1937 Mauser Luger (S/42)
 

I just picked up my first Luger and took it to the range today. This is a great looking piece of art-but I had an issue. Every second or third round fired, would not fire(click). The round stayed in the chamber and I had to physically remove it. I examined the round and it looked to have a lite strike on the primer. Could this be the firing pin spring?? Thanks!

Welcome!

More than likely the sear is not resetting for a following shot. Check the little barrel at the end of the sear bar for free play. Make sure it moves freely and has no excess oil, grease or debris impeding its function. Also check all the recesses around the sear bar for similar issues.

This is more than likely the problem.

S/42 Problem
 

Thanks for the fast response. Is it the barrel at the end of the trigger bar?That does move freely.

Yes, perhaps "plunger"would have been more appropriate. Make sure all the areas around the bar are clear and clean. One trick is to polish down the very outer edge of the plunger, (facing out of the pistol) so that the "L" bar that connects the trigger to the sear can better ride over it and reset the sear. oil with a very light oil and take it to the range again.

Thanks again. I am new to the Luger. I've always wanted one. An elderly lady I know wanted to sell this-it was her father's(bring back from WWII). All the numbered parts match on it,but the barrel(has no numbers,but the bore is excellent.Its eight inches,replaced sometime). I probably spent to much but she needed the cash. I will try it out again,but, I don't want to shoot it too much.Someone at another forum said something about a deep chamber and new 9mm is shorter??

That is nonsense. The 9mm specs have changed very little since WW1 If the gun ejected more than one spent case then there is very little chance "the chamber is too deep"!

Now another matter would be head space on a replaced barrel. The quickest way to look for this would be to examine a spent case after firing. A poorly supported case will show a slight bulge right at its base, just above the extractor groove in the case.

While inspection by a qualified gunsmith may be in order, I still suspect your sear is the culprit here.

Thanks again!

Alanint is probably right on, but also clean inside the breechblock, and inside the firing pin. A lot of crud can collect there.

N

Sometimes the sear plunger not resetting can be a weak plunger spring. Or the plunger "tunnel" might be gummed up with dried grease or crud. If the gun does not reset you wont hear the firing pin release at all. IF the firing pin is releasing and you have a light strike, it could be the firing pin spring. Might be a good idea to clean out the breechblock where the firing pin travels and also the sear plunger area. Looks like FNorm and Alanint are giving you great advice.

One other more remote possibility involves the accumulation of crud in the extractor well. Especially if it's preventing the breech from returning to full battery by not slipping cleanly over the cartridge rim.

It's a long shot, but this area should probably be properly cleaned anyway.

Marc

Thanks again! I will try all of the sugestions.

steps to find a problem
 

While the sear bar reset can be problematic ...
if there is a strike on the primer , then means the sear is resetting.

First 'd take the gun apart and clean the breach block from the inside.

2nd I'd inspect the firing pin and sear for any wear and damage, as if it is somewhat bent or worn, it can be creating abstraction for firing pin as it moves forward, ans slows down the strike itself, resulting in the unreliable firing.

3ed, i'd check the head spacing just for the hell of it, as it may also result in unreliable strike.
if rounds move forward as a result of the firing pin strike, some may fire some may leave a mark but not fire.

4th, I'd replace the firing pin spring and main spring , just to make gun safer to fire and more reliable.

5th, the firing pin may be shortened or broken or worked on, that may also create the problem.
at that pint a pencil test is in order.

6th use good ammo ( Winchester, Federal, Foicci , Remington ) in that order.


There are different courses of action, depending on what you find going from step to step.

Thanks.

1937 S/42 Help??
 

Threw in some picutres now. I disassembled the Luger and everything seems clean. Springs look good and the plunger moves freely. Tried it again and it did the same thing. First round fires and ejects, next is chambered and then 'click'. I pulled the toggle back and the round stayed in the chamber. I had to pull the round out-it does come out easily. I ordered replacement springs to try that. The lady I purchased it from said it haden't been fired in 25+ years. Thanks for your help!

Any info on this Luger would be appreciated.

The scratch on the left side of the receiver just in front of the sideplate indicates the trigger lever adjustment may be off and it is not moving back enough inside the sideplate to allow the plunger to go forward and reset for the next shot. First thing I would do is clean out the inside of the side plate good to make sure the trigger lever is moving very easy back and forth. If it is and the plunger spring is strong then a couple of options present themselves. Swap out with another trigger lever to see if that helps, metal removal from the face of the trigger lever where it meets the sear plunger. Adjustment of the sear spring to a lighter push sometimes will fix this too. Sending the gun to LUGERDOC to get it up and running is what you might consider. He will fix it to function correctly, that is his specialty. Bending the trigger lever is NOT recommended as it is a harden part and will simply break if you try to bend it. One other thing, the barrel is an after market replacement. As issued it would have had a 4" (100mm) 9mm Caliber barrel.

I would follow Thor's advice and see if this fixes the problem.

You never mentioned that your gun had a big, honkin' aftermarket barrel in your original post. This would reenforce the possibility of headspace issues, (as would your assertion that rounds will not extract).

The previous owner's mention that it had not been fired in 25 years may be for a reason; Someone had a shade tree gunsmith install an aftermarket barrel on the gun and when it would not function reliably, gave up on it and put it away. I would send the gun to Luger Doc and have him get it running for you.

LUGERDOC sounds to be the answer. Can I contact him on this site??

Yes, that is his user name. I sent you a private message with his contact information.

