Greetings, Gentlemen,

Hold in right hand as if to fire, with booger hook off of banger switch, just push the muzzle against the edge of workbench or anything solid, move the cannon back about 1/4". The take down lever is now free to turn down with left thumb. Rescinded the rocket science part. I apoligize.

Good point Ralph, thanks, your way is better,


Ed

I think it was a miracle when I found this sight. So much knowlege in one place is really hard to find. After I strip the luger down you said to soak it in oil. Does that mean to submerge the parts in an oil bath, or to heavely coat the parts in oil. Also for how long. tomarrow I am going to pick up some steel wool 0000 and get started. I suppose the oil soaks in so far, I use the steel wool tho remove the oil soaked rust, and repeat until I remove all rust. I will use caution with the steel wool, not pressing down or rubbing the same area too long. There seems to be some pitting where rust has taken hold and those areas will probably prove to be the hardest areas to remove the rust.

Thanks to all who replied

Enzo

MFC those videos are great, thanks alot man

Enzo

Enzo,
Use a penny to scrape the really tough areas as Croluger suggesed. Your right about the 0000 steel wool, don't rub in one spot too much with it, but definitly use it. Make sure the metal is very wet with solvent while doing this, and when the solvent gets rusty wipe it off and apply some fresh solvent.
Your going to be grinning fom ear too ear when you see how good your luger looks compaired too before.
I got those videos from someone on this forum. Just passing on a good deed. If a picture is worth a thousand words, how many is a video worth?
Mike C.

I have never used a penney but if you flatten the mouth of a shell case it gives you a nice square brass scraping tool that can be used on the heavier rust scale. Also, just as suggested with the steel wool, use a generous amount of oil when scraping which will keep the scale in suspension and make it easier to wipe of as you go. The copper or brass will leave a bit of color on the gun but that is mainly on the rust part and will come right off with oil and 0000 steel wool.

Thats great, thanks for replying. What about the "soak it in oil" part. Does this mean to heavely coat or literally soak in an oil bath? Also for how long, 5 hours one week?

Enzo
MFC your right about the videos, they are priceless. Especially to some one like me who has never preformed this intrecate operation.

Just DO NOT soak the grips in oil... remove them carefully first.

Thanks John, I was extreemly carful when taking the grips off. Man those things looked and felt very fragel. I have it almost all the way apart now. The recoil lever pin is stuck pretty good, so I am letting it soak until it cooperates.

Enzo,
Put it in a ziploc bag and spray it with oil (WD-40 which has a solvent in it) until it is dripping wet making sure you get into all crevices. That should be enough without actually submerging it. The next day blast it with gunscrubber to blow out as much rust as possible and do it all over again if you think it needs it.
Use a good gun oil in the final process instead of WD-40, because as the solvents evaporate, it thickens.
Mike C.