If you change the recoil spring (NOT main spring!) don't throw the old one away. I'm looking for some soft recoil springs.

One last point for anyone contemplating shooting an all-original parts 1913 luger: The grips are the most fragile parts of the pistol and are numbered to that specific gun. If cracked or chipped, you will seriously damage the gun's value forever. Use replacement grips if you must shoot the pistol. The right grip is most fragile because of the very very thin rib on the inside surface. This rib is frequently cracked or broken and ancient grips are especially fragile from oil absorption or age drying. The left grip is next most vulnerable and chips around the safety lever, usually.

Firing pin tips are next most frequently broken. These can be repaired if broken but may not be strong enough to fire if rewelded. A substitute fp is wise if you are new to lugers and not familiar with how to decock or dry fire safely.

Few gunsmiths understand how to evaluate and inspect a luger--it is a unique system. You are better off in many instances learning about luger construction and operation and examining your luger yourself.

Congratulations on owning the best piece of 20th century history you can hold in your hand.

Dave

Alex, One followup to LP08's and the other members good advice, the fireing pin will not be fluted on your pistol if it is original or not changed out for the fluted kind which lets high pressure gas escape from a punctured primer. It is a good idea to find a fluted fireing pin to use when shooting this pistol. The Germans changed them for a reason. Jerry Burney

Ps. I agree that triple aught steel wool and much gun oil will not harm blueing in my experience but I wish our gunsmithing member,PoliceLuger, could elaborate some of his knowledge and experience concerning what it does etc. I am always willing to learn something new...

Also , congratulations, give your Fathers friend a hug and a kiss...he deserves it.

[quote] After reading the responses I have decided to purchase the Luger <hr></blockquote>

alex, you worry me. In the time that you took to make up your undecisive/indecisive mind, the old man could have died! Can't you see all of these fellers posting on this thread that they are chomping at the bit to get their hands on such a bargain?
My god, boy!
And you are going to pick it up tomorrow? To hell with that! Go over there tonight and roust the old fellow out of bed and strike the deal!
Let the pistol rust in your hands, not his.

Relax Mr. Wes, I bought it and brought it home today. I am in the process of stripping and cleaning it. I must say it is quite an addictive pursuit! I will post some pics and further info tomorrow once I have finished "playing".

Regards, Alex

alex,

Charon has rowed you across the river Styx.

I’m sure if Alex didn’t have an obolus to give old Charon, he’d gladly take the 1913 DWM instead as payment for a boat ride across the Acheron or the Styx.

http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/charon.jpg

I was gone for a few days of hunting and will not argue the issue here of steelwool vs anything else, but to say we have progressed in the past 50 years from steelwool to newer methods. Steelwool, if over done will effect the blue, new blue, old blue, cold blue. Newer cleaning tools have been come on the market. But I bet some are still shooting from that pound can of IMR 13 that grandpa got at the end of the Great War....lets drop this subject. OK?

I don't think so. Why don't you enlighten us? Could it be brass wool there in your bag of tricks?

I agree. I have an Artillery which looks like the blue was "fogged" by steel wool when somebody tried to clean rust out of some barrel pitting. In my dim past I seem to recall doing something similar myself (assuredly while practicing on a junk gun, not anything valuable). If there are practical, proven alternatives, I would like to hear about them, along with techniques for their use.

--Dwight

OK this won't go away, here is the address:
Big .45 Frontier Gun shop
PO Box 270
Hill City, SD. 57745
1-800-342-1548
as I said I hold no stock in this compamy, that is commerical type stock, but I do hold a lot of faith in the products, this pad will not harm any blue finish, my best Colt SSA, my prized Lugers, and most important my customers guns that I do not want to have to replace. A small bit of oil or better yet #9 and rub as hard as you want, it will clean away years of gunk and fouling and leaves the finish untouched..if you want to use steelwool have a blast just don't blame me, and I was only trying to help.