DWM Shooter Refresh

[DonVoigt]

I think it looks fine.
You really can't put "back" metal removed in buffing.

Re-heat the spring-
polish it white, then heat just to achieve the blue, quench immediately. Don't go any farther and you won't change the spring's "springiness". But be very careful, the thin spring will go from white to straw and past blue in an instant- really should be done in a controlled oven/furnace- your kitchen stove won't get hot enough.

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

I think it looks fine.
You really can't put "back" metal removed in buffing.

Re-heat the spring-
polish it white, then heat just to achieve the blue, quench immediately. Don't go any farther and you won't change the spring's "springiness". But be very careful, the thin spring will go from white to straw and past blue in an instant- really should be done in a controlled oven/furnace- your kitchen stove won't get hot enough.

How I do fire blue and straw is by using a toaster oven. You'll need to calibrate it and put a reference mark on the temp. dial if you want to repeat the process without hunting for the proper setting all over again. The secret is to use a metal container of sand, in which the parts are immersed, and temper the sand on a trial setting for about 45 minutes-an hr. It will act as a buffer to prevent over-temping the thin portions of the parts, all of which are heated to the temperature of the sand and no higher. For straw, start out around 350 degrees (because the scale is relative/nominal) on the dial. Check the color of the parts after about 20 min.-half hr. If not hot enough, bump the setting on the dial, re-temper the sand, and heat the parts in it again. In the event you go too far, simply re-polish and try again at a lower setting. For fire blue, the temp may be closer to the max on the dial, but still not hot enough to draw springs down and change the temper.