For clean up for everything but the bore if I have been shooting copper jacketed bullets, I use Ed's Red. Generally I use Automatic Transmission Fluid as a lubricant if I am not going to store the gun for any long time period over a year. The best protectant and lubricant I have found that is not too thick, but protects extremely well against wear, not to mention rust is CorrosionX. I wipe the guns I have in storage once a year with it and put a drop or two of it here and there with a lightly CorrosionX'ed patch down the bore and I have yet to have one fleck of rust anywhere on my guns.

There have been a couple of corrosion tests posted on the internet on various lubricants. Here is one that came up on a Goggle search; there was another a few years ago using steel plates (not nails as this one) and showed CLP Breakfree was superior. Also, on one of the Gunsmithing Videos, they state that Breakfree forms a molecular bond to the metal which prevents corrosion.
http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

I have seen other tests that showed break free to be average and EzeeOX and CorrosionX to be superior. I guess it depends on the conditions in which the tests are being conducted. The link you included in your last post does not have CorrosionX as a tested product. It is used in Marine and Aviation environments that are much more severe than any of our guns would normally find themselves exposed to.

I have cleaned my guns for years with paint thinner. You can use it over and over. I pour it back into the gallon container and all the particulates settle to the bottom. Comes out clean when you pour again.

I use white lithium grease on the slide rails and break free all over.

Jerry Burney

Sounds like a good recipe to me Jerry... I would just make sure that the paint thinner doesn't touch bakelite grips or for that matter, wooden grips.

John, Yes of course! I always remove grips first thing when I clean my pistols. Paint thinner is pretty much non caustic to wood or bakalite I would guess but it's never a good idea

In the shop, I use a mixture of about 2/3 paint thinner and 1/3 Hoppe #9......works great.....but paint thinner will wash all protective waxs from wood.

Continuing in this vein, I have a 1940 Mauser that I will probably NEVER shoot. It's for display only, and I'd like to know how often I should lubricate it, or what type of protectant I should apply.

It's in a display case that hovers around 29-35% humidity, all year 'round.....

Since Breakfree is said to form a molecular bond to the metal which prevents corrosion, would that be something I should consider?

Cheers,
Bob.

Remington's Rem-oil, I have a pair of soft cotton gloves I keep in the vault with my collection, I give the gloves a good spray once in a while, and handle all my Lugers with gloved hands....for other gun's and gun use a little rem-oil on a small rag and give it a good once over......for wood stock that can dry out on you, I use min-wax paste and a light rub down before it looks like it needs it......hope this is of help

Almost anything that is reasonable will work if as John indicates you make sure the grips don't get soaked in it for too long. Ed's Red pretty much takes care of everything in a good dunk tank. It has even gotten under some serious rust and gets burned on, caked on powder fouling off the guns faster than anything I have ever used. The fact that it is so effective and costs so little is the real kicker for me.

I remember an "exposed nail" test done by a gun mag some years ago where there were control nails, salt spray and normal exposure.

I was surprised when WD40 scored near the bottom for corrosion protection. I have never used it as a rust preventative on any of my firearms since.

good, for most oil needs, stay away from WD40.....but it is good for flushing water of metal should it get wet.

Our forum-friend 'Morgan Kane' (Steinar) did an extensive gun oil test on this very forum last year. You may want to look for that thread.

Update:
Hah, found it! http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthre...light=oil+test

WD 40, Mobil 1 engine oil, Break Free and RIG + P Stainless Steel won the 'salt dip test'.

One product that did not get tested and would have gotten excellent corrosion resistance results is CorrosionX, it is also an excellent lubricant with fairly long term storage qualities. They have a "HD" or heavy duty version that works better than anything else I have used for long term storage. If the US Navy likes it for these qualities, it probably is good and works. I wipe all my Lugers over with it once a year and they look fantastic.

WD-40 is a "Water Dispersant" not a long term rust prevention product.

One thing I like about CorrosionX is the guns clean up very easily with it. I fired my DWM Luger this weekend with Winchester White Box and it was a lead pipe cinch to clean afterwards. I only had one malufinction with it in about 100 rounds. It was a failure to fully extract and the next round in the magazine jammed under it. My brass key got it out and the gun functioned perfectly after that. I want to handload some hard cast lead 125 grain bullets to duplicate the performance. Any suggestions?

Target Load
 

Hi:

Here is a good target load for you:

3.7 gr of Bullseye

OAL (Roundnose) 1.173 inches.

Try that one. For me, it is less than an inch at 25 yards (over a sandbag hold).

Sieger

Excellent, I will try to get some loaded up this week and take it to the range ASAP. Thanks!

Hi:

Vary your load between about 3.6 to 3.8 of Bullseye.

Your Luger will tell you which is best for it.

Sieger

BTW, do you have any other loads with different powders that have similar results?