New to me Interarms Parabellum

mrerick · 09-15-2016, 11:05 AM

Be careful of over cleaning things. After most range sessions, I wipe the gun down, run a boresnake through it, lightly oil it and spray it down with a preserving gun oil like RemOil.

After several hundred rounds, I'll disassemble it and do a more thorough cleaning.

I store my guns in silicone impregnated socks or bore-stores. Beware of actually getting some forms of silicone on the gun surfaces. Blued surfaces, including the salt blued finish on your Interarms Luger, are pretty resilient. Just don't leave fingerprints or moisture on them for long periods of time. Don't store guns in holsters.

It's not a good idea to dry fire a Luger. The area of the breech face where the firing pin protrudes is rather thin, and it's all that stops the firing pin when nothing is in the chamber. Look it over to be sure it's still nice and flat.

I do think that these Interarms Lugers are collectible, but in a different sense and class as compared to military Lugers or DWM / Mauser commercial Lugers. There were not that many made, and few remain pristine examples. They are very well made, and their high cost of manufacture ultimately lead to them being discontinued. The market simply could not bear the high price. Estimates for reviving Luger manufacture today run into the $5,000 range.

Eugen · 09-15-2016, 12:16 PM

Eric, if you are looking for a set of snap caps to be able to cycle and dry fire your Luger, I would recommend "B's" brand. Dumb name, but the best snap caps I have found...and I think I have owned all the brands out there in various calibers. They are not made of plastic (that I have had break), or have flaking coating on alum (that comes off in the gun) like some of the other popular brands commonly found everywhere. I got mine on Amazon.

rhuff · 09-15-2016, 02:31 PM

Eric,

If you are comfortable with care and cleaning of 1911s, then you should have no problems with your Luger. They are all machines.....although some are beautiful machines!!

I have a tendency to run all of my handguns fairly well lubed, and because I live in a warm climate, I do use more than just oil on the heavy friction areas(slide/frame, toggle/frame, etc.). I have been pleased with TW25b grease for a number of years now, including on subguns. I use a good quality gun oil on the less heavy friction areas like the toggle train junctions, etc.

I agree with Marc about not doing extensive breakdowns after every range trip. To me, it just isn't necessary. I do keep my guns clean and lubed, but not OCD about it.

I will suggest that if you are going to be shooting your Mauser that you purchase a few Mec-Gar aftermarket mags to use and save the originals. The original mags have a tendency to break the plastic bases when loaded fully. You don't want that to happen.....I assume.

Stick with std. velocity quality ammo in 115-124gr FMJRN, and avoid any +P,+P+, or NATO ammo. Enjoy.

Eugen · 09-15-2016, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rhuff

Eric,

I will suggest that if you are going to be shooting your Mauser that you purchase a few Mec-Gar aftermarket mags to use and save the originals. The original mags have a tendency to break the plastic bases when loaded fully. You don't want that to happen.....I assume.

I agree with rhuff. I also have found the Meg-Gar P.08 mags are sold at https://www.cdnnsports.com on specials that they run frequently for $19. I picked up several and haven't found them priced lower.

Tango3 · 09-15-2016, 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eugen

I agree with rhuff. I also have found the Meg-Gar P.08 mags are sold at https://www.cdnnsports.com on specials that they run frequently for $19. I picked up several and haven't found them priced lower.

Eugen,
I got lucky and found CDNN Sports and bought 2 of 'em along with the one Mec-gar at $29 I had previously purchased. When I compared them, they were identical except the CDNNs didn't have "Mec-gar"or "Made in Italy" stamped on it. Sounds like I made a good choice.

Thanks,
Eric

Eugen · 09-16-2016, 05:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tango3

I'm surprised by the number of you who aren't anal about the meticulous cleaning of these close tolerance weapons.

