Glue for Rifle Stock Repair???

[Ron Wood]

With Titebond III it is advisable to wipe off the "squeeze out" with a damp cloth. That makes for very little sanding to remove any that may seep into the grain. Titebond remains flexible for a considerable while, but the adhesion is, as you have found out, very good after 24 hours. It gets even stronger over time.

[sheepherder]

27 hours later, the DevCon 2-Ton Epoxy is ready to test!

First pic: Scrap wood set up in mill vise. Once again, I pulled with both hands/arms, to the point of my feet sliding on rough concrete floor...Didn't budge. I must admit, I was fairly confident it wouldn't separate.

Second pic: 12" Crescent wrench on top scrap piece...The join separated. I wasn't expecting that.

Third pic: Closeup of the scrap pieces. On the top, you can see the surfaces where the epoxy was...The wood fibers separated, not the epoxy...On the bottom, I belt sanded the squeezed-out epoxy [bottom edge of wood], just to show it was nice and hard...And sandable...

I think that will conclude my demonstration for now...I found out what I wanted to know...

I finished de-greasing & stripping the Arg Mauser stock and the wood extension, tomorrow I'll do the join on them...

[G.T.]

Yes, I spent many hours, days, and years covered in polyester resin, dust, and acetone.... I found it was best used to make parts and then repair them! When filled with micro spheres, it is almost indestructible, but thermal setting resins, like polyester, and even epoxy when used as a glue, seems to have their own issues.. one is shock issues.. you can have an incredibly strong joint, and when stuck hard, it will fracture along a resin line and simply fall off, thus the use of filler, cloth, mat, and laminations... It will work, but as I said before, I think epoxy is most often the stronger of the two.. and some exotic epoxies are incredibly strong...I do think however, the wood glues you selected will work great in this application... Talk to ya soon...til...lat'r....GT

[sheepherder]

I got the stock roughed out; metal parts fitted...

The spliced extension is OK; not great, but I can live with it...[1st pic]...

The plug where the bolt handle fits I don't like...But I don't have a large selection of hardwood to make plugs from, so this is what I've got...[2nd pic]...

What I'm wondering now is, should I stain the stock before I apply BLO to it??? The BLO will darken it a little, but this particular stock might look better dark, so the splice & plug don't show up as much...

Any thoughts on this???

[Olle]

Staining is an iffy procedure, and it's not easy to match two different pieces of wood. If you saved the scrap pieces you can try the stain and the oil to see how it changes the color.

[G.T.]

Olle is correct, matching is hard, except when you go dark.... Then, you can start light on one part, and then go dark to match... three levels of stain can be accomplished with Fibbings leather dye... light, med, dark brown... it's an aniline dye.. and has no filler, just color... then use Danish oil, natural, it works better then BLO, dries better, Good luck Rich, til...lat'r....GT

[Olle]

Originally Posted by G.T.

Olle is correct, matching is hard, except when you go dark.... Then, you can start light on one part, and then go dark to match... three levels of stain can be accomplished with Fibbings leather dye... light, med, dark brown... it's an aniline dye.. and has no filler, just color... then use Danish oil, natural, it works better then BLO, dries better, Good luck Rich, til...lat'r....GT

I like Formby's Tung Oil, it seems to penetrate the wood and give it a nice, deep shine. It dries pretty quick, but it takes many coats to build up the finish.

That dye sounds interesting. One problem with stain is that you need to get just about all the color on in the first shot, after the first coat is dry it will seal the wood and the next coat won't soak into the wood. It's difficult to correct the color if you don't get it right to begin with, so using stain might give you more leeway.

I used to work for a cabinet factory, and they used different dyes mixed with alcohol. One problem they had when matching wood pieces was the red and yellow tones, so sometimes they had to pretreat with red or yellow dye before the stain. I believe these dyes are available from, for example, Woodcraft. I have also heard of woodworkers taking the felt tips out of Sharpies, then soak them in alcohol to make dye.

[cdmech]

You can order good resorcinol from Aircraft Spruce. Well know and reputable company.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...clickkey=19859

Marc