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#1 |
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User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Merritt Island, Fl
Posts: 952
Thanks: 777
Thanked 528 Times in 290 Posts
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I'm impressed!
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#2 |
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User
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 32
Thanks: 0
Thanked 193 Times in 24 Posts
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We try it from the beginning then.
I really like the Luger as a targetpistol, but the gun is to light and I needed to make another solution for the rear toggle. So first is here the turning and chambering of the barre. |
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#3 |
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User
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 32
Thanks: 0
Thanked 193 Times in 24 Posts
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I really wanted an adjustable sight, and previously I have seen that no adjustable sights really seems to survive the violence on the rear toggle in the long run.
So here is the new manufacured toggle. Starting with a piece of Uddeholm Calmax steel hardened to 50 HRC. Hardening is done in a furnace in 960 degrees celcius. |
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#4 |
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User
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 32
Thanks: 0
Thanked 193 Times in 24 Posts
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This luger was a bit sloppy so I pressed it a bit tighter in the vise. To not overpress it I placed some gaugeblocks in the frame.
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#5 |
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User
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 32
Thanks: 0
Thanked 193 Times in 24 Posts
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Triggerpull.
Many lugers have their triggerpulls destroyed by wrong adjustments. So I usally weld up the sear and the firing pin with hardened steel and blueprint them to specifications. |
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#6 |
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User
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 32
Thanks: 0
Thanked 193 Times in 24 Posts
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Some triggerpins fits rather poorly, so I decided to change the fit of it.
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#7 |
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User
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 32
Thanks: 0
Thanked 193 Times in 24 Posts
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The frame with it's stocklug is much nicer if the stocklugg is removed. So here is the stocklugg removed and welded shut.
Frame gets 30 lpi checkering on both front and rear strap. |
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| The following 5 members says Thank You to Spuhr for your post: |
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