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Do you guys mind another one of these "help" threads?
My grandfather must have brought this home from WW2.
It's been in a cedar chest for decades. Probably not been shot since the war, but it appears to be in working condition. I am guessing the 1939 looking at the top of the gun near the middle (by the firing mechanism just before the start of the barrel??) is the year made ?? On the left side in the same spot is 8869. And 69's are then all over the gun except for the clip which has 7378. I've not seen a clear grip like this anywear and it is slightly cracked so I dont want to mess with it. He put pictures there himself because they are of him and his mother. If I remove the clip I can see the pictures from within so it must be just a clear piece of plastic. I do not plan on selling. It will remain in the family for as long as I can help it. Does the grip devalue the weapon? Should I attempt to fire it? I have plenty of other modern firearms - although no Rugers. Pictures are coming. Thanks for any help. |
http://i992.photobucket.com/albums/a...n/100_0842.jpg
http://i992.photobucket.com/albums/a...n/100_0848.jpg http://i992.photobucket.com/albums/a...n/100_0843.jpg It also has from what I can tell from internet searches is the original holster in good condition. |
Sorry for the over sized pictures.
Not sure how to resolve that. |
historicus -
Yes, it is a 1939 Mauser-made Luger. The see-through plexiglass grips do detract from the collector value; however, this particular Luger has a family history to go with it too. Once in a while a GI would install these see-through grips and put a picture of his wife or sweetheart under the grips. The finish looks a little rough, so maybe it was not stored properly. Since the finish is a little rough, and since it is missing its original grips, my tentative opinon would be that if you want to shoot it, that should be okay. Question: What markings are on the toggle? |
Hi Historicus,
It is a Luger, not a Ruger. The 1939 over the chamber is the date it was made. The forward toggle should have S/42 or 42 stamped on it... both are codes for Mauser. The grips are plexiglass, probably from an aircraft. Many GI's did this to there prized Lugers. Many also had them nickle plated. Sadly the condition of the finish suggests that it was stored improperly, in a humid environment, which puts it in a shooter catagory. Edit...Ron beat me to it. |
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And thank you very much for your response. :) |
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Should I attempt to find original grips, or buff/restore/clean it? Let me check for those numbers on the toggle |
the toggle has just the number 42
even as "just a shooter" what would you consider the firearm's value to be. (obviously sentimental value to me is priceless, but its the obvious question to ask) |
On the open market probably $700 max. But as you said, to your faimily, priceless. Congrat's.
dju |
Another question:
When I open up the holster there is a tiny pocket just underneath the top cover which is empty now. It's almost like a mini-holster only the size of a couple inches. Along the side appears to be a clip pocket. What would that small opening have been designed for? |
A loading tool that looks like a key went there. That is one great piece of history, Great pic of your grandfather and his mother. Quite a treasure. Thanks for shareing c
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Thanks. I really wished I knew more about where he was located, but unfortunately he died 30 years ago, and my father is a Vietnam vet who doesnt talk about these things easily.
the loading tool is a piece I would like to pick up and make the set complete. Also, I just tried pulling back the top part (not sure of its name. i guess thats the toggle bolt) and now its stuck in the pulled back position. pulling the trigger does nothing - even though i dont want to dry fire it improperly. How do I resolve this?? Its not the safe. |
That's called the 'Hold Open' the toggle stays back on an empty magazine. Take the mag out, pull back on the toggle and it will close. BUT, do this slowly, holding it against the spring tension, about 3/8s of an inch before full closure, pull the trigger back and hold it. Thus the action will close, but not arm the firing pin.
FN |
Thanks FNorm!
Worked like a charm. You guys are one helpful, friendly bunch. Many thanks to each. :) |
Please do not replace those grips. It will not add to the value of the gun and they are a treasured momento of your grandfather.
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You are correct, that is the toggle. It isn't really stuck, it is being held in that position by an internal "hold-open" latch. The pistol is designed to stay in that position after you fire your last round and the magazine (clip) is empty. Simply remove the magazine and pull the toggle back about a mm or so. You should hear a faint "click". This is the sound of the hold-open disengaging the bolt. Then you can allow the toggle to settle back down on the pistol and reinsert the magazine.
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Me gusta la apretones ..... Toda Hijo Una Historia.
**... Gran valor sentimental Que Tiene Su arma:) Was it normal a few grips personalized in the luger? Antonio |
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What about a professional buffing, or restoring the barrel etc...? Not necessarily to increase value but perhaps to preserve longevity of the pistol? |
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Thats pretty much how it worked. I'm going to invest some time this weekend looking for a manual to become comfortable with it. I am really looking forward to taking this to the range! |
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online language translators come in handy :) |
I would only disassemble it and give it a good cleaning. You will not do anything to improve it by buff/restore. It will just shine more. It is what it is. John
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Try youtube for some pretty good videos regarding firing, disassembly, care and feeding, etc.
Regarding restoration, that is a personal decision. You will probably end up with more in it than a restored gun is worth, but if it is something that you just want to do, well, I've certainly spend money more foolishly so I will not cast the first stone... I have used the Lugerman with good results, and also Thor on this list does excellent work. dju |
You didn't list where you reside, I'm sure if one of us who lives close to you would be willing to show you how to disassemble, clean and re-assemble your family treasure
Jim |
I agree. I wouldn't be in a hurry to have it restored. Give it a good cleaning/oiling ... it will come up a notch or two and maintain its personality.
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thank you one and all!
I live in Western Pennsylvania and am a member of a Gun club, so perhaps i will seek out help there too, but I do appreciate all of the advice. I did see some of the videos on youtube, and they were very good, but the Holiday weekend will not afford me the time necessary to do much. I seem almost happier knowing this is something I can enjoy shooting with friends and family as opposed to placing in a display case. I'll spend some time tonight wiping it down with my gun oil until I can learn how to disassemble properly. Have a good Holiday weekend everyone ! |
Well, I would be glad to take a look, but I am kinda out of the country :D
As everyone has said, this is a nice family heirloom, albeit a bit rougher ;) And would only clean her with 0000 steel wool (lightly) and oil, then wipe it down. Be careful if you take the grips off, normally I say that because of damage to the grips is possible, but I say this because of the pictures. Welcome to the forum! Ed |
Before you decide to send any of your firearms to Eugene Golubstov (aka Lugerman) you would be best served by doing a search on past comments concerning his work and over all customer satisfaction. I sent him a Mauser C96 “Broomhandle” a few years ago for restoration work. To make a very long story short I had to threaten him with a lawsuit in order to get my gun back after over a year of unanswered emails and phone calls to him. And I’m not the only one who has had to go down this road with him; others have had the same problem too. It’s all here on the message board, just do a search under my name or Lugerman or Eugene Golubstov. Personally, I would never send him another gun no matter how nice a website he has.
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The correct loading tool for your 1939 PO8 should be E/655 marked. I have these available @$75 + S&H. I also have repro ones marked with the E/63 available @$20 + $5 S&H. Tom
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