New to me Interarms Parabellum

Tango3 · 09-15-2016, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrerick

Be careful of over cleaning things. After most range sessions, I wipe the gun down, run a boresnake through it, lightly oil it and spray it down with a preserving gun oil like RemOil.

After several hundred rounds, I'll disassemble it and do a more thorough cleaning.

I store my guns in silicone impregnated socks or bore-stores. Beware of actually getting some forms of silicone on the gun surfaces. Blued surfaces, including the salt blued finish on your Interarms Luger, are pretty resilient. Just don't leave fingerprints or moisture on them for long periods of time. Don't store guns in holsters.

It's not a good idea to dry fire a Luger. The area of the breech face where the firing pin protrudes is rather thin, and it's all that stops the firing pin when nothing is in the chamber. Look it over to be sure it's still nice and flat.

I do think that these Interarms Lugers are collectible, but in a different sense and class as compared to military Lugers or DWM / Mauser commercial Lugers. There were not that many made, and few remain pristine examples. They are very well made, and their high cost of manufacture ultimately lead to them being discontinued. The market simply could not bear the high price. Estimates for reviving Luger manufacture today run into the $5,000 range.

Marc
What, specifically, is the danger (danger is probably too strong a word) of over-cleaning the weapon? I ask 'cause I know I'm OCD in cleaning (albeit carefully) my 11s but that hasn't been a problem with them.

+ on silicon socks. I use them on all my 11s and already have the Parabellum wrapped in its own. I wipe my guns down before putting them away, however, the non-blued finishes on them make fingerprints a non worry. I'll make sure to take care of that with this weapon. I never store my 11s in holsters and that'll even be easier with the Parabellum since it won't possibly fit in any I own. I conceal carry my 11s but have no plans to do so with the Parabellum. This is the very first handgun I own that violates a rule I have that it must have the capability for CC. Oh well, my rule to break!

++ on no dry firing! Thanks for enlightening me on why, though. Much different than the firing pin set up on large caliber 1911s. I have learned how to safely de-**** the P so as not to damage it.

I must say that I'm VERY impressed with the robust and precise construction of this class of weapons. I can see why these are not currently produced since their price would place them high in the custom 1911 market!

Thanks,
Eric

Tango3 · 09-15-2016, 10:07 PM

Richard,
I haven't had the chance to field strip the Parabellum yet but have read and viewed YouTube videos and it looks easy. I'll let ya know, hope to find time to do it tomorrow so as to take it to the range on Saturday.

"...although some are beautiful machines." Are you intimating that Ps are beautiful and 11s aren't? Just messin' wid ya. I do find my 11s beautiful ('specially my Les Baer Commanche Heavyweight Monolith) but I must say that they have a much more "industrial" beauty than the sleek beauty of the P-08.

I'm surprised by the number of you who aren't anal about the meticulous cleaning of these close tolerance weapons. In the 1911 world, tightly constructed (close tolerance) means clean it carefully and frequently as opposed to a loosely fit weapon although I've run as much as 750 rounds through my tightly fitted Baer Monolith during one range trip with just occasional oil with no problems. Constant 11 forum argument between the cleanly group and the leave 'em filthy group.
Since I CC my weapons, clean is how I roll.

Thanks for the Mec-gar suggestion. I've purchased and received three of 'em thinking that the factory mags might have issues with those, to me, goofy plastic bases in that they might be brittle with age. Looks like these bases have pins that have to be punched out to replace them that could be a real pain in the butt. Why don't they just make them out of metal to start with. I know...cost but it's a cost I'd gladly pay.

+ on using 115-124 gr FMJ round nose. Since it won't be a defense pistol for me, no need to fool with hollow points.

Thanks,
Eric

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09-15-2016, 10:07 PM	#2
Tango3 User Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Michigan (Native American for "too much winter") Posts: 51 Thanks: 90 Thanked 12 Times in 10 Posts	Richard, I haven't had the chance to field strip the Parabellum yet but have read and viewed YouTube videos and it looks easy. I'll let ya know, hope to find time to do it tomorrow so as to take it to the range on Saturday. "...although some are beautiful machines." Are you intimating that Ps are beautiful and 11s aren't? Just messin' wid ya. I do find my 11s beautiful ('specially my Les Baer Commanche Heavyweight Monolith) but I must say that they have a much more "industrial" beauty than the sleek beauty of the P-08. I'm surprised by the number of you who aren't anal about the meticulous cleaning of these close tolerance weapons. In the 1911 world, tightly constructed (close tolerance) means clean it carefully and frequently as opposed to a loosely fit weapon although I've run as much as 750 rounds through my tightly fitted Baer Monolith during one range trip with just occasional oil with no problems. Constant 11 forum argument between the cleanly group and the leave 'em filthy group. Since I CC my weapons, clean is how I roll. Thanks for the Mec-gar suggestion. I've purchased and received three of 'em thinking that the factory mags might have issues with those, to me, goofy plastic bases in that they might be brittle with age. Looks like these bases have pins that have to be punched out to replace them that could be a real pain in the butt. Why don't they just make them out of metal to start with. I know...cost but it's a cost I'd gladly pay. + on using 115-124 gr FMJ round nose. Since it won't be a defense pistol for me, no need to fool with hollow points. Thanks, Eric