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inherited
Can any one tell me a little about this Luger. My grand father gave it to me before he died. He loved this gun and now I do too. Is it a collectable or a shooter. All #'s match except the mag. He brought it back from WWII, where he picked it off a German soldure.
Thanks Enzo http://forum.lugerforum.com/lfupload/luger10_copy1.jpg |
It would be helpful if you could show us a pic of the top and other side if you can
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Curly1 were you able to see the pics
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post information so we can help. Don't use just pictures (and only one shows). tell us the year stamped on it, the proofs / acceptance on the right, the toggle marking, etc.
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Luger Identification Form
1. S/42 2. 1938 3. Circle checkerd hollow center 4. Not present 5. present 6. 9mm 7. (? )(chechered)(? ) (no insignia) 8. (?) (Gesichert) 9. (Proof marks- breech left side #46 -from incignia list- 2 eagles with #63 underneith, third eagle more like #45 only no #underneith----Barrel left side eagle same as third on breach----frame close to barrel bottom side cursive K 10. 4'' 11. n/a 12. open, V (rear) tryangle with ridges (front) 13. Aluminum bottom, cursive O and an X---eagle and # 37 on mag body Particular specimen 1. S/42 2. 75% 3. no straw 4. excelent 5. very good 6. all matching except mag 7. no 9. no |
Your Luger is made in the Mauser factory. Not much more to say about it from the provided data.
It's a nice piece of history and you are lucky to have one! From the one picture, it looks very dry. With some surface rust and pitting.. think it's time you take it apart and oil it in well. Perhaps soak it in Kroil over night, and 'rubb' it in with oil afterwards. You can also carefully remove the grips and look for any markings on the inside. Think they look a bit too 'single colored' to come from the s/42. Welcome btw:) |
Nice Luger! As Tac & Morgan suggested, get some good gun oil & let it soak. Some soft scrubbing should remove some of the surface rust that is forming and prevent the gun from further pitting/deteriorating.
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A very honest looking Luger, just like I like them.
Most of the rust will go off with regular oil if you spend some time on it. Rubbing is the key.. and then some more.. and when you think you're finish, do it twice as long. ;) I'm sure it will turn out great. |
clean!
Oil and clean, than you will have nice luger. With oil (I use WD-40) and copper coin you can clean rust.
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WD-40 will work, but any of the true gun oils you can buy at a gun store or at Wal-mart will work better. WD-40 is a cleaner, not a lubricant, so clean, then follow up with an oil...
Here is a report on WD-40, it works, but not as well as other oils... http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html from the net, what others say about WD-40... Quote:
http://kalashnikov.guns.ru/wwwboard/messages/4955.html http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m...45/ai_55605512 |
Thanks for the responses every one. I am having trouble disassembling the Luger. I am following the step by step instructions found on this site. The hangup is encountered when I try to use the blunt end of a screwdriver to remove the safty catch, step #4 any suggestions.
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yes, relieve the pressure first. I always push the muzzle against my leg, then the take down lever will move down. DO NOT FORCE IT WITH A SCREWDRIVER, OR YOU'LL SNAP IT OFF.
You can also push the receiver back with one hand while you manipulate the take down lever. I hope you are not trying to take the safety "catch" off? You can, but there is no need. I have seldom taken a luger all the way down, it simply is not required, nor needed in my opinion. Even for a "new" gun, I take it down to its most basic, parts, but ones that only require a take down tool. I know others take every gun completely apart and ultra clean it. ED |
Thanks for all your help Ed. How far should I take the luger down. The instructions go pretty far. I don't know for sure how deep the cleaning has ever been preformed. I would like to strip it and soak it. How long should it soak. what should I scrub it with. Are there any videos that a novice like me can take notes from.
Thanks Enzo |
I prefer 0000 steel wool & MMC (Molecular Metal Conditioners) its a reddish oil. Works fantastic. Breakfree also works well to Oil/Clean... Think you'll have one sharp Luger when she's all cleaned up!!
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I use bronze wool or OOOO steel wool soaked in WD-40. That has worked well for me in removing surface rust.
