Ron, Thanks a million for the information. I located Thors instructions but pictures would had been very nice. I am going to order the mainspring and guide from Tom Heller, another member of our forum. Then the fun will begin...thanks, and I'll keep you posted

Ron, This message might come up twice, but it didnt post the first time so her I am again. I found the instructions that Thor put in the forum. Pictures would have been soooo nice. I am ordering the mainspring and guide from Tom Heller, another member of our forum. When the parts come in, the fun begins...Thanks

Stanley, if you find this, you realized that there is a 2nd page!

And as a moderator, it tricked me too! [img]confused.gif[/img]

Stanley, look at my previous message, the links to the pictures that went with the text is there. To view each picture just click on the link. Wear eye protection!

Stanley - glad you found Thor's instructions, saves me some cutting and pasting! Also hope you have found his pictures posted above.

Thor - thank you for digging out the pictures. They really help along with your great instructions.

The best to both of you.

Stanley, I'll throw this in just in case, while you are waiting on the parts start working on the inside rails of the "canon" (top assembly),the sides of the bolt where they ride on the inside rails, and the top rails on the frame. The inside rails on the cannon assembly need to be as smooth as glass. To check for rough spots, attach the toggle to the bolt, insert it in the down/flat position in top of the frame, don't need to use the rear pin, just have it so you can slide it in and out. You will feel the tight/rough spots. I used polishing compound, fine steel wool, and finally a dremel jewelry polishing attachment to clean it. After I had it fairly well done, I cleaned it and marked it all with a permanent magic marker. Then inserted and slid it back & forth a few times. Where the marker rubbed off I worked it more.

rk

Dah!! I feel like such a dummy. Thanks for the heads up on there being a page two. I got all of the text as well as the pictures that Thor was so nice to send. I have already worked on the side rails to smooth them out, but when I am able, I will double check them using the advise that road kill gave. i hope that oneday soon we will be able to bring this progect to a conclusion. One more thought. Is there supposed to be a spring to eject the clip when the clip release is pushed. Just curious. Thanks to all...stan sometimes known as millman

The magazine release button should have a small flat leaf spring that fits under the lip of the button. Its about 3/8" long, very slender. Its bowed slightly and the outward pressure on the mag release button keeps it in place. There is no spring to eject the magazine, some are very tight fitting and have to be removed with a definite downward pull. Others drop freely when released.

rk

Hello again to all of my friends at the forum. I thought that I would update you on where I'm at with my restoration project. I have disassembled the gun and cleaned it up to the best of my ability. All of the parts seem to be moving freely as they should. I recently ordered the main spring and guide, which hopefully will be the last peice of the puzzle. I do have a question. I have been told , by the local gun dealer, that my Luger is a 9mm. He even found a 9mm clip for me. But I have tried to drop a 9mm bullet into the loading chamber { barrel }, but it will not go all of the way in. I have cleaned the inside of the barrel using a wooded dowel, emory cloth as well as lapping compound { a mild abrasive }. The inside looks clean and polished, with the rifling clearely visable.Could this be a 7.65 Luger? Or do I have to work on the barrel some more? Any hints? Anyway, things are coming along. My son has even joined in with me. The wife is still not interested. Oh well. Thanks again, stan

Stick a 30 caliber bullet 7.65mm or about.308"- .310") in the muzzle, if it falls in it is a 9mm (36 caliber+-), if it is tight and wont go in, it is a 30 Luger.

I don't believe anyone has warned you about guns that were in a fire, yet.....BE CAREFUL!

The temper might be gone and the gun would be unsafe to fire if that is the case. Usually, if the fire was that bad, the springs will all have lost their temper and might be why the main spring is missing?

Orv

O. L. [Orv] Reichert
P O Box 67
Vader WA 98593-0067
360 245 3492
Mr.P38@localaccess.com

No diet will remove all the fat from your body because the brain is entirely fat. Without a brain, you might look good, but all you could do is run for public office." --George Bernard Shaw

This post belonged in a different thread so I removed it.

Steve

Well, Merry Christmas to all. My main spring and guide came in on Christmas eve and I came straight home to install it. I used Thors' directions and pictures to help me through the process.He says in his text that he has got the whole installation process down to 5 min. Well, it took me more like 30 to 40 min. About 20 min was used for my son to go up in the attic and retreive the mainspring since it shot up through the ceiling during my first try at installing it.{ only kidding!} Although it did spring loose one time when I was trying to fit the spring and guide into the frame of the handle.After that , my son stood behind the door and peeked every now and then to see if I was making progress. It actually took about 5 trys to finish the whole process, but I was finally able to get it done. I'm hoping that the spring will loosen up a little bit over time since it is very hard to pull the toggle back. But, all things considered, it is alot closer to being a shooter now than it has been in who knows how many years. I am a little concerned about the fire and how it might have affected the metal. I plan on having it examined before I would ever consider shooting it as I do need both of my hands to make a living.I will continue to keep you posted and I do thank all of you for the advise and for all of the helpful hints. Talk to you later, stan

As Orv suggested, if it was actually fire damaged, I think I would have a nice looking functioning, but not shooter Luger.

I like my fingers and eyes and I bet you do to <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="eek.gif" />

Is there a process whereby one can determine if "fire damage" occured? Someone who is metallurgically gifted might be able to help with this...

Also, even if one was prudent, could the "cannon" assembly (ie, the entire upper half) be replaced to create a shooter?

I read this thread with "oohs" and "aaahs" as first the slide moved, then the bolt/breechblock, then the rest (excellent pics of the mainsproing! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" /> ) Another 'Net drama unfolds... :) perhaps the 'pistole' is destined to rest-in-peace on the wall...but the saga will continue!

John,

The canon could probably be replaced with an undamaged one to make a shooter, but canons, themselves, are not cheap. Thor proved that the canon can be shot without using the grip frame.

Thor (Ted) or Hugh might be able to advise you from their experience which parts are case hardened, These probably include the receiver (especially the chamber area), the breach block, the toggle and the barrel. You could test them with a file to check the hardness, but that would mark them up if they aren't scarred up already.

I guess I wouldn't take a chance on shooting the gun if I had any doubts about it. However, I like an excuse to buy another gun (or maybe a couple of them), like "Honey, I left it out in the sun and it may have gotten too hot, maybe I need a new one."

Good luck, but be careful--these things aren't toys. Mine get shot,,a lot.