Eric, I proudly wear the label of being anal, having OCD, etc. about cleaning my Luger and other guns. I do it gently and meticulously and throughly enjoy the time spent caring for my little buddies. Heck, cleaning and caring for them is half the fun.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tango3

Eugen,
I got lucky and found CDNN Sports and bought 2 of 'em along with the one Mec-gar at $29 I had previously purchased. When I compared them, they were identical except the CDNNs didn't have "Mec-gar"or "Made in Italy" stamped on it. Sounds like I made a good choice.

Thanks,
Eric

I think Mec-Gar (dumbest name) is the sole manufacturer of all the new P.08 mags. Somebody fact check me on this. I have noticed the same slight variances on the markings on various Mec-Gar P.08 mags. But, they all work just fine. However, I have had occasionally problems with 'fail to load' at the range, if I insert that 8th round in a new mag. Smooth sailing with 7 rounds. Please report your range experience.

DonVoigt · 09-16-2016, 09:03 AM

Tango3,
As you get more experience with your luger you will answer many of your own questions.

As you have observed they are much different from 1911's, and transferring what is "good" for a 1911 to a luger just is not going to work.

Entirely different mechanisms, and have different needs.
In my experience the luger does not get as "dirty" as a 1911.

Perhaps because they are not fired as much, but maybe due to the close tolerances just not leaving nooks and crannies for dirt?

I'm not sure why you think you can't cc a luger, it certainly has the "capability"- what ever that is.

If you choose the hollow points, they will feed, I've found several that work reliably; but it does depend on the pistol, magazine, and ammo.

Also look at the truncated cone Fiocchi for defense.

I always alternate ball and hp ammo in my carry guns, after thorough testing to be sure they are 100% reliable.

Just enjoy learning the ins and outs of a new platform, they are extremely easy/quick to Field strip; and really no need to go beyond that and oiling; especially starting out with a "new" pistol.

Welcome and have fun.

Bet you can't have just one!

PS.
Do read the posts under the shooting and reloading section of this forum; especially the "shooters" threads. Lots of info and pictures there.

Tango3 · 09-16-2016, 09:30 AM

Don,
Nice to meet another clean freak. And I do, like you, enjoy the cleaning process. Very therapeutic.

Not surprised to hear that new, fully loaded mags might have round feeding issues. Not uncommon with 1911s.

I'll report back on tomorrow's planned range trip.

Eric

Tango3 · 09-15-2016, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrerick

Be careful of over cleaning things. After most range sessions, I wipe the gun down, run a boresnake through it, lightly oil it and spray it down with a preserving gun oil like RemOil.

After several hundred rounds, I'll disassemble it and do a more thorough cleaning.

I store my guns in silicone impregnated socks or bore-stores. Beware of actually getting some forms of silicone on the gun surfaces. Blued surfaces, including the salt blued finish on your Interarms Luger, are pretty resilient. Just don't leave fingerprints or moisture on them for long periods of time. Don't store guns in holsters.

It's not a good idea to dry fire a Luger. The area of the breech face where the firing pin protrudes is rather thin, and it's all that stops the firing pin when nothing is in the chamber. Look it over to be sure it's still nice and flat.

I do think that these Interarms Lugers are collectible, but in a different sense and class as compared to military Lugers or DWM / Mauser commercial Lugers. There were not that many made, and few remain pristine examples. They are very well made, and their high cost of manufacture ultimately lead to them being discontinued. The market simply could not bear the high price. Estimates for reviving Luger manufacture today run into the $5,000 range.

Marc
What, specifically, is the danger (danger is probably too strong a word) of over-cleaning the weapon? I ask 'cause I know I'm OCD in cleaning (albeit carefully) my 11s but that hasn't been a problem with them.

+ on silicon socks. I use them on all my 11s and already have the Parabellum wrapped in its own. I wipe my guns down before putting them away, however, the non-blued finishes on them make fingerprints a non worry. I'll make sure to take care of that with this weapon. I never store my 11s in holsters and that'll even be easier with the Parabellum since it won't possibly fit in any I own. I conceal carry my 11s but have no plans to do so with the Parabellum. This is the very first handgun I own that violates a rule I have that it must have the capability for CC. Oh well, my rule to break!

