Thanks all. Well I'm to do the last paperwork stages and hopefully pick it up.

soon
jerry
"gvf"

The procedure actually varies by county in NYS. Some accept electronic receipts from the transferring dealer, which can save a trip to the county clerk. ...And some do not. For those counties, you'd need to pay for the gun to get a receipt, register it and add it to the permit--which is what generates a purchase coupon, then return to the dealer to turn in the coupon and have the background check, after which it is transferred to you.

Mine, Schuyler, gives out a spare purchase coupon ahead of time so that a purchase/transfer can be made before the gun is actually registered or put on my permit. The receipt from the dealer covers this aspect temporarily, for transit home with the gun. What I usually do is obtain the serial number from the seller's pics and register it before it arrives, adding it to my permit. When I pick it up at the dealer's, I give him the coupon, get the background check, and take 'er home--just one trip. I'm always one coupon ahead, so free to make a purchase from any dealer in-state--before the paperwork--and take the gun home immediately, to be registered at the next opportunity.

I live in Erie County and have never heard of anything but physically going the Permit Office after filling out transfer forms at FFL and that's where you pay for the FFL service, whatever it may be.

What you describe sounds like a lot less like a pain. Wish we had it but don't think so. Next time I'll check.

Thanks
Jerry
"gvf"

What's good 9mm ammo for that caliber Luger. I read it should be between 115gr and 124gr. But I've also read you need something stronger than usual.

It's FMJ I know; what shape bullet is best? Round nose?

Thanks, wanna get that right before I shoot it.

Also, I've read Lugers are not the most reliable shooters/ That true?

Anyone else notice that the witness mark doesn't exactly line up?
Nice one, BTW.

What's good 9mm ammo for that caliber Luger. I read it should be between 115gr and 124gr. But I've also read you need something stronger than usual.
It's FMJ I know; what shape bullet is best? Round nose?
Thanks, wanna get that right before I shoot it.
Also, I've read Lugers are not the most reliable shooters/ That true?

Don't go Plus P or NATO, just Winchester white box or even Sellier and Beloit. Round nose FMJ is fine. The hyper velocity stuff is hard on the old girls...
They may not be as smooth functioning as Glocks, etc, but set up correctly with good mags and ammo Lugers can be quite reliable and WAY more fun to shoot. But it sometimes takes some experimenting to get there.
dju

Alphabet Commercials always came from the factory in 7.65mm/.30 Luger cal. They were rebarreled in 9mm for police use. This affects the witness mark.

--Dwight

I'm in Niagara County and our process is exactly like Dave describes here -

...And only then can you take it home. If bought out of state and shipped to your FFL receiver, no state/county sales tax [8%].

We pay the FFL receiver for the FFL transfer & NICS check, not the permit clerk. Registration is $3.00 per visit (any number of additions/subtractions). We just changed over to the plastic wallet-sized permit cards. And they keep changing them (thumbprint, no thumbprint; full page, bordered; etc).

Is Dianne Arnett still the Erie County Pistol Permit Clerk??? Or one of the clerks???

I've never seen her unless she's at a desk. They're used to be a real nice guy who seemed in charge, African American older man, couldn't be nicer. I find all those who work in the Permit Office are very friendly and helpful. Yes we pay the Permit Office the same for paperwork. We just have the plastic card with photo and profession, no prints, and any County restrictions that are put on it. Mine is "Unrestricted".

For those not familiar with NY State Permits, the State Permit is for Carry, but counties are given leeway to put restrictions on permits, like "Target and Hunting Only". They are county ordinances not state gun law. Some counties use them, some don't, and some, like mine, after a year of a restriction are pretty willing to take that off and the Permit becomes Unrestricted.

To all, my next task is to learn my new digital camera well enough to take and post some photos.

--------------------------------------------
The only boo-boo I see on the gun to date is small chip upper left of one grip, makes that grip move slightly when you grip the gun, about 1/8th" back and forth. I cleaned the grips but they are pretty dark wood anyway. The wood is as dry as a desert. I'll put some conditioner on them.

The parts I can see, on top of the Seller's photos of various parts, all show the same number. The mag though has no number. So I don't know if it's original but I have a sense it is, same condition as the rest of the gun and if all the other parts match it's an indication the mag does as well. It's steel "color" with wood insert at bottom including the "circle of wood".

