British Paint

Orv Reichert · 03-22-2002, 05:17 PM

Does anyone know what kind of black dull paint the Brits and Aussies used to paint their rifles and pistols? The stuff is really tough!

How does one remove it, easily?

Orv Reichert

KEN · 03-22-2002, 08:38 PM

I am not sure, however I have refinished a Isapore .308 by using paint remover and wire brush, then blued rifle. It now looks very good, however its not original. ....Ken

03-22-2002, 09:03 PM

Acetone dissolved some of the paint on one of my No1Mk4's, unfortunately.

Ron Wood · 03-22-2002, 09:28 PM

Orv

I was told at one time that the finish is enamel, sort of like they used on the fenders of Model A Fords.

Lonnie Zimmerman · 03-23-2002, 12:57 PM

Yes; but very thick and baked on.

Lonnie

Marvin · 03-23-2002, 05:22 PM

Orv,

According to Ian Skennerton, the paint is a baked on enamel. The Enfield No. 2 Mk 1** I have, has this finish and the metal under the finish appears to be a phosphate finish. Most of these have the flaking paint in various areas from use. What ever the brand paint; it is tough!

Marvin

03-23-2002, 06:42 PM

I have used this procedure for many years without damaging any metal or wooden part beyond the removal of oils and moisture.

.

THIS WILL REMOVE ALL PAINT AND OIL FROM ANY AFFECTED PART (May not remove epoxy or silicone based coatings)

.

DO NOT USE ON MOST PLASTIC PARTS OR GRIPS

.

Methyl Ketone will probably remove it.

It may take some soaking, could be a week.

I place the parts, no wood or plastic, in a heavy duty

Polyethylene zip lock bag.

Cover the parts with the Methyl Ketone and squeeze out

all excess air before sealing the bag.

I then store in an aluminum pan or tray that will contain the liquid

in case of a leak.

Let this sit until the paint slides off of the surface when the bag is rubbed

against the parts.

Empty the contents into the aluminum tray and remove the remaining paint

with a tooth brush (not metal brushes )

Repeat the above soaking if needed, as often as needed, until all paint can be

brushed off

The Methyl Ketone may need replacement several times at this stage

USE PROTECTIVE GLOVES, (polyethylene or rubber)

Dry parts and oil lightly IMMEDIATELY

.

.

.

.That same procedure may be used to remove natural and artificial oils ,

from wooden grips that need repairs such as epoxy cementing splits, or

preparing old oil soaked wood stocks for glass bedding or refinishing.

THIS WILL REMOVE ALL MOISTURE FROM THE PARTS

To restore the natural moisture content to the parts before theyÃ¢??re refinishing.

They may be again sealed in polyethylene bags this time with about ten

times their weight in SPF lumber cutoffs (scraps) for a week or so, to allow

slow absorption of the moisture in the wood to prevent warping or splitting.

Parts may now remain in the open air indefinitely

ViggoG

Thor · 03-23-2002, 06:55 PM

CAUTION- MEK, Methyl Ethyl Ketone is EXTREMELY flammable- Use with Great care, good ventilation and protective eye and hand ware. Maybe not as volital as Brake CLEANER, but use this stuff too close to a spark or flame-BOOM! Very good paint remover! ~Thor~

03-23-2002, 08:06 PM

Lets thank "Thor" for his sharp memory!

I had forgotten that the materials were to be used in "OPEN AIR ONLY", No Spark Or Open Flame !!!

Not to reduce the warning, but Methyl Ketone is not quite as touchy as Methyl Ethyl Keytone, do not take a chance on the difference.

Dat ETHYL am quite a violent gal !!!

Very Volatile and violent.

ViggoG

Thor · 03-23-2002, 08:16 PM

Yep, I am glad when people tell me "Hey Thor, you forget to tell them to put their safety glasses on" It helps to help each other and protect folks. Ever see a movie entitled "Remember Charlie" about a poor chap that SURVIVED a horrible burning working at a gas plant, makes you stop and think to be careful! You just can't go back after an accident. Thor

03-23-2002, 10:27 PM

MEK is highly Flamable and Toxic. OSHA got on us continually in the Electronics Industry for using it. Works Great but be very careful.

Chuck Shoun · 03-24-2002, 07:37 PM

Orv The paint the Brits use is called "Suncorite". I don't know if it is baked on, or if it cures. As the thread says, it is tough to remove. I used a fiberglass wheel on my Dremel tool, and was able to remove the paint mechanically with no damage or abrasion to the metal. All the proofs, and inspectors marks still had paint in them, of course. I removed the paint on a No. 4 Mk 2 because it had been TFR'ed, and the paint was so thick that it weighed more than the rifle. Repainted it with Alumahyde II matt black from Brownells. After it was dry, I rubbed the paint with a paper towel dampened with BLO, and it began to look somewhat like the Suncorite. However, I did notice that Shooter's Choice would take off the paint(AlumiHyde II).

03-22-2002, 05:17 PM	#1
Orv Reichert RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SW Washington State Posts: 339 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	British Paint Does anyone know what kind of black dull paint the Brits and Aussies used to paint their rifles and pistols? The stuff is really tough! How does one remove it, easily? Orv Reichert

03-22-2002, 08:38 PM	#2
KEN User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 51 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts	Re: British Paint I am not sure, however I have refinished a Isapore .308 by using paint remover and wire brush, then blued rifle. It now looks very good, however its not original. ....Ken

03-22-2002, 09:03 PM	#3
mlm Guest Posts: n/a	Re: British Paint Acetone dissolved some of the paint on one of my No1Mk4's, unfortunately.

