Luger Heavy Barrel Not Cycling

[mrerick]

When you have to manually extract the cartridge case, do you do this by hand operating the toggle train?

Do you feel any particular resistance early in manually extracting a fired case?

If so, you might have some shape or surface finish issues in the chamber.

If you adjust spring length / tension be sure to use some masking tape at the rear of the frame between the receiver ears where the rear toggle will hit the frame. If recoil resistance gets too light, you could end up peening this area.

[Blastattack]

Originally Posted by rhuff

You might consider reducing the main/recoil spring weight. Wolff springs sells reduced spring weights for the P-08.

Is your extractor attempting to remove the spent brass?

You will most likely have to "play" with different approaches to get you P08 to function correctly. I would be very cautious about trying to reload the 30 Luger brass to a lot higher velocity level than factory. You well have a new strong steel barrel, but have a 90 year old frame and toggle assy.

If you are a reloader, you could produce a small number(say 10) of each powder level, increasing 0.1gr of powder for each group, watching very closely for over pressure.

I have a set of Wolff springs on order. I do so very hope that using the reduced power spring will fix everything, however I realize ammo may need to be changed around. I'm thinking I would start with a heavier bullet before I start increasing the charge. A heavier bullet should keep the same recoil energy needed to unlock the toggle, but should stay in the barrel longer and keep enough pressure to extract, eject and load a fresh round into the chamber. Has anyone played around with 110 gr. bullets?

Originally Posted by mrerick

When you have to manually extract the cartridge case, do you do this by hand operating the toggle train?

Do you feel any particular resistance early in manually extracting a fired case?

If so, you might have some shape or surface finish issues in the chamber.

If you adjust spring length / tension be sure to use some masking tape at the rear of the frame between the receiver ears where the rear toggle will hit the frame. If recoil resistance gets too light, you could end up peening this area.

Yes, currently extraction and ejection has to be done by hand. There is no noticeable resistance encountered, the pistol still extracts the case about 1/8", but doesn't have the pressure to open the toggle completely. However, receiver cycles far enough back to recock the striker, and I can "fire" the gun on the already fired case. Chamber is cut perfectly clean, and done so with a brand new reamer, so no surface finish issues there.

As to the peening issue, are you referring to the tab/protrusion at the very back of the rear toggle, which stops the upward rotation of the rear toggle, or are you talking about the surface at the back of the pocket inside the frame, just above the lanyard loop?