LugerForum Discussion Forums - How to fix a bent barrel extension?

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- - How to fix a bent barrel extension? (https://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=30371)

Now when the discussion is officialy derailed, here's the RX22. Ain't she purdy?

Preheat gas - a site circled in black.
Insert the iron bar (green) is equal to the size of 12.9 mm, the item should be cool with a green bar.
Heat to 3-4
http://i056.radikal.ru/1304/b9/b60249c649e4.jpg
http://i056.radikal.ru/1304/b9/b60249c649e4.jpg
When heated metal recalls his condition pervonochalnoe

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drum (Post 233085)

Preheat gas - a site circled in black.
Insert the iron bar (green) is equal to the size of 12.9 mm, the item should be cool with a green bar.
Heat to 3-4
When heated metal recalls his condition pervonochalnoe

The warden said it best... :)

Могу для Вас написать по русски!!! Переводите в этом случаи, возможность смеяться -еще не показатель ума! Все Ваши охи и ахи в этой теме ничем не помогли хозяину данной темы. Я предложил вариант который работает.
На фото ниже было сильно согнуто, 4 раза с последующим нагреванием и остыванием фактически выпрямилось, а теперь смейтесь...........
http://s017.radikal.ru/i418/1304/12/3bc573f7b7a5.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drum (Post 233090)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drum (Post 233090)

I write to you on Russian! Translate this case, the ability to laugh, is not an indication of the mind! All your oohs and aahs in the topic does not help the owner of the topic. I proposed a version that works.
The photo below was severely bent, 4 times, followed by heating and cooling of the fact straightened, and now laugh ...........

I do laugh...The translation is faulty... :thumbup:

i'm all in...i'll take three !!!

Heat will sure make things easier to bend, but it's a very dicey proposition if you don't know exactly what kind of steel you have and how it was treated after machining. It sure doesn't hurt (and would probably be beneficial to prevent cracks) to bring it up to like 150F or so, but I'd be afraid to heat it to the point where it becomes soft. Whatever kind of steel this is, it will probably lose temper, and so far I haven't found anyone who knows exactly how to heat treat it after bending it hot.

This is a very thin area and takes a lot of stress, and I'm afraid that the "heat til it's soft and bend" method will weaken it. Also, once heated above a certain point (above the usual "cherry red" you aim for when hardening), the properties of the steel can change to the point where it can never be brought back to proper temper. Bending cold is not the best method either, but it feels safer than heating.

Maikl -

My quote is from an American movie "Cool Hand Luke" about an American malcontent who is rebelling against society. He is arrested for damaging government property and is sentenced to behavior modification by physical labor. He rebels and attempts to escape. The quote is famous because it illustrates his inability to understand and conform.

It is the translation of your native language by Google or Yahoo that is confusing.

Here is what is confusing in your post -

Preheat gas - a site circled in black.
OK, that seems to mean heat the black area with a gas source [torch].
Insert the iron bar (green) is equal to the size of 12.9 mm, the item should be cool with a green bar.
OK, You're inserting a 12.5mm 'wedge' after the area is heated.
Heat to 3-4
We do not have anything equal to "3-4" in our measure of heat.
When heated metal recalls his condition pervonochalnoe
We do not have a word/translation for "pervonochalnoe". :(

Now, to your picture -

When heated to insert here the iron bar thickness
of 12,9mm
and so nsdelat 3 times, the surface will cool the air
and take your size
We do not have a word for "nsdelat".

From what I can decipher, you are suggesting heating the chamber area and then sliding a wedge into the 'fork' to return it to it's original shape. Do it three times??? And maybe the '3-4' is hundreds of degrees Celsius???

Nothing separates us like the language...

My attempt in Russian [via Google] -

Майкл -

Моя цитата из американского фильма "Хладнокровный Люк" об американском недовольный кто восстает против общества. Он арестован за порчу казенного имущества и приговорен к модификации поведения физическим трудом. Он восстает и пытается убежать.Цитата известен, поскольку он иллюстрирует свою неспособность соответствовать.

Это перевод вашего родного языка Google или Yahoo, что сбивает с толку.

Вот что сбивает с толку в вашем посте -

Разогреть газа - сайт обведены черным.
Хорошо, что, кажется, означают, что тепло черная область с источником газа [факел].
Вставьте железный прут (зеленый) равна размеру 12,9 мм, пункт должен быть прохладным с зеленой полосой.
Теперь твоя вставки 12,5 клиновидные после зона нагревается.
Нагрейте до 3-4
У нас нет ничего равно "3-4" в градусах.
При нагревании металла вспоминает свое состояние pervonochalnoe
У нас нет слов / перевод "pervonochalnoe". : (

Теперь, чтобы ваши картины -

При нагревании до перенесите сюда толщиной железным прутом
12,9 мм
и так nsdelat 3 раза, поверхность будет охлаждать воздух
и принять ваш размер
У нас нет слова "nsdelat".

Из того, что я могу расшифровать, вы предлагаете нагрев камеры, области, а затем скольжение клин в "вилку", чтобы вернуть его в его первоначальной форме. Сделайте это три раза?? А может быть, '3 -4 'является градусов по Цельсию??

Ничто не разделяет нас, как язык ...

Да Вы понимаете меня правильно. У хозяина темы есть другие варианты выпрямить его деталь на фото??? Тут поможет только нагрев и больше ничего, свойство стали не поменяется от нагрева, остывать деталь будет на воздухе. Механическим путем это не выпрямить - можно сломать.
Я завтра нагрею деталь что на фото последний раз, так как нужно вывести еще 0,15 мм, и сделаю фото.

I don't think much heat is needed...

