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#1 |
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User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Marco Island, Florida
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If memory serves, you are supposed to lift the spring steel lip, which is curved up, off the first raised detent and swing it over the second raised detent and the spring steel cover will lift out, but I would wait for more sage advice..
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#2 |
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Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: ...on the 'ol Erie Canal...
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Looking at Tafel2 from the Borchardt owners manual, that T-thingie can't be very big...
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I like my coffee the way I like my women... ...Cold and bitter...
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#3 |
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RIP
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 101
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Probably should have explained more, this is one I'm building. The 'T' lug would be about 3/16's x 1/4", I'd say. The rectangular hole, in the frame, running lengthwise., It's the inside that's got me bamboozaled. The pic herein is my build, The pic above off the net.
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#4 |
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Moderator
2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso
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Does this help?
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If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction |
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#5 |
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RIP
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 101
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It helps to the extent it verifies what I thought of the dust covers construction. The pic with the cover off indicates the rollers seem to butt up against the interior walls of the frame, which is how I made mine. The question is how the interior of the frame was milled. That is, the lugs/'T' lug, whatever you call it, seemingly must be flush with the interior frame wall. But, how the heck to drill, mill, gouge or otherwise make a recess. That, or I'm completely missing something. The only way I can even think to do it is to go in with a 'ball' shaped diamond bit on my dremel flex shaft and just 'hog' it out! Would work I guess, but sloppy, to say the least. Thanks though, Ron, for those pics! Bill
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#6 |
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Lifer X5
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: texas
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be sure and let me know first, so i can get out of town.....
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