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Wow, I'm overwhelmed with all of these responses! I disassembled and reassembled the gun tonight, but haven't cleaned, I ran out of time. I'll be cleaning it soon. I removed the grips and checked them. One of them is obviously wider and seemingly less worn, but it has the same serial number. I did not see a part on it that isn't matching, which surprised me. The magazine is not matching however. One problem I found, is I can't get it the toggle to snap down when the magazine is in. It will release when the mag is released, and then it will will click with the pull of the trigger as normal. Any idea why it might be doing this?
Thanks everyone. |
SS Crucifix.?
I picked up a couple of the same style Crucifix last year......and the Skull & Crossbones at the foot of the Cross......means "victory over death".....has nothing to do with the SS.......these are fairly common......
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Double check to make sure that the small link at the rear of the receiver has properly caught the recoil spring lever (that leads down into the grip area).
Generally follow the re-assembly instructions on this site. It's easy to miss hooking the recoil link properly. Marc |
A Dutch is still on my list,I hope your grandmother leaves it to you as so many times I see family members have no appreciation for items left to them.
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The bolt hold open, is activated by the follower of the empty magazine. Unless this pistol would not have a bolt hold open lock; it is normal for the bolt to lock open with empty mag in place.
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Well, I believe that is the verse which explains golgotha, the hill where Jesus Christ was crucified. "Place of the Skull" or something like that. The crucifix skull thing is no issue here.
And yes, the s-hook is in place, I made sure of that when I reassembled the gun. I am not sure if there is a hold open device that is activated when the magazine is empty. |
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That's because the actual reference in John is at 19:17.
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Thanks! :thumbup:
Someday I'll have to actually read this... :D |
I know this gun is definitely NOT a shooter, but if we don't plan on ever selling it, would it really hurt that much to shoot a few magazines every once in a while?
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Totally up to the owner. As long as they understand that breaking a part will significantly lower the value and rob a future generation of one more complete, matching historical pistol.
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Value
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I thought it an interesting perspective. It made me think. At the end of the day, whatever you own when you die is worthless (to you, anyway). Jack |
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Also, if you look really closely at the pictures I posted at the start of this thread, there's a small space just a millimeter or so wide between the toggle mechanism and where the barrel begins. I can clearly see into the chamber area through the space. Any idea what is causing this? |
Can anyone help me with this?
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I think you're describing the gap between the front of the breech block (where the extractor is located) and the rear of the chamber.
A very small gap may be normal. You may also have a problem with dirt under the extractor. Too large a gap may cause a headspace problem which can become rather dangerous. The rear of the cartridge base needs to be supported by the face of the breech block when the Luger is in battery. Marc |
I have cleaned it thoroughly and don't think that dirt is an issue. Is there a possible mechanical/structural issue here?
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My guess would be a re-assembly issue. Like the computer geeks refer to as an "I. D. ten T" error. Can you send us a few more photos of the problem areas and members can help out. Maybe the spring hooks are not getting picked up during reassembly?
dju |
I'll be sure to get a few new photos.
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Also, when the gun is disassembled and the chamber is confirmed to be EMPTY, does the toggle close all the way? If you focus close enough you should be able to feel, hear or see what points are making contact and stopping forward travel. And by "disassembled" I mean with the upper slid off the lower.
dju |
You'll have to bear with me on these photos, I took them with my phone. Here you can see the issue.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...2C5CBA6136.jpg Relatively clean breach block area. http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...2C22A8141A.jpg Rear of the chamber where the extractor slides in. I made sure to scrape out any debris (there really was none). http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...2C392426FE.jpg You can see that the S-hook is properly engaged in the main spring. (Yes I see the rust. The flash definitely exaggerates it, I have only scrubbed with cotton patches at this point, haven't gotten around to attacking with some steel wool.) http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...2C3119275A.jpg There is a little bit of rust in this area. Honestly there isn't enough to cause this. http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...2C09F4B239.jpg And here are the grips, because I never gave pictures of them. The one on the left is the GS stamped on. The one on the right is the original one. http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...2C1074F2F8.jpg I will be getting after the rust soon, but I'm wondering if there are any lugerforum members in Arkansas, USA that might like to look at the gun in person, if they feel they can help with this issue. |
I want to know how somebody could take a gun to school these days.
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It was like 5 years ago. Check the dates at the beginning of this thread.
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Wiley, excellent - remember, cleaning with less is better than more (light 0000 steel wool etc)
You know I love these guns, don't have one right now :) so slightly jealous Ed |
I realize that this post began almost five years ago but to set the current thinking right, Dr. Geoff Sturgess in his now two monumental three volume works Pistole Parabellum (co-authored by the now late Joachim Gortz) goes to extreme lengths, comparing almost part by part, dimension by dimension, measurement by measurement, concluding that Vickers did indeed manufacture the Vickers luger and ended up losing large sums of money in the process. It is questionable that ANY DWM parts found their way into the Vickers luger.
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