BTW, I have a couple of the correct mags for that gun? I'd sell or trade?....WHAT! Dang dude, you better jump all over that before someone else does!

Remember the Shattuck pistols with a round mark on the side of the right hand ear, these were caused by his ID adhesive stickers.

Vlim, did Dutch officers have to purchase their own sidearms? That might be an explanation of a Dutch contract Luger without a unit marking plate

Yes, they did.

They could either buy directly from the army, what most of them did. But they could also purchase their pistol on the commercial market.

There is a nice account of an officer who bought a german P08 and had it checked at the arsenal. The bore was shot out, so the pistol was unservicable. To his enjoyment, the arsenal bought it from him for more than he had paid.

I would add that Gorilla glue could be a temporary fx. I have a Sig 210 that I love but the rear frame was short and the slide/hammer would bite my hand. I bought an extentsion from a Sig Dealer made for curing this problem. They suggested that the piece be screwed onto the frame, I didn't like that so its been on the pistol for years with the use of Gorilla glue. Regards Dave

My research shows it was 'braised' on?? whatever that means?

Solder is a lead/tin mix and the solder is melted to glue the objects

Welding is using electricity or an oxygen/acetylene gas mix to melt iron/steel to glue the objects

Brazing is using brass rods to melt the objects together

Brass - hotter than solder, much cooler than welding

The temperature at which 50/50 solder melts is below the range that straws small parts, so over-heating enough to damage the finish wouldn't be a big concern. A proper solder joint uses a flux that is acidic--whether paste or fluid--and therein lies the concern about the finish.

Contact cement should do the trick, but you only have one shot at positioning it. Something with a bit more working time might be appropriate. Whatever the choice, its cleanup should also be non-reactive with the finish.

It's a good idea to make sure the surfaces to be mated are dead flat and as clean of old mastic as possible. Clamping the work will also improve success.

Think my Grandfather, WW1 aircraft mechanic and all around skillful man, would have called the original process "sweating."
A version of soldering, I believe.
Somewhere I have a lighter made from a wing wire turnbuckle he made and "sweated" a German buckle crown and a plate with his initials.

You can undo the glue with no damage to the existing finish. You cannot undo solder. Since there is some question as to whether this pistol ever had a Unit plate, I would NOT suggest soldering