W. 11-16-2012 08:50 AM

Index marks(witness marks etc) are used to remove and reinstall barrels onto receivers and retain the original headspace characteristics and sight alignments. This of course, is true blue, if the parts are originally fitted to one another; otherwise you takes your chances.

With all the parts changing going on now and previously, the alignment marks may or may not indicate originality. If the marks are true, then the sights should be in alignment for shooting with a particular type of ammo. If one cranks the barrel past or before the true index mark, then the point of impact will change, just like changing ammo types.

So if the index marks are off from one another on your particular Luger, what does that mean.......I really cannot tell from here. If one pays attention to the various clearances in the breeching system, particularly around the extractor to its receiver cavity, then one might gain some insight about functionality. There are cuts in the barrel and in the receiver for receiving the extractor nose. If the extractor is off axially of its cavity(s) and scrapeing, then probably will not function as well or perhaps be long for the world.

Likewise, the tension on the extractor has to be turned for the system, such that the spring provides the movement of the nose over the case's rim. If the extractor provides the movement itself due to trash or a overly long extractor spring(excessive stackup), the extractor will eventually break in half.

Index marks are supposed to be a indication of original fitment of barrel to mechanism. As before, today's parts changing makes taking a fine look at the fit of parts rather than the index mark for shooting purposes. Index marks have the only influence on perseived value for collectors, guess they assume originality from such a visual.

of course, you all ready knew all these things...............some my remarks of course, is opinion.

jonnyc 11-16-2012 09:11 AM

My matching (all except the side-plate) RC Luger does exactly the same thing to brass. Since mine shoots and functions 100%, I just ignore it. I don't reload 9mm, or save the brass, so I am happily assuming it is a non-issue.


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