There's a good bit of finish left. Based on that I'd say the gun was not shot a lot. I still need to take it down and clean/lube. It looks pretty good in there, almost like it was cleaned and lubed recently - or just not worn much.

So, is that true of mine? Do you know who the manufacturer could have been. I've yet to find the gun's S/N listed anywhere, though I believe a poster in another web forum has a "Blank Toggle" and has run across my serial somewhere. I wrote him but no response as yet.

I do believe I answered this on the other forum, well actually it was earlier in this thread , but will try again.

The manufacturer would have been DWM or as it has been pointed out at that time it was BKIW.

Your serial number is in the range that DWM produced, don't expect to find the individual number listed . If someone listed all the numbers there would be thousands.

The numbers ran from 1 to 9999 and then 1 to 9999 with an "a" under it, then 1 to 9999 with a "b" under, etc. the letters went all the way to "v" , IIRC.

So there are a 'bunch' of alphabet commercial P 08s out there,
some with original 7.65mm barrels and others re-barreled to 9mm P, and later ones made a 9mm P. I believe your pistol in the "u" block was made originally as a 9 mm.

Your pistol 4685 u is now called called a '29 commercial, being made in about 1929. It was made in 9mm P according to most sources. They were formerly called "Sneaks" as many or most have a blank chamber and blank middle toggle.
The pistol was sold via the Weimar army or directly to the Weimar police, who added the sear and iit became identifiable as a police pistol.

I have pistol 4506 u. In Mr. Grubers book, Police Lugers, a close pistol number 4583 u is listed in the observed '29 commercials.
It has markings similar to yours and is also marked to the Schupo of Merseburg, see page 133 in Police Lugers by Tinker and Gruber.

I do hope now you can stop searching for a "listing" of your number, as I said Mr. Gruber will likely add your number to his list and if published again in may in fact make a list!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwight Gruber View Post
Alphabet Commercials always came from the factory in 7.65mm/.30 Luger cal. They were rebarreled in 9mm for police use. This affects the witness mark.

--Dwight
Your Luger is a police pistol in 9mm, so, yes.

--Dwight

Dwight, my observations suggest that at least some of those manufactured for the police in 1928-29, after the departure of the IMKK, were originally manufactured with 9-mm barrels. Many of these show absolutely no signs of re-barreling. Apparently, DWM began ignoring the restrictions once there was no enforcement.

Somehow I missed this post and am most grateful I recovered it!
Thank you very much!

Don,

I don't think we are going to come to an agreement about this one.

--Dwight

Here is an interesting page on the 1929 Police Lugers from Luger Gun-boards. You may already know it. It deals with
1929 "u" suffix Ländjagerei P.08's. [sic]. I think of some of you posted on it. Keep in mind the thread refers to specific examples of this group of guns.

The photos attached I can't view. Has to do with Gun-boards screwing up my registration, an attempt made some weeks past.

A good point is raised, in 1929 Hitler was not yet in power and the poster who brought this up stated that the "Sneaks" started with the "g" Lugers. I know zip about "g" Lugers. Of course the then German Gov't could have started some rearmament themselves with Nazi influence which in '29 was a gathering force, and more so after the Depression began.

Here be the link:

http://luger.gunboards.com/showthrea...agerei-P-08-s&

Wow..I cannot believe the hoops you guys have to jump through! So glad I live in Fla!!

They keep changing the permits themselves. I attached a scan of the old permit with attached purchase coupon (new permit underneath). Up until a few years ago, this was what you carried. Too big for your wallet, and if you folded it and it wore in half, it was not considered legal. Now we have a plastic wallet sized card. It has a color photo, and until recently had your thumbprint. They eliminated the thumbprint.

They also eliminated your keeping a purchase coupon to carry for a future purchase. Now the couplon is issued to you only after producing a receipt from the seller [or FFL receiver] and must be given to the seller before you can receive the handgun [and after the NICS check].

In the past, you were also encouraged to have your spouse get a permit and have all your handguns put on it. The police will receive notice of your death and be on your doorstep within 2 days to confiscate your handguns. Now, the spouse can no longer have your handguns on their permit. Or receive them after your death. Transfer has to be through an FFL holder with a NICS chack.

You could also get additional purchase coupons to take to a dealer or gun show. I still have several old coupons - no longer allowed.

New York State: If there's not enough criminals, the State will manufacture them.

