need help stripping a 1912 Erfurt for re-finish

[ithacaartist]

Hey Mark, as Yogi Berra said, "It ain't over until it's over". The jury is still out; let's see what results from the full-strength bath in methylene chloride.

If it does need blasting, I think it could be rust blued again if the surface were sanded and trued after the nooks and crannies are cleaned out. Though the evidence of any such treatment will always exist, it would probably satisfy my OCD!

[sthomp]

All right guys...IT'S OVER. I got the parts back today from the local plating shop...they did a wonderful job on it (see pics below). There are a few little spots in some stampings and old pits that didn't come completely clean, but it's 99% in my estimation. Now just getting it ready to ship off to have it re-blued and strawed.
My STRONG advice to anyone faced with this tough of a strip job...take it to a professional!
Many thanks to everyone for their suggestions and best wishes. I will try to remember to post "after" pics when I get it all back together. Steve

[rhuff]

Really glad to hear that you were finally successful. It appears as though your restorer now has a good starting place to start making it pretty. I , like many others, frequently feel like I have to give things "a try", but if unsuccessful, then I have to turn to the folks that are really good at the job, and will do it correctly. I look forward to seeing the end product.

[kubel]

OK, so I guess the $64 question is, "How'd they do it?" Did they just leave it in a MC bath for a week, pulled it out and "Wah-Lah", all done? Or was there more to it than that? I don't want to infringe on anyone's "trade secrets" but I'd be interested to know how it was done....particularly after all of the other failed attempts.

[sthomp]

kubel...I didn't ask for all the details when I picked up the parts as I was so happy with the result. Based on what the owner told me when I took them in (he wasn't there when I picked up), I know they used Methylene Chloride (DCM or di chloro methane). Since I had used a stripper bought from an auto supply house which had MC as the active agent, but at a concentration of 16% as I remember, and did see noticeable affect, but no knockout punch, I believe they used a much stronger concentration and perhaps some very light buffing. There was no sign that the MC had any affect on the metal...very good thing, so time in solution I don't think would be critical. The problem for us types is obtaining and safely using a stronger solution. Given that this cost me $42 and I had already spent north of $100 on my failed attempts...no brainer, don't even think about it!
Parts shipped today for rebluing and strawing. Steve

[sthomp]

DONE!!!! I just got back from GT's house after putting it all back together. I received the parts from the refinisher, Charles Danner in KY a couple of days ago. I cannot say enough good about Charles' work. Given what we started with (see early pics) and what I sent him, I could not be more pleased with the outcome. As you remember, things looked very iffy in the beginning due to the Brit coating. One thing I did ask Charles to do was remove the British proof marks on the bottom of the barrel (some may disagree with that...but my choice). Compare the before and after bottom barrel. All in all, the result is actually better than I had hoped for. This is not a highly collectable "mint" Luger, but it sure is pretty! See for yourself.
My thanks, best wishes and a belated Merry Christmas to all of you who contributed your thoughts, ideas and encouragement.
Steve