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-   -   Luger Lubrication (https://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=16707)

Margana 12-09-2008 01:50 AM

One final note: You might consider storing your guns in a gun "sock" or "sack". Midway USA has a good price on these gun sacks. These look like large stockings which have silicone lubricant in them. They are priced well (about US$15 for 5 gun sacks. These seem to give an additional degree of protection. Surprisingly, the rifle sized sacks are about the same price! I keep my guns in a safes that are in the crawl space of my house (the "crawl space" is actually large enough you can stand upright). SO far, I have not had any rust issues.....

Sieger 12-09-2008 03:59 AM

Powders
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by The Virginian (Post 151815)
BTW, do you have any other loads with different powders that have similar results?

Hi:

The two best powders for me have been:

Power Pistol
SR4756

You can get these two powders from Graffs, Midway, etc.

Using the method I sent you in the PM, start your work with these.

Unfortunately, my loading data for these are out of state and I have no current access, but these are "the two" you will like, believe you me!!!

Sieger

The Virginian 12-09-2008 11:58 AM

Hey, no problem I trust your judgement since we are dealing with finiky Lugers and if one load works in one it mostlikely will in another.

Rich Moran 04-18-2009 06:34 AM

FYI: CorrosionX is produced by a gentleman known as Mr. VanGilder. He also invented Corrosion Block.

They are both very similar in their make up. Part of the component in the blend is mineral spirits if memory serves me correct.

Because of this, breakdown will occur sooner than a purer refined prodcut that contains no mineral spirits. Mineral spirits can gum on breakdown.

CLP is another that does similar as examples shown to me by military armourers have shown seperation in tropical climate.

WD-40? It is a good inexpensive degreaser and only lasts for a few days at best for any benifit of lube or corrosion prevention.

I have had great success with CarWellCP-90/RustCOP/T-32. With this name they wanted everyone to remember them by having the longest name it seems, but seriously, the name can be any one of the nomeclature these folks put on their labels.

B4 I go further, I sell the stuff, and have used everything out there under the sun and as well. We have sold this stuff in 55 gallon drums to the US Army and anyone else who wants it.

It's on Strykers, HMMV's, at one time 105's and 155's, can't get past the arms manufacturer......since they thought they owned CLP.

Guess what guys, we have that 2 now, under the CORTEC VpCI (Vapor pahse Corrosion Inhibitor designed by the US Navy sometime around 44-45).

BTW, USMC equipment is treated with the product as well.

We have supported the local shooting community in Hawaii for over a decade with excellent results.

Won't post more here at this point as I don't want to be over obtrusive.

If anyone feel like they need some help with corrosion related issues, rust removal without bluing damage and long term storage or recently shoot and requires immediate preservation without cleaning please PM me.

Mod, if there is issue with my thread as it is commercial in nature, please remove it as I understand complications.

In closing, I have only posted once to this forum about an S/42 I had the pleasure of being in company with. It was some time ago so I am not certain if that is around yet or in cyber space.

I've just saw in my sign off that the post has been lost to time. Will look for images and repost for everyones enjoyment.

USMC_Spike 07-09-2009 09:31 AM

For standard cleaning I've used WD-40 with good results.

For difficult cleaning, I've tried naptha, but it just doesn't cut it.
I'm talking rough baked on burned up stuff here.

SO

Use Berrymans B12 Chem Tool. Oh yeah, it cleans the crap
out of your weapon.


CAUTION

Don't use it in doors! It has a high concentration of Toluene!
Toluene causes irreversible brain damage, possible coma
and death if inhaled for too long a time.

It happened to a a couple of acquaintance engineers over
at the bat wing company, serious stuff.

LUB-RA-CA-TION

For grease I use Shooters Choice all weather grease, its red.

I also use Tetra Gun, lube. I should have used the grease too but
didn't think about it...so the red grease is it in my Luger. I want to
head on out and go shooting today. I"ll keep ya'll linformed.


Regards,

Spike

Pappy 07-24-2009 06:53 PM

Sperm oil..
 
Question; What was the lubricant originally specified for the Luger?? Sperm oil..

Anybody have an original owners Manual??