++ on no dry firing! Thanks for enlightening me on why, though. Much different than the firing pin set up on large caliber 1911s. I have learned how to safely de-**** the P so as not to damage it.

I must say that I'm VERY impressed with the robust and precise construction of this class of weapons. I can see why these are not currently produced since their price would place them high in the custom 1911 market!

Thanks,
Eric

Tango3 · 09-15-2016, 10:07 PM

Richard,
I haven't had the chance to field strip the Parabellum yet but have read and viewed YouTube videos and it looks easy. I'll let ya know, hope to find time to do it tomorrow so as to take it to the range on Saturday.

"...although some are beautiful machines." Are you intimating that Ps are beautiful and 11s aren't? Just messin' wid ya. I do find my 11s beautiful ('specially my Les Baer Commanche Heavyweight Monolith) but I must say that they have a much more "industrial" beauty than the sleek beauty of the P-08.

I'm surprised by the number of you who aren't anal about the meticulous cleaning of these close tolerance weapons. In the 1911 world, tightly constructed (close tolerance) means clean it carefully and frequently as opposed to a loosely fit weapon although I've run as much as 750 rounds through my tightly fitted Baer Monolith during one range trip with just occasional oil with no problems. Constant 11 forum argument between the cleanly group and the leave 'em filthy group.
Since I CC my weapons, clean is how I roll.

Thanks for the Mec-gar suggestion. I've purchased and received three of 'em thinking that the factory mags might have issues with those, to me, goofy plastic bases in that they might be brittle with age. Looks like these bases have pins that have to be punched out to replace them that could be a real pain in the butt. Why don't they just make them out of metal to start with. I know...cost but it's a cost I'd gladly pay.

+ on using 115-124 gr FMJ round nose. Since it won't be a defense pistol for me, no need to fool with hollow points.

Thanks,
Eric

09-15-2016, 11:05 AM	#1
mrerick Super Moderator - Patron LugerForum Life Patron Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Eastern North Carolina, USA Posts: 3,925 Thanks: 1,376 Thanked 3,140 Times in 1,520 Posts	Be careful of over cleaning things. After most range sessions, I wipe the gun down, run a boresnake through it, lightly oil it and spray it down with a preserving gun oil like RemOil. After several hundred rounds, I'll disassemble it and do a more thorough cleaning. I store my guns in silicone impregnated socks or bore-stores. Beware of actually getting some forms of silicone on the gun surfaces. Blued surfaces, including the salt blued finish on your Interarms Luger, are pretty resilient. Just don't leave fingerprints or moisture on them for long periods of time. Don't store guns in holsters. It's not a good idea to dry fire a Luger. The area of the breech face where the firing pin protrudes is rather thin, and it's all that stops the firing pin when nothing is in the chamber. Look it over to be sure it's still nice and flat. I do think that these Interarms Lugers are collectible, but in a different sense and class as compared to military Lugers or DWM / Mauser commercial Lugers. There were not that many made, and few remain pristine examples. They are very well made, and their high cost of manufacture ultimately lead to them being discontinued. The market simply could not bear the high price. Estimates for reviving Luger manufacture today run into the $5,000 range. __________________ Igitur si vis pacem, para bellum - - Therefore if you want peace, prepare for war.