/rant

Dwight, this wouldn't be as much fun if we agreed on everything. I've learned so much as a result of our "discussionments." :thumbup:
Since the Alphabet DWMs began with the suffix "i", I question this poster's knowledge of the subject.

I figured he meant the "G" date lugers, Ks too.:confused:

Perhaps but it would still be wrong. The K and G date code Lugers were manufactured by Mauser in 1934-35.

So, in order to register my new gun, I drove for a half-hour from my home to my range and store which I use as my FFL dealer. They had already been sent the gun by the Seller's FFL (which was his store). There I went through various paperwork and was NICS-Checked. Then I drove for 45-50 min to the Pistol Permit Office downtown and turned in the paperwork from the FFL Dealer and the Pistol Permit Office gave my Release Coupon and my permit back now with the Luger and serial number printed on the back of the card. Then I drove the 45-50 min back to my range and store FFL Dealer, gave the paperwork from the Permit Office plus my permit with the Luger on it to them. They gave it back and Then I was given my gun legally in a ritual blood-letting ceremony where my blood is mixed with the blood of my FFL Dealer while range-employees chant.

Then I went home with my "new: Luger.

(Of course the Blood Letting Ceremony was a joke.)

My initial wait for my Permit when I got it in 2007 was 9 months.


With all of this though, I actually like a lot of my state's regulations though some are nullified by something out of NY's control. But that gets into political hot potatoes which very happily these forums seem free of.

I think the electronic registration for guns our colleague wrote about is very good and my county will likely get it if some others have it now.

Getting hung up and wasting time getting photos of that newbie Luger. Re-Assembly after easy field-strip. But reassembling something is wrong, I'm sure me. Half way through the reassembly, when putting the "slide" back on the receiver along the runners, I can get the Coupling Link to go where it should, just behind the two prongs of the Recoil Spring Lever.

But I imagine the curve of the coupling link needs to slip between the prongs when the slide is moved back the last bit. But mine is not free-moving enough to do that without some help. Probably a little gunk up there though I did blow it out and lubed. With the grips off it's no problem. I just move the the Coupling link down with a finger, and it slides up to the notches to the top of the Recoil Spring Lever where it should be. Thus the slide is attached to the armature that in turn attaches to the Main-Spring. And the slide has proper tension. Before I learned to "help" the Coupling Link take its proper position, the slide was not attached to the Main-Spring and had no tension.

But after the slide is linked to Main Spring the barrel is frozen, won't budge. So, the next step, putting the little side plate back on is impossible. When it was easy to do that the barrel could move a bit and that helped a lot to get the plate back on.

As well, the barrel cannot be pushed "in" as the direction say in order to move the Take Down Bolt back to a horizontal position.

So I get a slide attached to the the main-spring and has proper tension, or I can complete the last two steps of reassembly (side plate and Take-Down Bolt). But i can't have both. I'm seeing some smith who knows Lugers pretty well. He should spot what I'm doing wrong.

Put the slide on with the gun up-side-down with the hooks to the rear, then right it once the hook is about far enough back, so that it drops in place. Then once hooked place the muzzle down on a soft tabletop, press down on the grip frame and the top will slightly move back under pressure. Then clip the side plate into place and raise the lever to lock it in.
Or look at a youtube video...
dju

If you or someone else had the "S" link out, they may have put it back in "upside down".
It can be done and results in pretty funky assembly/dis-assembly; and it doesn't work right.

If you show a picture with the S link laying to the rear with the upper upside down, we can see if
it is correct or not.

Sorry I can't get you a photo just yet, waiting for time to learn the digital camera I have that's new. Soon.

---------

Found a way: bad photo but I hope OK for our purpose:

https://finnegan.smugmug.com/Portrai....09%20AM-M.jpg

gvf,
took one of mine apart for comparison, Your link looks like it is "stretched" a little, i.e. the engagement bosses are a little farther away from the end of the receiver; or another way to look at it, the arm pointed up in your picture should be at a more acute angle toward the receiver.

This would cause your assembly condition, IMO.

i believe you must buy a new S link and install it.

When you figure out your camera, a picture with a ruler behind and showing the distance from where the rear of the rails end to the link bosses would help confirm.

I hope this makes sense and helps.

Another thing to watch for: I occasionally run into is the installation of a M1900 connecting link (shorter than the P08) in a P08. The pistol will reassamble, but the toggle will not come back far enough to allow a round to be picked up from the mag. TH

Yes I do understand. Thanks very much.

