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toggle lock?
What is a toggle lock? Just curious. Easy to repair if broken?
Thanks |
I believe it can refer to the part in the middle of the toggle on the right of a M1900 Luger that clips over an extension of the frame when the pistol is in battery. It prevents the toggle from rising without first moving the receiver back on the frame.
Alternately, it could refer to the small pin that holds the toggle's axle in place on the M1906 and later Lugers. P51 of the Lugerforum FAQ document discusses this. |
The luger in question is a DWM 1900 American Eagle in decent condition. Ad says it is fine mechanically. So, safe to shoot with broken toggle lock? Can it be repaired?
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Safe to shoot, yes; if all else is ok.
Repair- possible; expensive and would require re-finish of at least part or all of the receiver. Would help to know the price, if low enough - fine; ignore the broken latch. If you want a perfect specimen for collecting- move on. JMHO. |
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In this case, it's also a question of what part of the toggle lock is broken. If the small projection on the top of the frame rail is damaged that would be worst case. It can be removed, but it's silver soldered in and the heating to get it out would damage the finish. If its simply a case of the latch in the toggle being broken or missing it become a quest to find a replacement part. But actually replacing it is quick and easy - no tools required. |
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The price is $1995. I think that is a little high?
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I "ass-umed" it was the piece on the frame, maybe not. Still expensive either way.:cool: |
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(That's what I paid total for my M1900AE from Simpson's). :p |
The most common damage to the orig M1900 toggle lock is the worn or broken off internal arm at the top that retains the center toggle axel. So without it, the axel can drift out to the right and jam the action. Short of a correct replacement, one can install a postwar axel (available @$5) which can be pressed into place. TH
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Ok all these posts...read them all and still don't know what a toggle lock is. Did
everybody have a massive camera fail at the same time? |
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Here's how it works...That paddle-shaped piece in the middle of the toggle knob has a hook at the bottom. That square-looking part on the frame rail also has a hook. They engage each other, preventing the toggle from being lifted UNLESS you pull the toggle train straight back about 3/16" BEFORE lifting. If you try to yank it up like on a P08, it will break one or the other hooks. |
Rich (or Ron!), what's up with the pic of a toggle lock on the New Model toggles that are checkered, not dished? If the flat mainspring's common failure to keep the toggle down is the reason for having a toggle lock, wouldn't the pistol in the pic have a coil spring, and consequently not need one?
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I appreciate it. I guess the really old ones are the only ones that have it.
Glad my three don't because I would have broken them already.:) |
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In the time it took me to write that last paragraph, I had already posted it. :rolleyes: |
Wow Sheepherder, that made me tired reading about it. Heck I had to take a nap!
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Here's my 1900AE toggle lock... |
Really an archaic design. Glad they got rid of it. Nice pictures though thanks for
taking the time. Lets you see how that works. |
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