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Mark |
remove hold open
For testing purposes, remove the hold open all together! It is not needed for any primary function?... best, GT:cheers:
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In case I never mentioned it, with no magazine installed in the pistol, I can pull the toggle back as if I'm cycling a round for shooting and the toggle will stick back. Just a thumb tap and it goes forward as normal. Does it with or without the hold open, so I know that isn't it. The problem is relatively recent, too, which is why I'm ordering new springs. For anyone reading: I am ordering the multipack from Wolff, with the 36, 38, and 40# springs. Which is the one that is standard issue? It says 38# is the standard, but I figuered the more knowledgable here would know. |
very rarely...
Hi Mark, I have seen, only once, where the ejector was hanging up on the corresponding groove in the breechblock, It wasn't locked all the way back, but was stuck pretty tightly most of the way back? remove the ejector and see if it affects the outcome?... best, GT
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mainspring
could the mainspring be broken ?
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Just thought of it!
Something that could be the culprit that i haven't seen mentioned is the barrel flange could be interfering with the frame on the bottom of the chamber area in the front of the pistol? This is more likely to happen than one might think? It is very close tolerance and can be checked for very easily... best, til...lat'r....GT...;)
BTW, this is also the area that receives the most deformation during re-barreling and it could be a result of that type of operation?... BTW squared, remember what I recently said about the cure being as far away from the problem as you can get! This could be one of those!!! |
With most likely candidates ruled out, how about the S-shaped connecting hook being bent out of shape?
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One thing, as I think about this, is that I haven't considered that the mainspring that was supposedly replaced could have been replaced with a weaker one than original. That could be why it looks new but is potentially failing. It is one explanation that would fit the circumstances. The exact same thing happened several years ago on my P226 when I replaced it with a spring that was 30% lighter than the original. It lasted a couple of years and one day, all of a sudden, stopped striking primers hard enough to ignite. So I'm going to wait and see when I get new springs. There still feels like some sort of interference in the pulling of the toggle, so that has to be considered. |
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The Luger action is finely balanced. There were a range of recoil springs used in the different models and eras of Lugers. The forum FAQ document has a copy of the table.
Recoil springs came in different wire thicknesses with different numbers of coils. If you remove the recoil spring, you can manually operate the action and feel if it is binding at different points in it's cycle, and especially toward the end of it's movement. If there is no binding of any kind, look to the possibility of wear or deformation changing the geometry of the hooks or s link in the recoil spring linkage. Also check for wear of the frame where the axel pin rides. Removal and installation of the recoil spring is a fairly specialized job. It takes a properly designed tool to actually do it without damaging the gun or yourself. Use great care... it's under fair compression. Our FAQ is free and can be downloaded by following the FAQ link on every forum page. |
I would not expect a weak or strong mainspring to keep the toggle locked back. That's why I'm considering the linking mechanism (s-hook and lever) as most other causes have been ruled out.
But remote diagnosis is difficult. |
re-barrel issue
Hi Mark, in my previous post I mentioned that the receiver might be touching on the front of the frame, actually it occurs when the "New" barrels flange is a few thousands larger dia. then the receiver, and it can then drag or stick on the frame relief area?... best, GT
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one coming
Hi Mark, I've included an "S" coupling link in with what i sent you... should arrive soon... best, til...lat'r...GT:cheers:
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Could you describe "the toggle sticks in the open bolt position" a little better? If by this description you mean the toggle only partially closes (does not fully return to battery), I have had this issue before on a couple shooters. I traced the problem to a defective extractor on one. On the other, the culprit was too-weak ammo.
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I can't lose by asking this question. If the OP advises that indeed the pistol is locking open with no hold open in the gun, I will have learned something. If he advises the toggle is doing something short of locking open, we will have valuable clarification and be able to better assist. |
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