I'll post another pix later today with more of the link visible as well getting better photos soon. That awful photo makes it look more stretched out than it looks in other positions where you can see more

In the meantime if you want, go to Google and search for "Luger P.08 Coupling Link" (without the quote marks). You'll see when the page comes up the first choice says "Images for luger p.08 coupling link". Click on it and a whole page of photos comes up. I can't get the link to come up here or I'd provide it. Some of coupling links shown look like their angles are not very acute. Click on any you want to check more to make sure it's a "Luger Coupling Link" . Sometimes other parts are shown.

Later,
gvf
(Jerry)

hmmmmm.........

2 More Photos:
 

https://finnegan.smugmug.com/Portrai...sd/1/L/2-L.jpg

https://finnegan.smugmug.com/Portrai...sd/1/L/2-L.jpg

Also, I mentioned before that when my slide had no connection to the Main-Spring, it was fixed when I drew the Coupling Link in between and through the two prongs of the Recoil Spring Lever with my finger, because the Coupling Link wasn't free enough to move through on on its own when the slide moved the last little bit back on the rails.

Just wanted to make sure that was right: normally the Coupling Link moves between the Recoil Spring Lever's prongs as the slide moves the last bit backwards on the rails. That make sense?

Thanks
gvf
(Jerry)

Jerry,
sorry but those last two pictures are totally useless.

I still think it is bent.

Thanks.

best I can do with laptop camera.

This is from Google images of P.08 Coupling Links:

https://finnegan.smugmug.com/Portrai...28458-02-L.jpg

I held my own up to the photo, both Coupling Links were exactly the same, same bends. You may be right about being bent post-production but I don't think so based on this and just the look of mine when you see it in actuality. Those other photos make it look straighter than it is in reality.

Until I can get better photos have to leave at that.

Thanks for all your help!
Jerry

That is a good enough picture, but do put in the measurement scale and move the aim point to the center of the S link, we are still seeing it from and angle and not straight on.

This is not my gun or photo of it. This is the photo on Google Images of another Luger which I compared with the same part in my own Luger. They matched perfectly, including the Coupling Links.

Sorry for the confusion.

Best
Jerry

Thanks so much for that instruction, especially placing the Muzzle down and pressing down on the receiver. I never saw that done or read it in any of the many instructions and videos I've seen. They must just have stronger hands and can get the slide back a tad without needing to press the receiver down and have the muzzle on a flat surface.

So, finally I have it reassembled. Until I shoot I wan't know for sure but it seems fine now.

Again much thanks!
Jerry
("gvf")

I got it!
 

An instruction from DavidJayUnden hit the nail on the head for me:

"Put the slide on with the gun up-side-down with the hooks to the rear, then right it once the hook is about far enough back, so that it drops in place. Then once hooked place the muzzle down on a soft tabletop, press down on the grip frame and the top will slightly move back under pressure. Then clip the side plate into place and raise the lever to lock it in.
dju"

See, the problem was no longer the Coupling Link, that was either dropping into place or with grips the off I easily moved it down with my finger. Therefore the slide was now connected to the Main-Spring. The only possible problem is what was mentioned about my link being possibly misshapend. I think it's OK and will find out for sure when I shoot it.

The problem was the barrel seemed frozen, and without being able to move it backward a tad, I couldn't get the side plate on or move the Take-Down Bolt back to a horizontal position. Others must be able to do that without placing the muzzle down. My hands are weak though and I have bad arthritis in the thumb/wrist joints of both hands. (Partly from incorrect hand placement on my guns. Another time for that)

So after only a week and the help of multiple people my Luger is back together!

So thank you all so much. I'm very appreciative of you all going out of your way to help the new kid in school. Back to you after I shoot it and after that with good photos (I hope).

Jerry ("gvf")

Another method I use is to insert an empty mag once the upper is slid on and the hook properly engaged. Pull back on the toggle knobs and it will lock back with the hold-open, allowing installation of the side plate and subsequent rotation of the locking bolt. This eliminates the juggling act required to do these operations with one hand while maintaining all that pressure with the other--a setup which is inherently unstable and may slip if you're not careful. Afterwards, remove the mag, cycle the action, de-c0ck, and you're good.

Hey thanks a lot, sounds a lot easier than the muzzle on table.

(How do you de-**** these by the way?)

I'll try your suggestion next time

Thanks so much,
Jerry
("gvf")