Probably heat can and will help... but I really don't think it necessary for the small amount of correction needed... When I was a puppy, I worked on many, many small, mostly two cycle engine, outboard motors, snowmobiles, motorcycles, lawn and garden, and on and on... And one thing I remember that was always fascinating, was straightening a bent connecting rod... you could bend it quite a ways, both back and forth, until the piston was true to the cylinder.. no compromise in strength or life of the part... I don't think these receivers are any better metal or temper, and I've had more trouble supporting them correctly, then in bending the part... A real issue, is if it's slightly crushed??? We will see as I have it in my hot little hands right now! Again, not for the faint of heart....:jumper:.... I will report back soon with either happy smiles, or big crocodile tears?? Best to all til...lat'r....GT:cheers:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drum (Post 233098)

Yes, you understand me correctly. The owner of the topics there are other options to straighten his part in the photo?? There will only heat and nothing else, the property became not change from heat, cool item will be on the air. Mechanically it is not straighten - can be broken.
Tomorrow I'll heating of the parts that the photo last time, because you want to bring another 0.15 mm, and make photos.

That's from Google...

Here's from Babylon...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drum (Post 233098)

Yes do you understand me correctly. The master topic there are other options available to straighten his part in the photo??? It will help only heat and nothing more, the property does not have to change from heat, cool down part will be on the air. Mechanically this is not straighten - can break. I tomorrow нагрею part is that in the photo the last time, as you want to have 0.15 mm, and make a photo.

And now Bing...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drum (Post 233098)

Yes you understand me correctly. A host of themes, there are other options to straighten it a detail in the photo??? It will heat only and nothing more, the steel doesn't change from heat to cool part will be on the air. Mechanically it is not right to break.
I know that part tomorrow in the photo last time because you want to display another 0.15 mm, and do photos.

Seems to me that Google is the easiest to understand...

Смотря где находится зона изгиба???
http://s017.radikal.ru/i414/1304/f4/9d9c0e2c1bae.jpg
Если смотреть на фото -я указал это место красной стрелкой, а зона нагрева указанна зеленым кругом, после того как нагреем нужно вставить железный брусок . Металл по мере остывания примет фактически свою форму.

Here's from Babylon...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drum
Yes do you understand me correctly. The master topic there are other options available to straighten his part in the photo??? It will help only heat and nothing more, the property does not have to change from heat, cool down part will be on the air. Mechanically this is not straighten - can break. I tomorrow нагрею part is that in the photo the last time, as you want to have 0.15 mm, and make a photo.

Это ближе к вашему пониманию.

Вот примерно так:
Это я вставил взамен железного бруска чтоб было понятно.
http://s020.radikal.ru/i706/1304/48/955f72ed29cc.jpg
http://s017.radikal.ru/i404/1304/72/67d8f6e114d1.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by G.T. (Post 233099)

I don't think much heat is needed...

I was reading in the Brownell catalog a note about flat spring forming which intrigued me...Interesting comments about heat...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drum (Post 233106)

Вот примерно так:
Это я вставил взамен железного бруска чтоб было понятно.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drum (Post 233106)

That something like this:
This I put in instead of the iron bar to make it clear.

http://s020.radikal.ru/i706/1304/48/955f72ed29cc.jpg
http://s017.radikal.ru/i404/1304/72/67d8f6e114d1.jpg

doesn't hurt to try, not to old to learn...

I'm going to try Drums method, or something similar?? ... makes sense, we will see soon... Thanks to all, and best to all... til...lat'r....GT:jumper::jumper:

:thumbup:... well, I had good luck with Olles receiver extension... I have send Olle some pics with a short description of the process I used... didn't use heat, although I believe what the gentleman said, I didn't see the advantage for this repair... Anyway, pics to follow..:thumbup::thumbup: Best to all, til...lat'r....GT

GT,

I sure appreciate your assistance! :cheers:

I have to go over the pictures to see how you did it, but the bottom line is that another barrel extension has been saved! I'll get back with a report as soon as I have had time to review :thumbup:

So I finally got the pictures resized, and here's GT's description of how he did it:

Quote:

This is a very basic attempt to straighten a bent P.08 receiver ... It is not the only way, and maybe even not the best way, but it worked for me and I'm just showing the membership how I solved the problem...

There are two important starting points...First, determine which fork is bent, to what direction/ degree, and also in how many places?? You could easily be working with a compound bend, or wowie! ...Second, don't make it worse!
Use steel where it doesn't matter on inside contact surfaces, and aluminum for the contact bar.. Also, use stock that is thick and long enough to give you excellent stability and will resist the yield forces required...

As can be seen in the pictures, I mounted the chamber area in the blocks pictured to securely hold the receiver on the chamber area sides, using the chamber width as my initial base measurement and leaving the straight fork unsupported and free, I clamped the leverage bars to the bent fork. All the way up to the start of the chamber, as that is where I determined, with a straight edge, the bend to start...

I then measured across the leverage bars using the straight fork, and the far side of the leverage as my new base measurement.. I was a simply matter to then bend out the fork in question until the measurement at the back, matched the one taken toward the front... The bares are a foot long, and it took very little effort to get it straight with little movement required... It came back perfect.. one for one!!! Doesn't mean that it's the right way, or maybe even I got lucky... (don't count on that!!) I then removed the bares, and checked the back of the forks width, and compared it to my initial base measurement across the chamber.. it was within .002" and it easily springs plus or minus that... The big thing is it is straight, and I've already tried it out in a P.08 and it all worked fine.. Shade tree Luger smithing at its finest!!! :)

Best to all, til...lat'r...GT

GT told me that he can make more tools like this if somebody needs it, seems like it's a great way to fix this problem!