The takedown lever (or locking bolt as some call it) is held in the horizontal position by the force of the slide being pushed forward by the recoil or mainspring.

if you can hold the Luger in your hand and press the muzzle against a hard surface (like a carpeted floor to prevent scratching) and push you should be able to make the slide move to the rear about a half inch if you have no siezed parts... the takedown lever can then be moved 90 degrees clockwise to allow the upper assembly to be slid off the frame after the sideplate is removed...

I hope this helped...

'Kroil' is a product of Kano Labs, Nashville, TN, and is available from their website along with all their great products. Actually, 'Sili-Kroil' is the better penetrant.

well, even a blind hog finds an acorn every now and then. Thanks to the helpful advice from you guys, I have been able to unlock the toggle { by using the dowel and a rubber hammer ] and i have also been able to slide the upper part of the chamber backward approx. 1 inch. But I still am unable to rotate the takedown lever any at all. Should the upper cylinder spring back forward when released? Mine does not. Is there another step that I might have neglected that would free up the takedown lever? Also,last but not least. I have not yet been able to hear the audible click when I pull the trigger. As I type this note, the Luger is soaking in penetrating oil, with just about all of the upper half submerged. I sprayed heavy doses of the oil everywhere that I could find an opening, paying special attention to the trigger mechanism as well as the inner chamber and toggle. I have not given up, in fact, I have only begun to fight. Here's hoping!! stan

Stan, you're killing me. I want to get my hands on your Luger so badly I can smell the penetrating oil. The top cylinder I think you are referring to is the bolt. Its attached to the toggle, when the toggle is closed/flat it is forward against the chamber face. The bolt will not return to the closed position because of the mainspring being frozen. That's no problem to replace later. Nor will there be a click when the trigger is pulled until you can get the sideplate off and see what needs to be done there. Also no problem just careful cleaning required. But try again as John recommended to get the sideplate off. That has to be the next step. The front of the side plate is held by the locking nut, the rear is held in place by an 1/8" edge on the opposite side. Lift the sideplate up from the left side when the locking nut is rotated down.
rk

Stan,

As John said, you have to move the entire top "cannon" of the Luger back on the grip frame about 1/2" to rotate the takedown lever down and remove the sideplate. Opening the toggle won't release the lever, you have to move the "cannon" (the entire upper unit containing the toggle, barrel, etc.) back by gripping the frame and pressing the end of the barrel against a hard surface (slightly padded with a rag to prevent damaging the barrel). Sometimes it takes three or four hands to do this. It might be helpful to use a plastic putty knife to pry the head of the lever down while holding the "cannon" back. (I had to use the plastic putty knife on my 1936 shooter when I first got it--but it has loosened up now.)

so far so good. I've got it apart. I'll keep you posted, thanks, stan

Well guys, It was tough to persuade the takedown lever to turn for me, but with the help of alot of penatrating oil, as well as some light taps with the rubber mallet, I finally got it to cooperate. The upper bolt housing, { i guess you would call it ], would not move easily forward so I used the rubber mallet to, carefully , persuade it to move also. Once I had the top half off, I could begin the process of soaking and cleamning the inner workings of the gun. I am still in the process of cleaning and will begin reassembly soon. My wife is complaining that the gun has taken me away from her. So I have to spread my time out between her, my job and working on the Luger. I wish that she could get as excited about the project as I am, but she has other interest. Oh well, I'll still manage. Anyway, thanks again for the help. I will keep you guys posted on my progress, good or bad. Although I didnt take any before pictures of the gun, I will try and take some soon showing the results of my labor. I COULD'NT have done it without your help. You are all first class in my book. later, stan

Congratulations! You have disassembled your first Luger. I also had no idea how to do it the first time but I've got that thing so trained that when I go to the toy room and look at it hanging on the wall it jumps down and disassembles itself. Don't worry about the wife, mine gave up on me years ago. I might not be doing what she wants but she knows where I am.

rk

I picked up my hand grips today and they really make a lot of differance in the way that the gun looks. I let the local gunsmith take a look at her to get an opinion on what it might take to get the thing to work again. It is missing the main spring as well as a couple of other springs that he pointed out while we looked at a exploded picture. Exploded being the key word."S" Anyway, he made up a needed parts list and I am to get back with him on the cost. Once I take the dip, I'll have to go all the way. But functionl or not, I still have a great looking peice. Thanks for all of your input. Much appreceated,,,stan

Stanley,

You can probably get all the parts you need from Tom Heller, a member of this forum. He goes by Lugerdoc and may even jump in on this thread.

How can I contact Mr. Heller? I have considered resting for a while and just enjoying the progress that i have made so far. But there is something inside of me that keeps pushing me to finish what I've started. So , the search is on. Wish me luck...

Hello Stanley,

1. Tom can be reached at : hellerarms@webtv.net

2. I am not sure about your "H" on the right side, but I think the lack of lots of remaining original blue and straw on the small parts makes your pistol a shooter. A decent buy at $ 500.00, once you get her in working order.

3. I suspect your grips are repros with the lack of fit at the top of the frame on the left side and the fact that a gun with much blue and straw wear should have comparable wear on the grips.

Regards,

Pete... <img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />

Can someone please tell me if the main spring that is pictured in the technical section of this forum { the exploded picture of the Luger with the parts numbered } , the one that I need for my particular commercial model? I want to be sure before I attempt to order one. Also, if I remove the breech block pin as well as the extractor pin, will I be able to get to the firing pin and the firing pin spring and retainer? I am attempting to do as much of this myself as I can. Thanks for all of your help..stan

Only have a minute... but the firing pin, firing pin spring, and firing pin retainer are removed by simply pressing in slightly on the retainer with an appropriate screw driver and turn 90 degrees counter clockwise... no pins need be removed to disassemble these parts...

john, thanks for the heads up information on the firing pin. Is the main spring that I need for my pistol the same one that is pictured and numbered in your technical parts and dissassembly section. { No. 034 } ??

034 is the mainspring guide. 033 is the mainspring. If the mainspring is completely missing, you may also be missing the mainspring guide.

Yes, Its missing both. Thanks for the response..I'm going to a gun show in Ft. Walton Beach today hoping to find someone with some spare parts, but I dont have my hopes up. I'll enjoy looking around anyway..

Mr. Wood, can you give me any advice on the easiest way to install the mainspring and the guide once i get one, whice will be soon, I hope..thanks

Back in March of this year Ted Green (Thor) posted a 10 step installation guide with photos on the old forum (You can click on the "Search Old Board" that appears in the menu on the left side of the screen if you came to this forum via www.lugerforum.com) and search for "Luger Mainspring Installation" on 3/21/02. Unfortunately the photos are no longer attached to the postings. Perhaps Thor could re-post them on this forum. In the meantime, later on this evening I will extract the text from the old forum and post them here in case you have difficulty accessing the old forum.

P.S. It's Ron. Although I am old, I'm not old enough to be Mr. Wood. (At least I don't think I am)

SEEEEEEEEEEEeeeeeeeeeenor WOOD! I am uploading the photos right now!

Main Spring Picture 1
Main Spring Picture 2
Main Spring Picture 3
Main Spring Picture 4
Main Spring Picture 5
Main Spring Picture 6
Mainspring Guide rod shown reversed and incorrectly in Picture 6
Main Spring Picture 7
Main Spring Picture 8
Main Spring Picture 9
Main Spring Picture 10