How to Repair - Luger breech block wear- striker spring guide comes out

DonVoigt · 10-05-2018, 09:40 AM

Retained by loctite and is an interference fit. Though it could be soldered if you wish.

One most likely will have to use a vertical mill, carbide (short) bit, I did
The breech lock has sufficient flat surface on the top to hold in a good vise.

Rick W. · 10-05-2018, 02:15 PM

I was curious if Rickybill's gunsmith had problems with the interrupted cut or if he came in from both sides, which of course, is more setup time and indexing. All in all, small mill bits have a bit more rigidity than twist drills, but both(especially small diameter) can be wondering jennies if you are a bit lax.

I believe I remember years ago of seeing a threaded pin, threaded only where it needs to be, to fix a breechblock that had this failed condition. I asked why he used a threaded pin rather than friction fit or a new then, loctite retainer, he told me seemed like a good idea at the time........but he was a fussy guy really; he did not know what close was.

At any rate, I will study Rickybill's picture about how the pin was placed etc, to attempt my broken breechblock that I was sold 30 years ago. Just stuck it away, looks like the time to make it or break it I reckon. I appreciate the picture and comment RB. Hopefully it will not join the bone pile in the back yard.

Rickybill · 10-05-2018, 10:40 PM

He did drill in from both sides.
Because the hole is not centered on a flat surface, some tool - I'm not a machinist - was used to cut down to a point where the drill could go straight in without wandering.
The pin was fixed with green Loctite.

My gunsmith will drill the hole and install a pin for $50, if anyone wants that part of the work done, leaving the fitting to the owner.
After his experience with my breechblock, he can do it again much more easily than the first one.
This is a terrible picture, and that's why I didn't use it before, but you should be able to see the pin, with the part blocking the bore of the breechblock reduced with a small, round needle file.

Rick W. · 10-06-2018, 09:01 AM

Rickybill,

Thanks a lot for the detailed pictures of the pin in your repair. Lots of information there for me to ponder. Gives me the gumption to try it myself on a blown breechblock(obvious high pressure) that I have, fixed years ago by someone with brazing. Of course, failed sometime over the years before I got it. Have kept it for some odd reason, perhaps today is the day.

I suspect knowing me, that I will consider use of a Henkel retainer, as it is made for cylindical, non threaded surfaces. Similar material is used to lock sleeves in engines like the corvette. Also has a higher temperature point, if that matters to anyone. The retainer stuff has been good to me over the many years of doing front banded sights on high power rifles, easier cleanup than the old silver solder(soft or hard). Even old guys still have to learn ti seems here.

I am pondering the advantage of the threaded pin versus one that is affixed by other means........but just thinkin now............

appreciate your time to help me out.

Rick W.

10-05-2018, 09:40 AM	#1
DonVoigt User Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: near Charlotte NC Posts: 4,681 Thanks: 1,443 Thanked 4,356 Times in 2,041 Posts	Retained by loctite and is an interference fit. Though it could be soldered if you wish. One most likely will have to use a vertical mill, carbide (short) bit, I did The breech lock has sufficient flat surface on the top to hold in a good vise. __________________ 03man(Don Voigt); Luger student and collector. Looking for DWM side plate: 69 ; Dreyse 1907 pistol K.S. Gendarmerie

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10-05-2018, 02:15 PM	#2
Rick W. User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 339 Thanks: 81 Thanked 359 Times in 198 Posts	I was curious if Rickybill's gunsmith had problems with the interrupted cut or if he came in from both sides, which of course, is more setup time and indexing. All in all, small mill bits have a bit more rigidity than twist drills, but both(especially small diameter) can be wondering jennies if you are a bit lax. I believe I remember years ago of seeing a threaded pin, threaded only where it needs to be, to fix a breechblock that had this failed condition. I asked why he used a threaded pin rather than friction fit or a new then, loctite retainer, he told me seemed like a good idea at the time........but he was a fussy guy really; he did not know what close was. At any rate, I will study Rickybill's picture about how the pin was placed etc, to attempt my broken breechblock that I was sold 30 years ago. Just stuck it away, looks like the time to make it or break it I reckon. I appreciate the picture and comment RB. Hopefully it will not join the bone pile in the back yard.

10-06-2018, 09:01 AM	#4
Rick W. User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 339 Thanks: 81 Thanked 359 Times in 198 Posts	Rickybill, Thanks a lot for the detailed pictures of the pin in your repair. Lots of information there for me to ponder. Gives me the gumption to try it myself on a blown breechblock(obvious high pressure) that I have, fixed years ago by someone with brazing. Of course, failed sometime over the years before I got it. Have kept it for some odd reason, perhaps today is the day. I suspect knowing me, that I will consider use of a Henkel retainer, as it is made for cylindical, non threaded surfaces. Similar material is used to lock sleeves in engines like the corvette. Also has a higher temperature point, if that matters to anyone. The retainer stuff has been good to me over the many years of doing front banded sights on high power rifles, easier cleanup than the old silver solder(soft or hard). Even old guys still have to learn ti seems here. I am pondering the advantage of the threaded pin versus one that is affixed by other means........but just thinkin now............ appreciate your time to help me out. Rick W.