I'm a bit confused (not hard to do), someone had a 1913 pistol with serial number 4012 b. Then someone said that the suffix letter was added after the first 10,000 units were made. So that doesn't match. Apparently the next production year was 1916 when the top strap number changed or does it change when a feature is changed/added? The pistol I've shown was made in 1913 towards the beginning of the manufacturing series?

You have 1 to 10,000.
Then 1a to 10,000a.
Then 1b to 10,000b.
Etc ...

What Vlim said. At the beginning of 1913, the first 10,000 made would not have a suffix letter. The second 10,000 made would have suffix letter a and the third 10,000 would have suffix letter b and so forth and so on.

In 1914 and each year thereafter, the process was repeated.

The exceptions to that rule included the first contract of 1908 when 50,000 Lugers were ordered from DWM. Delivery began in 1909 and the serial numbers were continuous into the e suffix uninterrupted until the contract was completed in 1911.

When Mauser began production of Lugers, they continued through the alphabet without regard for the calendar date and used the entire alphabet more than once. IOW, they didn't start each year with a run of 10,000 without a suffix letter.

The pencil just got a lot sharper. Thank you for the explanation. Makes sense when you know the facts.

And, except for 1908 to 1911, a new sequence started with each year change. SO the Luger serial number consists of the year, the number and the alphbet letter.

Somehow that does not seem very german to me but that is how it is,

PS, do they not go from 0001 to 9999?

The stock lug itself has been around a least since the 1902 Carbine.

The addition of the stock lug proved beneficial during production, as the frame could be held in place without pressure damage. That is why the military contracts maintained continuation of the lug from 1918-1945. Simson, Mauser, as well as Krieghoff, when they commenced production of Lugers still utilized the lug, long after the stock accessory was considered obsolete.

Well I did it. I found a couple of decent videos about taking the Luger completely apart. Watched the video and than got to work. I opted for a field strip. I don't have all the necessary small tools and punches yet to do a complete take apart. Hopefully this winter when the snow will keep me in for a couple of days. Also need to build up the nerve to tackle it.
Only got one pinched finger. Some 000 steel wool and the out side looks a lot better that it did. Actually better than most I've seen that were in the same condition as mine. I did find out that the grips match the gun serial number. I was glad to see that since so many grips are replaced.
Everything got a thin coat of oil. I should/will post pictures of the cleaned pistol.

You've inspired me to dig out my Finnish Contract m/23 Luger and have a go cleaning it up with some 00 steel wool.



Keep me occupied tomorrow morning anyway.

Use 0000 steel wool or, better yet, bronze wool. The finer the wool, the better. Lubricate well with oil and don't press too hard.

Thanks, it is not as bad as it appears in the photos. I have some 000 steel wool ready and this evening I have stripped it down and I am soaking the parts in oil.

I really like the bronze wool idea Doubs ... Will have to track some 0000 bronze down.

I use 0000 steel wool with a touch of Ballistol or a fine gun oil .
I do not use 'scrubbing' motions but rather 'light' straight passes in one direction on the area that needs attention and like Doubs I don't press hard. Take it slow, stop and look then carry on as needed in small steps.