Luger ID
 

What does BKIW stand for?
Aldo35

Berlin Karlsruher Industrie Werke. That is what DWM transitioned to after WWI. BKIW still used the DWM trademark on the Luger toggle.

Great Close Up pics!

FWIW, it was $15 for the gun rug back then, well made as I still have it. I thought the guy at the gun show was a bit eager to make the trade, but at the time the spare magazine had little value to me. With all the moves I made in forty years, I am a bit surprised I still have the holster and that the holster is in such great shape.

How do I go about doing that?

How does my gun compare to this one:

http://www.rockislandauction.com/vie...id/64/lid/3372

I noticed it has the same proof mark as my gun.

Same variation. With that said, I think it will not, or barely, make their low estimate. I would not use their estimate as a price guide just yet. Then again....... one never knows. John

How easy or hard is it to remove and replace the safety bar?

Once you lift and slide out the leaf spring, which holds the bar in, the safety bar can simply be levered out of the upper frame.

Thanks.

I will have to study the gun to make sure I understand "slide out the leaf spring". Is there a specific name for the part? I attached a list of parts.

Also, for someone who knows what they are doing, how long would it takes to disassemble a Luger to replace the extractor, complete firing pin assembly, and safety bar, then reassemble the Luger?

Which then leads to how safe would it be to shoot the gun after those modifications?

Dan, I believe aliant is talking about the sear bar. what is your goal here? Is it to replace all common breakage parts to shoot it?
If so, I would not do that either, but get a shooter grade gun. The piece that breaks will never be the one you replaced!!! Your luger is a good collectable luger, playing with swapping parts will do it no good at best, and harm at worst. These things were hand fit. John

I do not want to shoot my gun again, but I might need to confirm it is still safe to shoot. An issue exists that someone else might have replaced parts without my permission, so I want to know in what time frame that would be possible before the gun was returned to me.

I'd say around a half hour, tops, to swap the parts you've described. This presumes basic familiarity with the process, and a bit of mechanical ability and sense. It is not very difficult. If, by "safety bar", you mean the dealie that blocks the sear when the safety lever is turned to the "safe" position, you'd need to tap out, from above, the retaining pin for the safety lever itself. With this removed, and the lever lifted out of the way, the bar is free to slide out of the frame.

Just ask what the value range is, and you'll get responses here. I think a consensus on the forum is better at valuing a gun compared to just any random "gun dealer". I'd throw you a figure, but there are others that know better what it is worth.

Lets see if we can all get on the same page.

I am no expert.

I was going by the Numrich pdf file I attached previously.

The part I was referring to is number 41 - Safety Bar, which is Safety Tab in your picture.

Is it possible to remove the Safety Tab without removing the pin to the Safety Catch (thumb safety lever)? In other words force it?

I attached a picture showing what looked to me like a fresh scratch on the back of the Safety Tab after I got the gun back.

No. You have to drift out the pin that holds the thumb safety, remove the thumb safety, then you can wiggle the safety tab (safety bar) out of the frame. The pin must be driven out from the top and then reinserted from the bottom when you are putting everything back together.

If your pistol was all-matching prior to lending it out, it probably will not be now, if someone actually swapped parts. I confused sear bar with safety bar in my previous post, but both of these should be numbered to the gun.

Thanks much, especially for the diagram. I had read the procedure in another reference for removing the safety tab but did not understand where to go to remove the pin.

I did not "lend it out", and it was taken apart without my permission. But that is a topic for a new thread.

One more question for this thread. If the gun truly had all original parts, should/could the safety tab (safety bar) have been blue steel instead of "straw" colored as viewed when the thumb safety level was activated to show "Gesichert" with the wood grips installed?

The safety bar was originally "in the white", not blued or strawed.