pre-WW1?

[Dwight Gruber]

The firing pin should have the last two numerals of the serial number. Here's the list:

Frame, full serial number with suffix
Under barrel, full serial number with or without suffix
Left side of the receiver, full serial number without suffix.

All the following parts have the last two numerals:

Firing pin
Extractor
Sear bar
Breechblock
Front toggle link
Rear toggle link
Locking bolt (takedown lever)
Side plate
Trigger
Safety lever
Safety bar
Hold-open latch
Grips (inside)

Note, that the rear toggle pin was not serial-numbered until 1932, and would not be proper for your gun.

There were two "styles" of serial number marking, Commercial style and Military style. In commercial style some of the numbers, noteably the side-plate and locking bolt, were stamped underneath in a way which did not affect the surface look of the gun--military serial numbers were stamped on the visible suraces. If your mismatched parts are stamped highly visibly they likely come from military guns.

The letters stamped in various places are workers' stamps. I have never come across a source which explains them in detail.

Commercial 7.65mm--.30 Luger--ammunition is not easy to find, and is not cheap. Also, it may be too underpowered to make your Luger function properly. Do a search on .30 ammunition, there have been a number of discussions on the forum which have dealt with this topic pretty thoroughly.

--Dwight