Telltale Signs of a Refinished Luger

[ithacaartist]

We have a GREAT list of tells established here, +1 on the sticky!

If I may, I'll add a few more.

1. The little pin that retains the central toggle axle was "in the white" on originals before salt bluing was commenced by Mauser production. The toggle joint's parts were rust blued while separate, then assembled with an unfinished pin.

2. Serial numbers stamped on the barrels normally display "halos"

3. Rust blued guns also have grip frames which should be "in the white" on the inside.

[Dwight Gruber]

Originally Posted by ithacaartist

1. The little pin that retains the central toggle axle was "in the white" on originals before salt bluing was commenced by Mauser production. The toggle joint's parts were rust blued while separate, then assembled with an unfinished pin.

Be careful. Many refinishers have caught on to this one, and are "re-whiting" this pin. Be suspicious of pins which are too bright--almost polished--and dead even with the surface of the toggle piece.

Originally these pins were simply cut off (lathe cut) from stock and pressed into place. They have a characteristic "teat" in the center, remnant of the cutting process. A pin end which is smooth has been removed and tapped back into place by a hammer. The pins were often pressed just below the toggle surface, and can be rimmed by grime. The pin faces do not really rust but they do considerably darken with age, to the extent that it is often extremely difficult to differentiate them from the adjacent blued surface. There is a slight color difference, which sometimes shows up a little better in photos than by eye.

--Dwight

[Eugen]

Originally Posted by Dwight Gruber

Be careful. Many refinishers have caught on to this one, and are "re-whiting" this pin. Be suspicious of pins which are too bright--almost polished--and dead even with the surface of the toggle piece.

Originally these pins were simply cut off (lathe cut) from stock and pressed into place. They have a characteristic "teat" in the center, remnant of the cutting process. A pin end which is smooth has been removed and tapped back into place by a hammer. The pins were often pressed just below the toggle surface, and can be rimmed by grime. The pin faces do not really rust but they do considerably darken with age, to the extent that it is often extremely difficult to differentiate them from the adjacent blued surface. There is a slight color difference, which sometimes shows up a little better in photos than by eye.

--Dwight

Golly, Dwight, there are some sneaky folks out there. But, then an honest guy trying to restore his precious Luger will want to do the same thing. I have sure learned a lot in this thread from all the comments from the masters.

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by Dwight Gruber

Be careful. Many refinishers have caught on to this one, and are "re-whiting" this pin. Be suspicious of pins which are too bright--almost polished--and dead even with the surface of the toggle piece.

Originally these pins were simply cut off (lathe cut) from stock and pressed into place. They have a characteristic "teat" in the center, remnant of the cutting process. A pin end which is smooth has been removed and tapped back into place by a hammer. The pins were often pressed just below the toggle surface, and can be rimmed by grime. The pin faces do not really rust but they do considerably darken with age, to the extent that it is often extremely difficult to differentiate them from the adjacent blued surface. There is a slight color difference, which sometimes shows up a little better in photos than by eye.

--Dwight

Sometimes a tricky call to make because of the natural darkening. I've noticed the little teat you mention, and its method of creation by lathe cut-off makes perfect sense. Strong magnification can be our best friend!