Hmmmm...The Mec-Gar button is black, my follower is 'gold'...It shows up pretty well without the extension... :)

I don't know. Back in my millwright days, when I worked on coal pulverizers/boilers, there was an 'eye' for looking into the coal furnace...I think it was made of 'Mica'...Something hard like that would work, if it could be glued in... :confused:

Ah! Lexan (or Makrolon) is the trademarked-name for polycarbonate. My metal supplier has 12" sheets of it for ~$2.00/sheet. I'll get a sheet with my next order. :)

The spec sheet says high impact resistance but low scratch resistance. That sounds like the opposite of what a pistol grip should have... :(

Almost...you'd want high impact resistance and high scratch resistance. Unfortunately, you won't find much in the plastic realm that satisfies the latter. If G.T. is sending you clear mica, I think it will be authentic and effective. Known in the old days as isinglass, should perform well in all respects if it's ultra-clear grade. Impervious to glues of all formats, cuts with scissors or matte knife. I think inorganic is the way to go.

Polycarbonate is available with one side hard to resist scratches--albeit only longer than most other plastics. It is tougher than you can even imagine. Tested some 2" wide strips X 1/4" Polycarbonate in the 80s, with sledge hammer blows. It would distort plenty, and definitely was mooshed around by the hammer face, but it never cracked, no matter what. I used panels of it to enclose a mechanical sculpture that was installed in a public space.

Just for the sake of argument, why would you want high impact resistance? The grip is going to break if hit hard enough...Why have the window remain intact? :confused:

No, he has something else. Not Mica. He thinks maybe plexiglas...

I'll give it a try. I'll order plexiglas too. It's cheap. :thumbup:

Enough in one small sheet for the whole batch of cartridge counters!
http://www.ashevillemica.com/natural...1thl0e266gerl5

Otherwise, as Doug suggested, cellulose acetate sheet. I've taken the liberty of requesting a sample from one of the sellers, so stay tuned.

Continuing my Gonzo Grip Mod, left grip has the slot milled to line up with slot in modified magazine. Mine won't have the numbers or the offset slot to read them, or the offset mag button extension. It'll just show rounds in the magazine.

Here's a mockup of the grip and magazine with a couple rounds inserted...And chamfering the slot...I don't know if 'real' cartridge counter grips had chamfered slots, but it looks sorta nice... :rolleyes:

Flipping the grip over and milling a relief for the polycarbonate 'window'...And also milling four small cuts for glue to hold the window from popping out... :p

The grip alterations are complete. The magazine modification is complete. Now for the window. ;)

Rough cutting a 7/16" piece of .060" polycarbonate; milling it down to 3/8"; and pressing it in place.

The finished gonzo grip counter on my artillery Luger. Greg Cote advertises this Mec-Gar magazine will hold eight rounds, but I think seven is more realistic. :thumbup:

I'll wait for Ithacadave to weigh in on what kind of glue/adhesive to use to hold the polycarbonate window in place. I don't want the adhesive to 'spread' or discolor the window, and since I have no experience with this material, I'll wait for more a experienced member to advise me. :thumbup:

Thank you all for your enthusiastic attention! :cheers:

You have waaay too much fun...wish I had your skills.:thumbup:
Ron

What do you anticipate final cost to be when you hit full production???

Rich,

I'll confess I've never needed to stick polycarbonate to wood. All my applications of it have been held in place with retainers or fasteners.

In order that the bonding agent not wick to unsightly locations, seems to me you need a high viscosity product that stays where it's put. I Googled a little and came up with a few possibilities:

Weld-On 55 and 56 are thick and clear, but I don't know how effective on wood.

http://www.cyberbond1.com/product-detail/apollo/2400/

Good ol' Superglue gel works on everything I've used it for, so far.

I still have that 8 1/2" X 11" sample sheet of cellulose acetate, if that will help. One suggestion I read on one of the woodworking forums is to prime the needed area on the wood to help eliminate porosity, for adhesives that like smooth surfaces...

I would consider rubber cement. It is very forgiving as far as spread/ooze goes. pretty much stays where you put it. A layer on both parts..you can rub it off of places it gets to before you mate them together. It doesn't take much to do the job either! Plus you CAN pry the parts apart..maybe..if you have to separate them. polycarbonate may have to be lightly sanded where the glue is to grip well if it's overly smooth/slick.
Superglue HATES clear plastic..I got some near my dollar store plastic glasses lenses once and just the vapors will cloud it.

Richard

Congratulations for your skills and of course thanks a lot for sharing!