Vlim 07-25-2009 06:32 AM

The original lubricant was vaseline. Seriously.

policeluger 07-25-2009 09:40 AM

Vaseline in a cold weather enviroment ? really.....

Vlim 07-25-2009 12:33 PM

Yes, that was one of the problems :)

policeluger 07-25-2009 01:42 PM

....and the crap that would stick to it.......

Vlim 07-25-2009 02:40 PM

Well, it was comparable to the tinned can and can opener issue. First they invented the tinned cans, found that while being a perfectly good food preserving container, opening them was a bit of a challenge. The can opener was invented quite a while afterwards.

The same situation is visible in the modern semi-autos like the Parabellum pistol. The need for a good allround lubricant and preservative came after the introduction of the pistol and the experience that the lubricants around had too many drawbacks.

Michael Zeleny 08-28-2009 03:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vlim (Post 162480)
The original lubricant was vaseline. Seriously.

Arguably, the original lubricant (and cleaner) was yellow Waffenfett grease issued by the Swiss Army. The high grade of Swiss Luger preservation is attributable to its use. The current Swiss issue, black moly Automatenfett grease is even more effective, if not as aesthetically pleasing.

Vlim 08-28-2009 07:50 AM

Michael,

In Switzerland, yes. The original Parabellum manuals mention vaseline as the lubricating material, however.

The high grade of Swiss gun condition is mainly a result of the fact that the Swiss never went to war and that they had regular refurbishing and maintenance schemes.

lboos 08-28-2009 06:24 PM

I talked to this one vender who is a reg. at our local gun shows that deal's only with German ww2 hand guns, and has been doing it for many years And his gun's all way's look great, I ask him what does he use, he said three and one oil, and that's all. I don't think i've heard anyone here mention Three and one oil. is it just because it's old? any one here ever use it?

Ron Wood 08-28-2009 06:36 PM

3-in-1 is just a lightweight lubricating oil used on everything from sewing machines to fishing reels to squeeky door hinges. It does give a nice sheen to a gun and probably inhibits rust. But it is also slow evaporating which attracts and holds dust, which in turn can hold moisture and/or make the gun nasty to handle after it has been stored for a while. For a gun that is handled and used regularly it probably is a suitable gun oil. Frequent wipe downs will keep a 3-in-1 treated gun looking OK, just keep it off the grips.

lboos 08-28-2009 08:39 PM

Ron, I will take your advice, But!...three in one sure smell's a lot better then break free or some of these other super lub's of today. Thanks....lboos.

andwaahs 05-24-2012 07:35 AM

Anyone use balistol?

sheepherder 05-24-2012 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lboos (Post 163973)
I don't think i've heard anyone here mention Three and one oil. is it just because it's old? any one here ever use it?

I use 3in1 as a cutting oil; for threading specifically...I also rub it on steel I'm machining, in between operations (which can be several days to months), to inhibit rust...

For shooting, I use LSA (a US military lube [Lubricant, Small Arms]), which was specifically developed for arms with dissimilar metals in contact (M16 --> aluminum & steel)...For storage, I use SAE 10w-30 engine oil...(unused)...Probably not the best, since it has additives, but it's readily available (drug stores, supermarkets, gas stations) while the dedicated gun oils are a half hour's drive away (at $4+ a gallon)... :mad:

I think someone already mentioned it, but WD-40 is not a lubricating oil...It's good for quick cleaning of dirty/chippy metal, and I do use it at the range to give my guns a quick clean, but it's not for storage...

...Plus I like the smell... :p

alanint 05-24-2012 08:29 AM

I keep hearing of the use of WD40. As a cleaner/degreaser it is fine. Despite that the "WD" stands for "water displacement" I find that WD40 is a very poor water displacer and should never be used as a rust preventative, lubricant or preservative. The product tries to do too many things at once and none of them particularly well.

sheepherder 05-24-2012 08:35 AM

Back in the 70's, when I was an SCCA member and attempting to race my Austin-Healey 100/6, we had a local engineer give a presentation on engine oil (for racing)...One interest thing I still remember was that aviation engine oil was additive-free...because aviation engines were total-loss systems and additives served no purpose...

Doesn't contribute anything useful to this thread, I know...just some of that useless information that is taking up space in my overcrowded memory... :D


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