LugerForum Discussion Forums - What's the advantage of Ruger Mark III's fluted barrel?

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- - What's the advantage of Ruger Mark III's fluted barrel? (https://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=35311)

Quote:

Originally Posted by sheepherder (Post 283920)

It's intended for the target shooter who shoots both centerfire and rimfire; using a Colt-style centerfire pistol. Supposedly the same grip angle promotes consistency when moving from the one caliber to the other. :rolleyes:

True. But I think High Standard did a better job with the military supermatics.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidJayUden (Post 283901)

"Integrally suppressed. Quieter than an air gun with the right ammo. And it has flutes for those that like them!"

Alan: I have one of Ceiner's which is not particularly quiet, not user serviceable, and he's no longer servicing his stuff. Any ideas on how, or who, will work on them?
dju

Mark Serbu built my Siris. It is serial number 11 and is also not serviceable via dismantling. It still remains very quiet after all these years, but requires an annoying cleaning ritual. Mark will not service them, but you might try Doug Melton at SRT Firearms.

http://www.srtarms.com/

Or John Tibbets at John's Guns.

http://www.fullysuppressed.com/aboutus.html

They are both skilled machinists and might get a laugh out of redoing one of Jonathan Arthur's old designs.

Fired 200 rounds CCI .22lr from it in range. It worked very well, no issues met, and it's very accurate... Shooting a little bit to the right, but that's my habit related. I did not carry tool with me today, will adjust the rear sight a little bit next time.

Field stripping for cleaning is not easy on this gun. Putting back took even more effort. Try and fail a few times, that's still manageable. So far so good.

I love Rugers...but I would rather eat a handful of live bees than field strip one.
Ron

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron Wood (Post 284001)

I love Rugers...but I would rather eat a handful of live bees than field strip one.
Ron

Once you learn the trick it's easy.
Before that.....:crying:

Quote:

Originally Posted by rolandtg (Post 284003)

Once you learn the trick it's easy.
Before that.....:crying:

Yep! The trouble is, the "trick" is different for different people!

trick my ass...a bigger hammer helps a lot......i have 4 of them and they are all a bitch.....

Quote:

Originally Posted by alvin (Post 283910)

Looks like Ruger Mark III has three major variations -- Standard (with Luger like barrel), Target (with bull barrel), and Hunting (with fluted bull barrel).

LGS salesman showed me another variation. It's grip is more like 1911, and the model name is indeed 22/45 :) I prefer Luger's grip angle, so I bought this one.

Which one??? That looks like the bull barrel... :confused:

You decided against the flutes? I was curious as to how they looked...A member here once asked if a target barrel could be fluted...But it seems as if slabbed barrel is more popular...

Once you figure out that popping the round bar of the takedown assembly into the upper's opening first and making sure that it "clicks' into place, in as far as it will go, facilitates the rest of the process. Popping the bar clear through the upper allows the locking lever to freely swing right down and snap into place.

Maybe my rememberer isn't working well, but, I seem to remember reading somewhere in the last 40 years that the fluting stiffens the barrel and improves accuracy.

I have one of these, with the tapered barrel. Due to resemblance to the Parabellum I refer to it as "the poor man's Luger". It is a real joy to shoot.

If you install the Tandemkross bushing ($10) to eliminate the magazine safety they are much easier to reassemble after takedown. I also performed an amateur "trigger job" by polishing the trigger linkage and it made the pull lighter. Both bushing install and trigger linkage polish are well described in YouTube videos.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron Wood (Post 284001)

I love Rugers...but I would rather eat a handful of live bees than field strip one.
Ron

Ron Let me say that I'd never heard that expression before quite amusing! :roflmao:

Kind regards.

Ron's hilarious response reminded me that as a young computer technician in my spare time, I used to do occasional jobs for a rural computer store.

One day they called me and asked me to go to a surgeon's house and upgrade the memory in a PC that he had purchased from them. It turned out that doctor was my neighbor a couple of houses down from mine and we knew each other.

Rather than charge my neighbor friend for the simple task of inserting some new memory chips, I called him and told him all he had to do was power the system off, open the case and insert the two new chips in the sockets provided for them since they couldn't be inserted incorrectly, and then close the case.

His response to me made me fall off my chair in laughter. He was deathly afraid of electricity...and strangely, not very mechanically inclined. He said, " I will gladly pay you because I would rather cut open somebody's abdomen and do a bowel resection than stick my hand into a computer!"

=======================

Regarding the fluted barrel on the target version of the Ruger .22 auto. I would have to submit that they are purely decorative in this instance, since rigidity could hardly be an issue in a barrel only 6 inches long... flutes may play a roll in a bench rest type target barrel... but not on a pistol...IMHO.

I have a 6 inch tapered barrel on mine and it is a great fun and accurate gun to shoot, even with standard non-adjustable sights.