Thank you. Just talked to the lady I purchased it from-it was her fathers. She only remembers the barrel thats on it. I wish I could find out more. All the other numbers match(even the grips). Thanks for your help.

Took it out again. Five-six rounds great. Heavy primer strike and great ejection. One or failures(lite strike and failure to eject). Local gunsmith couldn't figure it out. The headspace is good. Going to try some different mags??

Sorry one or two failures.

that wasnt changed from a 30- to a 9mm was it I wonder if the its the correct recoil spring , it probably is if it was made in the late 30s but.... I do enjoy random uneducated guesses :)

Check the extractor face, and be sure that one arm is not broken. If the chamber is too deep, the 9mm round can not headspece on the case mouth, as it is designed to do, and the extractor can not move over the case rim into the extractor groove of the cartridge when the breach closes. If the loaded round with a light primer strike is not extracted when you cycle the toggle, then the extractor never got into the groove. The loaded cartridge is too far into the chamber, and the extractor and the firing pin can not reach it to allow normal function. What ammo are you trying to shoot?

Not sure about the caliber change. I ordered new springs to try. The extractor looks good. If the chamber was too deep wouldn't all rounds be affected? The last time at the range, I got five to six rounds to function properly(3 or 4 different times) then a complete failure. Click and no extraction. Winchester White Box. Thanks for your help!

If the chamber is really marginal, it make work hit and miss due to the slight variation in the ammo case mouth dimensions. If the extractor is not getting over the case rim, the firing pin can not reach the primer well enough to ignite it, and will show as no/light primer strike. If you have access to PMC ammo, try some 115/124gr FMJ in your luger. The brass is slightly thicker than the WWB by .0005 inch or so, and gives a better case mouth to catch on the chamber groove.

Also, take the Luger apart(field strip) and get a good light, then look into the chamber at the chamber groove. If there is any crud in the groove, use a very sharp pointed tool (ice pick,etc) to clean the groove. Many times the bronze barrel brushes don't clean the chambers that well.

Also, now that it is apart, remove the firing pin and spring, and reassemble the Luger. Place 1-2 WWB rounds in the magazine and put them in the gun. Work the toggle slowly by hand and when the breachblock feeds the round into the chamber and fully locks, the extractor should be raised on top of the breechblock. From a fully closed/locked toggle train, now slowly open the toggle and see if the extractor has ahold of the loaded round via the extractor groove, and is removing it from the chamber. As I stated above, be SURE that the firing pin and spring are out of the gun. This little test will give you some information as to the chamber and extractor. Is the extractor spring good and strong?

Didn't mean to be so long winded, but these Lugers can be very frustrating to say the least.

Thanks, I will give this a try.

Went to the range today-the PMC ammo worked perfect. I did change the firing pin spring. No other ammo would work(Remington,Winchester(nato) and white box). Its very frustrating! I'm going to try the ejector spring and then the main spring. Any other thoughts? Thanks again for all the info. The guys at the range loved it!!

P08 lugers are very ammo sensitive, like many .22 cal handguns. Feel lucky that you have found an inexpensive brand of ammo that runs 100% in your Luger. To me, you have proven that the chamber headspacing is very marginal, and it will jam/fail to fire with the standard WWB, Remington etc. ammo. You can try spring changes, but if the firing pin won't reach the primer well enough to ignite it, that is not a spring problem. I have a 1921 DWM that does the same thing due to a "pistolsmith" that screwed up the headspace on a new barrel.

So I just purchased a case of PMC 115gr ammo for a couple of my 9mm Lugers, and then I can get on with my life knowing those Lugers will function good when they go to the range.

Others may disagree, I am just giving you my opinions, and what works for me and my Lugers(two of them).

I still might send it to the 'Lugerdoc" if its a headspace issue. But, I took it to a local gunsmith and it looked good. Only problem, he never looked at or worked on Lugers! He works for the Border Patrol and works on H&K's.

Tried the PMC ammo again- its works great. If it is a headspace issue, how can I fix it? My local gunsmith offered me $1500.00 again. Comes with two mags(correct period), Holster that was cut to fit(crazy),Nazi belt(w/buckle) and the registration card copy from 8-18-45. I LOVE this pistol-everyone who see's it wants it! I know I should just put it away no matter what it is or does. But the wife is giving me a hard time about it. Any opinions would be great!

I really don't want to put alot of rounds through it..just in case? What is a fair price??

I don't know if I'd sell something as distinctive as that, no matter what the price, and I think there's a lot of history there (plus I'm sentimental about my 'first' anything, heh). Hopefully one of the other more knowledgeable members can suggest a fair price.

Haven't been to the range lately...But thanks to all for the info!!!!!

Changed a few springs.. was there a difference in size. The originals were compressed alot compared to the new. Hope this solves the issues with all ammo!

S/42
 

The original owner gave me a copy ,was dropped registered 8/19/45 Vet bring back .Tell me???

Keep the Luger; get rid of the wife. :thumbup:

Too expensive to get rid of either one... Gotta keep both!!

I have an S/42 in good condition that is sensitive about everything. The most recent variable that I am trying to control for is the shape of the ogive on handloaded full metal jacketed bullets. I regard it as a project gun and I am making progress. Doubt that I will ever sell it. If I were you I would send it to Tom Heller and let him look at it. Yes it may cost some money but go one step at a time and it will come together. You already have one brand of bullet that works. Unless you can afford a new Krigoff (sp?) those of us who own the old ones have a weapon that comes with a very significant history.

Greg B.

Thanks..Love the gun ... these were made well before the plastics. It feels great in my hand and I don't care if I shoot it..history!!