I am of the group that uses a grease to the hard friction areas(toggle train to receiver, etc.) and a good oil to the lighter friction areas. I run my Lugers well lubricated.

I use TW25b for the frame/toggle areas(grease), and Outers or other good gun oils for the areas needing a lighter lubrication.

I have been using Hoppe's #9 for more years than I can remember. I have tried others, but never felt that they were any better than Hoppe's, and they lacked the fragrance!!

I used to love the smell of a paper shotgun shell that had just been fired. I believe that they were Monarch Brand.....but maybe not.

only areas of active rust

Is this active rust on the trigger sideplate?
 

Hey guys, I've taken a couple photos of my Luger's trigger sideplate as an example of some spotting I notice on various areas of the sidearm.

I've attached two photos of the sideplate: one standard and one macro of the upper right corner of the sideplate.

Is this active rust? If so, how should I address the rust correctly: using the 0000 steel wool and what other measures?

How will I know when I've sufficiently removed the rust?

Thanks for any insight!

Jeff

rhuff,

Thanks for the suggestion regarding the grease. It sounds like TW25b is a great lubricant and protectant, so I've got it on my buy/use list, right next to Hoppe's #9

I have a small bottle of this synthetic sperm oil that I use for the occasional cleaning/lubing of my sextant. It is pretty thin though.
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/advance...m+oil&x=11&y=6

Marc

cdmech,

Great! I was actually searching for some synthetic sperm oil yesterday for the heck of it.

Thanks for the link!


Jeff

I think Hoppes is mostly carbon tet... :rolleyes:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_tetrachloride

Also, imho, Wolf ammo and Aguela ammo are some of the highest-residue ammo I've ever shot.

And everybody know that all the whale oil went into Honda motorcycle forks back in the 60's and 70's. ;)