My First Luger, honest opinions please
 

I know that evaluating a Luger from pictures is a guesstimate at best, so any input on value and condition would be appreciated.

I have looked on many sites that have Lugers for sale, and from their statements of condition, I would say that this piece has between 75-80% of the finish remaining. Grips are solid on both sides, no cracks or chips, but the right grip does have a dime-sized spot of wear that looks like a strap or something must have worn on the grip for a long time. The checkering is still there in that spot, but it is noticably worn more than the rest of the grip. All parts are numberd either 783 or 83 and match with the exception of the magazine, which is numbered 3316 t and then a nazi eagle over 63.

Take a look at the pictures and tell me what you think. Thanks in advance for your opinions and information.

Hi, some more pics would be apreciated. Let us see the right side, some close-ups and the mag even if it is not matching. From what I have seen since now it is a very nice Luger... Congrats..

Serial # + suffix pic; proofs on right side pic; any strange markings pics...

Any numbers on inside of grips??? What kind of mag bottom???

Any pitting??? Rust??? How's the bore???

Ballpark? $1350.
dju

Wow...you're being generous... ;)

I'd say $850...

Hi John, Welcome to the forum. I think you estimate of your Luger's finish is overly conservative. Most dealers would rate it at 95%+. We can't evaluate the right grip since you haven't posted a photo, But that aside, I would go along with David and figure it $1,000.00 to $1,500.00. Regards, Norm

Postino:
Why so low? I'm seeing a common model, better than average condition, matching except the mag., no import marks or glaring damage. Seems to me that the WW2 guns just bring a bit more, maybe 10-15% for whatever reason unbeknownst to me. Maybe better/stronger shooters. If I were buying it I'd be in the $1200 range at the top end. But $850? I'd buy matching WW2 Lugers all day at that price.
DJU

I am guessing you don't collect these.
Cheers,
Jason

Probably Postie referring to dealer's acquisition price, not the retail price. Dealers earn their money of course. It's a full-time job. There are quite amount of work involved to get collectible guns and resale them.

So, if have a collectible gun, do not sell it to dealer. Doing consignment is OK, but selling to a gun store getting immediate cash means much lower amount. They do pay cash, no waiting.

Luger pistols in my area, in this good a condition, are selling for $1200 to $1300. And, because there are very few Lugers in my area for sale, some are higher.
So, I consider 1200 to 1300 for this Luger to be a fair price.

David -

I'm going on what I would pay for it. I'm not a collector, and if I were a new buyer with no Lugers and only sketchy knowledge about them, I really wouldn't care about matching numbers, mismatched parts, wrong mag, or import markings. If the OP were to post it on GB or AA or GA, Jan's, here, or anyplace where collectors scrutinize the listings looking for bargains, he might get the prices you guys suggest. But there are also VOPO, Russian captures, parts buildups, etc for ~$850, by my observations. Quite a few of these are good looking Lugers, and that's all new owners are looking for these days. A nice looking Luger to shoot occasionally, hang in your safe to admire, and not spend a lot for.

As stated repeatedly in other threads, you could post this Luger at your price and it might sit for a year before being sold...or it might sell tomorrow...or not sell at all...

I find it humorous that there is another thread here where the guy has looked up advised prices here and you all told him that it is too much... :D

Depends what the seller wants to do...Quite a few who ask for an estimate here just seem to be looking to sell it quick and get what they can...lots of 'attic treasures" being uncovered...and being sold off by people who aren't gun buffs or whose wives won't allow guns in the house...

Postino,

Bravo!

Newluger

I am very cautious to suggest a price about a gun. I collect byf 41 's and can tell you that 850.00 is not even a good guess. This pistol looks to be in good shape. I only comment on things that I have some experience with, to be fair and honest to the person asking the question. Some dealers would sell a similar pistol for about 1800.00 and get it quickly


http://www.simpsonltd.com/product_in...28bdce4105e016

http://usgunexchange.com/products.cf...&sct=36&ID=834

I could go on and on with these listing for over 2k

This pistol drops in price for me because of the finish. 75% on a fairly common pistol is not something I am going to pay a premium for. This pistol in 95% and even though it is not in my collecting field I would easily give $1500. This pistol, because of finish... is close to the collectable/shooter catagory IMO.

Remember the dime size blemish in the right grip?

Jerry Burney

I would second the $1500 estimate, plus or minus, judging from the photos.

Which is why you're a collector and I'm not. You can separate the wheat from the chaff, and scoop up bargains like this. I would only see a shooter here, and pass it by at the ~$1350 price.

I assume you've made the OP/seller an offer??? If you get it, please post more pics! :thumbup:

If not a collector, there is a guide:

http://www.amazon.com/Gun-Digest-Buy.../dp/089689844X

It's available in Borders, B&N etc. Most guns are priced lovely in this guide. For example, excellent byf $900, excellent bolo Mauser $900, excellent K date $1500, excellent G date $1250.....

I searched but could not find definition of "excellent" in the guide. On the contrary, lots of credit is given to modern guns, Glock 26 $650, S&W 1911 $1200. I scratched my head trying to understand if $1500 could buy an "excellent" K Date, why should I pay $1200 for a S&W 1911 practically having endless supply? Probably NIB so I have no choice? Cannot I simply not buying anything? :)

more pics
 

You guys are great. A forum where people actually try and help each other, what a nice surprise!

Evaluating the condition of the finish is something that was totally out of my area of experience. In dealer sites I saw pistol after pistol advertised at 90, 95 even 98 percent. I assumed that 100% was totally factory mint, just like it rolled off the line. So I am thinking that those pistols must be pretty much new looking to be advertised at 90% + finish. That is why I said I thought mine must be 75-80%.

As asked, I have a pic of the right side of the grip and also checked the inside of the grips for numbers. The grips are stamped inside 83 also a letter V and a kind of nazi eagle above what looks like the number 655.

Also the barrel has what looks like 9,82 stamped below the number 783. Although it could also be g,82.

Bore is nice and bright, no rust or pitting.

Where I am in S. Calif. these BYF 41's start at 1800. and go to 2400. without a matching mag in the condition pictured above. These pistols are rather pricey where I live.
Jeffrey

It was mentioned in another thread that it is virtually impossible to purchase/sell any firearm across CA state border; therefore anything inside commands premium price...A very sad state, indeed... :(

(pun intended) ;)

Take the time to look very closely at your Luger.
We can only tell so much from pictures.

Good Luck

Vern

Thanks for all the input
 

Guys thanks very much for all your input. I used info on this site to field strip the pistol and carefully examine all the parts, even used a magnifying glass to be certain of the numbers. All the ones that are marked are either 783 or 83. I feel confidant now that all parts are matching and original to the piece...although why they took the time to mark all the parts is beyond me.

Luger parts are matched to the firearm when it is manufactured or rebuilt by an arsenal.

The precision fit of parts in a Luger is somewhat tighter than other firearms of different designs.

In the field, if you disassembled and cleaned your gun, you wanted to get all the parts back into it. Imagine several soldiers working together, and you can see the potential for an accidental swap.

Therefore, they made it relatively easy to match things back up.

When parts from different guns are swapped, they often have to be force matched. Sometimes you'll see an electropencil scratch marked number. This probably was done when a part was force matched to fit, perhaps by an arsenal, gunsmith or owner.

Marc

John,
The number under the S# on the barrel is 8,82. It is the bore measurement in millimeters from land to land.