Quote:

Originally Posted by alvin (Post 283999)

You do not need to strip the pistol to clean it.
A good wipe will do.

After 2 or 5 thousand rounds, you may want to take it apart as you have in the picture. Depends on which brand of cartridges you use, some are much "dirtier" than others.

More .22s are ruined by excessive cleaning than they ever are by firing. JMHO.

Here we go again...

A post I wrote on RFC several years ago:

Quote:

You should always clean your guns after every use - except when you shouldn't. Powder residue will corrode your barrel except you'll wear your barrel out cleaning it. Softer than gunmetal bronze and/or nylon brushes can't possibly wear your barrel out but never use cotton patches as they'll ruin the crown and wear the barrel prematurely. You should always coat the inside of a freshly cleaned barrel with gun oil, except that will hydro-lock your gun next time you fire it so you really should use {insert fave brand of CLP here}. Dirty barrels are far more accurate than clean ones except nothing centers like a freshly cleaned barrel. Barrel accuracy degrades, and corrosion sets in after the third round, except for the guy who has shot exactly 15,348,723 rounds since the last cleaning and his barrel looks brand new. The previous is only valid if you use {insert fave brand of ammo here}. If you use {insert hated brand of ammo here}, your barrel will tie itself into a knot, and your cat will barf on your computer keyboard. Match shooters clean their barrels every 10-15 rounds, except the champ who has never cleaned his 50 Y.O. gun. Hoppe's #9 was good enough for grandpa, its good enough for me; but its outdated and you really should use {insert fave CLP here}. You should only run patches with a loop unless you're using a jag. Never use bronze brushes, nylon ones are clearly inferior. You'll wear your gun out cleaning it, except you'll wear it out from the unburned grit and glass particles left by every shot! Don't ever let your cleaning rod touch the inside of the barrel as soft aluminum will damage a hard steel barrel, except that the aluminum oxide on the soft aluminum rod will abrade the barrel. But soft brass/bronze rods won't hurt anything except you should use stainless steel as it doesn't flex as much. Don't forget to always brush or swab from the breech to the muzzle as this is the way the bullet travels - except swabbing/brushing from the muzzle to the breech reverses the the "flow" of crud so it won't migrate from the chamber to the farthest parts of the barrel. If you shot corrosive ammo, spray Windex down the barrel but never use ammonia under these circumstances, put your gun in the dishwasher instead. A good, stiff cleaning rod is best; especially when it is a nice flexible cleaning cord. One should always use a 1 piece rod, the 3 sectioned ones travel better. Clean your gun at the range, but its OK to wait until you get home. Never use {whatever} to clean your rifle, it will cause flash rust within .0352 microseconds; its far better to use {another whatever} because it will cause buildup that will clog your barrel the very first time its used. Its best to use the {whatever military} cleaning technique except its outdated and ineffective; better to use the technique employed by {whatever police dept.} as everyone knows all cops' guns are perpetually dirty. The 15 step, all intensive, 3 hour, 18 patch method is best, just run 1 patch through the bbl and throw the gun back in the truck for next time.

That should pretty much sum up where this thread will end up going - did I miss anything?

As for me, I keep mine clean. YMMV!

I clean the bbl on my Mk III after every range trip, and a field strip and thorough clean every 600 rds - and by that time the gun is in desperate need of a cleaning!

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Sabato (Post 284054)

Regarding the fluted barrel on the target version of the Ruger .22 auto. I would have to submit that they are purely decorative in this instance, since rigidity could hardly be an issue in a barrel only 6 inches long... flutes may play a roll in a bench rest type target barrel... but not on a pistol...IMHO.

I have a 6 inch tapered barrel on mine and it is a great fun and accurate gun to shoot, even with standard non-adjustable sights.

That's a mighty fine lookin' Nambu - er Ruger - you have there! :evilgrin:

zormpas,
your instructions for cleaning are right on the money.:cheers:

The only thing you left out is that you will wear out the pistol taking it apart and putting it together;
oops! No I think you did cover that in section 3 words 18 through 43.:evilgrin:

Yea, and I forgot to mention the grips - you need to remove your grips before cleaning because the cleaning solution will dissolve them, but it really doesn't matter because all the gunk will add to their patina...

:roflmao:

I've never seen or heard of a modern quality firearm, firing modern noncorrosive ammo, that:
1. Was worn out from too much cleaning
2. Suffered damage because it was rarely cleaned.

Therefore firearms should be cleaned every time they are used, or not. Both Don and Zormpas have nailed it.

After firing rounds from it, I think "heat dissipation" could be eliminated from fluted barrel of Ruger .22 -- the barrel can at most be described as warm after firing 200 rounds, not hot at all, there was simply no heat to dissipate. But deep cut on barrel could still reduce bull barrel's weight.