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Sounds like the way I have been doing it, pushing it back with my right hand only. Using the left to takedown the lever and remove sideplate. Also illustrated in various manuals..
Not long ago, posted pictures of my christmas gift, police Luger with a broken takedown lever. Also I remember another guy here recently having a broken takedown lever.. So as Ed say's, it IS possible to brake it! |
My old shooter is limber so I just press the barrel with my left hand and flick down the takedown lever. But my 41 byf is so stiff I usually field strip it by pulling back the toggle over an empty magazine to lock the toggle then remove the magazine and turn the take down lever. Then lower the toggle before removing the side plate then receiver.
Man I'd sure hate to break a takedown in the Luger; I hope you figured out a way to safely get the shaft out, Steinar! |
As posted by Tac Foley (and I think the same method as mentioned by Steinar), it is easy to retract the receiver enough to rotate the takedown lever. Remove the magazine, and with the safety off, grip the frame and toggle knobs as shown in the following photo provided by Tac. Just squeeze so that the barrel/receiver group slides back until the toggle knobs contact the frame ramps and then rotate the takedown lever with your other hand. It works just as well for toggle-lock and grip safety Lugers.
http://forum.lugerforum.com/lfupload/takedown_grip.jpg |
Greetings, Gentlemen,
Hold in right hand as if to fire, with booger hook off of banger switch, just push the muzzle against the edge of workbench or anything solid, move the cannon back about 1/4". The take down lever is now free to turn down with left thumb. Rescinded the rocket science part. I apoligize. |
Good point Ralph, thanks, your way is better,
Ed |
I think it was a miracle when I found this sight. So much knowlege in one place is really hard to find. After I strip the luger down you said to soak it in oil. Does that mean to submerge the parts in an oil bath, or to heavely coat the parts in oil. Also for how long. tomarrow I am going to pick up some steel wool 0000 and get started. I suppose the oil soaks in so far, I use the steel wool tho remove the oil soaked rust, and repeat until I remove all rust. I will use caution with the steel wool, not pressing down or rubbing the same area too long. There seems to be some pitting where rust has taken hold and those areas will probably prove to be the hardest areas to remove the rust.
Thanks to all who replied Enzo |
MFC those videos are great, thanks alot man
Enzo |
Enzo,
Use a penny to scrape the really tough areas as Croluger suggesed. Your right about the 0000 steel wool, don't rub in one spot too much with it, but definitly use it. Make sure the metal is very wet with solvent while doing this, and when the solvent gets rusty wipe it off and apply some fresh solvent. Your going to be grinning fom ear too ear when you see how good your luger looks compaired too before. I got those videos from someone on this forum. Just passing on a good deed. If a picture is worth a thousand words, how many is a video worth? Mike C. |
I have never used a penney but if you flatten the mouth of a shell case it gives you a nice square brass scraping tool that can be used on the heavier rust scale. Also, just as suggested with the steel wool, use a generous amount of oil when scraping which will keep the scale in suspension and make it easier to wipe of as you go. The copper or brass will leave a bit of color on the gun but that is mainly on the rust part and will come right off with oil and 0000 steel wool.
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Thats great, thanks for replying. What about the "soak it in oil" part. Does this mean to heavely coat or literally soak in an oil bath? Also for how long, 5 hours one week?
Enzo MFC your right about the videos, they are priceless. Especially to some one like me who has never preformed this intrecate operation. |
Just DO NOT soak the grips in oil... remove them carefully first.
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Thanks John, I was extreemly carful when taking the grips off. Man those things looked and felt very fragel. I have it almost all the way apart now. The recoil lever pin is stuck pretty good, so I am letting it soak until it cooperates.
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Enzo,
Put it in a ziploc bag and spray it with oil (WD-40 which has a solvent in it) until it is dripping wet making sure you get into all crevices. That should be enough without actually submerging it. The next day blast it with gunscrubber to blow out as much rust as possible and do it all over again if you think it needs it. Use a good gun oil in the final process instead of WD-40, because as the solvents evaporate, it thickens. Mike C. |
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