09-16-2016, 09:03 AM	#7
DonVoigt User Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: near Charlotte NC Posts: 4,683 Thanks: 1,443 Thanked 4,358 Times in 2,042 Posts	Tango3, As you get more experience with your luger you will answer many of your own questions. As you have observed they are much different from 1911's, and transferring what is "good" for a 1911 to a luger just is not going to work. Entirely different mechanisms, and have different needs. In my experience the luger does not get as "dirty" as a 1911. Perhaps because they are not fired as much, but maybe due to the close tolerances just not leaving nooks and crannies for dirt? I'm not sure why you think you can't cc a luger, it certainly has the "capability"- what ever that is. If you choose the hollow points, they will feed, I've found several that work reliably; but it does depend on the pistol, magazine, and ammo. Also look at the truncated cone Fiocchi for defense. I always alternate ball and hp ammo in my carry guns, after thorough testing to be sure they are 100% reliable. Just enjoy learning the ins and outs of a new platform, they are extremely easy/quick to Field strip; and really no need to go beyond that and oiling; especially starting out with a "new" pistol. Welcome and have fun. Bet you can't have just one! PS. Do read the posts under the shooting and reloading section of this forum; especially the "shooters" threads. Lots of info and pictures there. __________________ 03man(Don Voigt); Luger student and collector. Looking for DWM side plate: 69 ; Dreyse 1907 pistol K.S. Gendarmerie

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09-15-2016, 02:31 PM	#3
rhuff Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Az. Posts: 2,316 Thanks: 2,760 Thanked 1,000 Times in 735 Posts	Eric, If you are comfortable with care and cleaning of 1911s, then you should have no problems with your Luger. They are all machines.....although some are beautiful machines!! I have a tendency to run all of my handguns fairly well lubed, and because I live in a warm climate, I do use more than just oil on the heavy friction areas(slide/frame, toggle/frame, etc.). I have been pleased with TW25b grease for a number of years now, including on subguns. I use a good quality gun oil on the less heavy friction areas like the toggle train junctions, etc. I agree with Marc about not doing extensive breakdowns after every range trip. To me, it just isn't necessary. I do keep my guns clean and lubed, but not OCD about it. I will suggest that if you are going to be shooting your Mauser that you purchase a few Mec-Gar aftermarket mags to use and save the originals. The original mags have a tendency to break the plastic bases when loaded fully. You don't want that to happen.....I assume. Stick with std. velocity quality ammo in 115-124gr FMJRN, and avoid any +P,+P+, or NATO ammo. Enjoy.

09-16-2016, 09:30 AM	#8
Tango3 User Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Michigan (Native American for "too much winter") Posts: 51 Thanks: 90 Thanked 12 Times in 10 Posts	Don, Nice to meet another clean freak. And I do, like you, enjoy the cleaning process. Very therapeutic. Not surprised to hear that new, fully loaded mags might have round feeding issues. Not uncommon with 1911s. I'll report back on tomorrow's planned range trip. Eric

09-15-2016, 10:07 PM	#10
Tango3 User Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Michigan (Native American for "too much winter") Posts: 51 Thanks: 90 Thanked 12 Times in 10 Posts	Richard, I haven't had the chance to field strip the Parabellum yet but have read and viewed YouTube videos and it looks easy. I'll let ya know, hope to find time to do it tomorrow so as to take it to the range on Saturday. "...although some are beautiful machines." Are you intimating that Ps are beautiful and 11s aren't? Just messin' wid ya. I do find my 11s beautiful ('specially my Les Baer Commanche Heavyweight Monolith) but I must say that they have a much more "industrial" beauty than the sleek beauty of the P-08. I'm surprised by the number of you who aren't anal about the meticulous cleaning of these close tolerance weapons. In the 1911 world, tightly constructed (close tolerance) means clean it carefully and frequently as opposed to a loosely fit weapon although I've run as much as 750 rounds through my tightly fitted Baer Monolith during one range trip with just occasional oil with no problems. Constant 11 forum argument between the cleanly group and the leave 'em filthy group. Since I CC my weapons, clean is how I roll. Thanks for the Mec-gar suggestion. I've purchased and received three of 'em thinking that the factory mags might have issues with those, to me, goofy plastic bases in that they might be brittle with age. Looks like these bases have pins that have to be punched out to replace them that could be a real pain in the butt. Why don't they just make them out of metal to start with. I know...cost but it's a cost I'd gladly pay. + on using 115-124 gr FMJ round nose. Since it won't be a defense pistol for me, no need to fool with hollow points. Thanks, Eric