03-22-2002, 09:28 PM	#4
Ron Wood Moderator 2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso Posts: 7,035 Thanks: 1,106 Thanked 5,242 Times in 1,719 Posts	Re: British Paint Orv I was told at one time that the finish is enamel, sort of like they used on the fenders of Model A Fords.

03-23-2002, 12:57 PM	#5
Lonnie Zimmerman User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 523 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Re: British Paint Yes; but very thick and baked on. Lonnie

03-23-2002, 05:22 PM	#6
Marvin User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Upstate S.C. Posts: 1,132 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: British Paint Orv, According to Ian Skennerton, the paint is a baked on enamel. The Enfield No. 2 Mk 1** I have, has this finish and the metal under the finish appears to be a phosphate finish. Most of these have the flaking paint in various areas from use. What ever the brand paint; it is tough! Marvin

03-23-2002, 06:42 PM	#7
Viggo G Dereng Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Paint & Oil Removal I have used this procedure for many years without damaging any metal or wooden part beyond the removal of oils and moisture. . THIS WILL REMOVE ALL PAINT AND OIL FROM ANY AFFECTED PART (May not remove epoxy or silicone based coatings) . DO NOT USE ON MOST PLASTIC PARTS OR GRIPS . Methyl Ketone will probably remove it. It may take some soaking, could be a week. I place the parts, no wood or plastic, in a heavy duty Polyethylene zip lock bag. Cover the parts with the Methyl Ketone and squeeze out all excess air before sealing the bag. I then store in an aluminum pan or tray that will contain the liquid in case of a leak. Let this sit until the paint slides off of the surface when the bag is rubbed against the parts. Empty the contents into the aluminum tray and remove the remaining paint with a tooth brush (not metal brushes ) Repeat the above soaking if needed, as often as needed, until all paint can be brushed off The Methyl Ketone may need replacement several times at this stage USE PROTECTIVE GLOVES, (polyethylene or rubber) Dry parts and oil lightly IMMEDIATELY . . . .That same procedure may be used to remove natural and artificial oils , from wooden grips that need repairs such as epoxy cementing splits, or preparing old oil soaked wood stocks for glass bedding or refinishing. THIS WILL REMOVE ALL MOISTURE FROM THE PARTS To restore the natural moisture content to the parts before theyÃ¢??re refinishing. They may be again sealed in polyethylene bags this time with about ten times their weight in SPF lumber cutoffs (scraps) for a week or so, to allow slow absorption of the moisture in the wood to prevent warping or splitting. Parts may now remain in the open air indefinitely ViggoG

03-23-2002, 06:55 PM	#8
Thor User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico Posts: 4,583 Thanks: 958 Thanked 970 Times in 276 Posts	Re: Paint & Oil Removal-MEK CAUTION- MEK, Methyl Ethyl Ketone is EXTREMELY flammable- Use with Great care, good ventilation and protective eye and hand ware. Maybe not as volital as Brake CLEANER, but use this stuff too close to a spark or flame-BOOM! Very good paint remover! ~Thor~

03-23-2002, 08:06 PM	#9
Viggo G Dereng Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Paint & Oil Removal-MEK--"Thank You Thor !" Lets thank "Thor" for his sharp memory! I had forgotten that the materials were to be used in "OPEN AIR ONLY", No Spark Or Open Flame !!! Not to reduce the warning, but Methyl Ketone is not quite as touchy as Methyl Ethyl Keytone, do not take a chance on the difference. Dat ETHYL am quite a violent gal !!! Very Volatile and violent. ViggoG

03-23-2002, 08:16 PM	#10
Thor User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico Posts: 4,583 Thanks: 958 Thanked 970 Times in 276 Posts	Re: Paint & Oil Removal-MEK--"Thank You Thor !" Yep, I am glad when people tell me "Hey Thor, you forget to tell them to put their safety glasses on" It helps to help each other and protect folks. Ever see a movie entitled "Remember Charlie" about a poor chap that SURVIVED a horrible burning working at a gas plant, makes you stop and think to be careful! You just can't go back after an accident. Thor

03-23-2002, 10:27 PM	#11
Tracy Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Paint & Oil Removal/Safety MEK is highly Flamable and Toxic. OSHA got on us continually in the Electronics Industry for using it. Works Great but be very careful.

03-24-2002, 07:37 PM	#12
Chuck Shoun User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Brigham City, UT Posts: 30 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: British Paint Orv The paint the Brits use is called "Suncorite". I don't know if it is baked on, or if it cures. As the thread says, it is tough to remove. I used a fiberglass wheel on my Dremel tool, and was able to remove the paint mechanically with no damage or abrasion to the metal. All the proofs, and inspectors marks still had paint in them, of course. I removed the paint on a No. 4 Mk 2 because it had been TFR'ed, and the paint was so thick that it weighed more than the rifle. Repainted it with Alumahyde II matt black from Brownells. After it was dry, I rubbed the paint with a paper towel dampened with BLO, and it began to look somewhat like the Suncorite. However, I did notice that Shooter's Choice would take off the paint(AlumiHyde II).