Regarding Freckling~
 

Joe Salter has a pretty 1920 luger carbine for sale~ https://www.joesalter.com/category/p...ine-Model-1920 He mentions "Freckling" and at a particular place on the gun.What is it? What causes it? Can it be prevented or removed? Who much do it affect the overall value? Eric Thank You!!

He mentions it is 'a few tiny spots' in the grooves of the rifling. IMO it would not detract from the carbine in any way. I'm pretty sure I would not even notice it, or care if I did. :)

"Freckling" is a dealer's euphemism for rust.
Norm

Luger acne!!

More like rash.

Freckling- usually used to describe spots in finish that look like "negative" freckles = missing finish
may be caused by rust or a fine spray of strong acid or base; rust

Frosting- usually used to describe a topping on a cake or cupcake; in describing a luger bore a
euphemism for rust; rust

JMHO, ;)

What is the primary cause!!!Ammo or lack of care? I often see it noticed on the end of the barrel! Is that where it appears or where its most noticed?

Heres how another forum deals with it!! http://www.coltforum.com/forums/colt...-clean-up.html

Another~https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J41c-uWChmM

The whole idea behind using mild abrasives like 0000 steel wool is that browish/reddish rust is much softer than a blued surface. I have verified under a microscope that rust on Lugers is in fact quite soft - almost like a powder loosely attached to the surface, and that blue has far higher resistance to mild abrasion.

The trick is to use light pressure and lubricant with whatever abrasive you select, so that there is not enough pressure to damage the original blue. As Eric's video above shows, different abrasives are available. Cloth, polishing compound and 0000 steel wool are all types of abrasives from mild to more aggressive.

As rust progresses pits form and begin increasing in depth. IMO the difference between freckling and pitting is simply depth. As pits progress in depth, steel wool and similar simply cannot get to the bottom of the depression to remove the loose rust.

Poor storage, lack of care, neglect, not enough oil, etc., etc.,:eek:

Norme you nailed it;, these euphemisms are funny though, like just recently here somebody called it: "nice age patina" ... unfortunately on guns rust never sleeps :nono:

It is interesting that the finish on early Lugers is/was rust bluing.
https://members.rennlist.com/lugerman/RustBluing1.JPG

I have often wondered that if you encountered a gun with patches of light powdery red rust and not significantly pitted, if you de-greased it and boiled the part to change the oxide, once it was carded would it turn out reasonably good looking? Food for thought maybe.
Ron

The Difference Between Original Blue And Reblued~

Were Luger cleaner kits issued to German troops like the Swiss?

Ted without searching somewhere, whats the difference with rust bluing as opposed to?

Salt Blueing. Salt blueing is a hot, chemical process, as opposed to controlled oxidation. I suspect that your second Erfurt has been Salt Blued, Eric. That's why it looks shinier and darker than your original. A quality rust blueing would have made the second pistol look much more like your original, albeit darker, given a finish with no age wear.

I believe alanint is spot on. I too looked at that barrel and thought salt blued. The interior of both should be in the white steel, like one of them displays. A lot of times if it is a "bubba blue" , the edges would be rounded too much and the safety not painted in. When you look at the flat surfaces, they wont look "flat" but wavy reflecting light. A bubba blue is easy to spot, yours looks better than that, but a reblue for certain. Also, they should have a rainbow or step strawing/fire blue color on the top of the hold open, not the spring that should be white.

Thank You My Friend~